Just asking if anyone has used this and is it any good or not?
https://www.rareelectrical.com/p-2077-ch ... -wire.aspx
Thanks,
Ken L.
https://www.rareelectrical.com/p-2077-ch ... -wire.aspx
Thanks,
Ken L.
dan filipi":2q8noymc said:I have no experience with that one but I wouldn't go with a one wire.
Mine and at least one other member here has one that has a parasitic drain of power from the battery when not running.
scdmarx":252ahgnz said:dan filipi":252ahgnz said:I have no experience with that one but I wouldn't go with a one wire.
Mine and at least one other member here has one that has a parasitic drain of power from the battery when not running.
Can you check the diodes without voiding the warranty? And what might the single wire style have to do with the defect?
The alternator at that link might be ok but without seeing it its hard to know how large it is.Ken L.":bjgiuy0e said:OK, so which alternator is recommended, smallest and lightest? With about 50 to 80 amps output.
Ken L.
Something like that should work.flash2002":1vecl8e7 said:What if you install a Blocking Diode from the alternator to the battery, would that not fix the problem of the battery drain.
Sorry I am late to the game. In marine, we have to kill all power from alternators after shutdown to prevent not only parasitic drain, but any DC voltage passing through ground unchecked can create a severe corrosion problem on boats.dan filipi":s9iwf4te said:scdmarx":s9iwf4te said:dan filipi":s9iwf4te said:I have no experience with that one but I wouldn't go with a one wire.
Mine and at least one other member here has one that has a parasitic drain of power from the battery when not running.
Can you check the diodes without voiding the warranty? And what might the single wire style have to do with the defect?
There's no way to control the field on a one wire.
With a field exciter connection power is removed when not running, when connected to the switched ignition source.
My one wire Denso is on it's second regulator. The first one suddenly started putting out 16 volts.
That one and the one I have now will kill the battery in a month if left connected.
mcgovern61":18tqdj09 said:As a result, all alternators have the field wire controlled from either a fuel pressure switch or oil pressure switch. The field than can only energize the alternator when oil or fuel pressure is available (obviously only when the engine is running). Likewise, when the engine stops and pressure is off, the field is cutoff and the alternator denergizes.
As I understand it, the one wire alternators that have been converted to a one wire (In the case of my mini Denso anyway) the regulator is changed and the old post connectors are left in place but not used.mcgovern61":2xc3rj0c said:Don't the single wire units have a post for remote sensing or ignition? It is that post that the pressure switch is hooked up to. On marine single wire alternators, the post is there but there is normally a jumper wire from the post to the positive wire. We remove the jumper and connect the pressure switch to the ign or remote sense pole so that power to the field does not come from the main lug.
Hmm, interesting.mcgovern61":1wm4g8ym said:In the one wire diagram, do you see the jumper from batt + to the sensing post? The same as the marine
alternators.
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