jerrys 82 came to visit

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Well blocked up carbs and pulled 3 bowls off. Gas was down about 8 or 9mm from top of float bowl. All 3 were consistant. Top of float was hitting top of carb, but spring in float needle seemed to compress all the way. Is the gas level in bowls right. Jerry
 
When I set floats (carbs on end leaning a little ,float just touching spring on float needle) the floats looked even fron one end to the other and checked out.. Would the 1/2mm make this big a difference in float travel. Jerry
 
I take that back, you might be ok contacting the carb body but I had a thought maybe the float is tweaked in relation to the metal mounting.
They should sit like this in the pics:

When depressing the float against the spring loaded needle valve, the float will contact the carb body before (what appears to be) the center spring loaded pin inside the needle valve is fully depressed.

image.php


This is what the float looks like in relation to the carb body when adjusted to spec, the float sits even with the carb body.
There is a slight angular appearance of the float in relation to the carb body but that's a camera angle thing going on there, they are even all the way across on both floats.

image.php
 
By the way, I don't care what anyone say's. These floats can be adjusted with the carbs upside down. Just have to hold the float at a point just touching the center pin and measure. As you can see in the 2nd picture that just so happens to be the same with weight of the float on the needle. If I were to lift the float in that picture just a hair, it would be leaving contact with the pin.
 
Well thats what i've got. With the 16mm set I think the spring in needle compress all the way just as float hits top of carb. Its the gas level that has me concerned. Jerry
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=93643#p93643:3ogdcgb0 said:
jpwinger » Thu Aug 22, 2013 10:48 am[/url]":3ogdcgb0]
Well thats what i've got. With the 16mm set I think the spring in needle compress all the way just as float hits top of carb. Its the gas level that has me concerned. Jerry
I would adjust so your within a couple MM of carb body and retest but let it sit for awhile to make sure the gas doesn't seep past the needles, which would flood over into the plenum.
 
Would I go higher (17mm) or lower (15.5mm) to raise gas level closer to top of bowl???? The difference in center pin from oem and aftermarket is the oem pin is shorter than aftermarket by about 1/3 maybe this changes float setting. Aftermarket center pin is longer so would you need to (add or,subtract) difference to speck of 15.5mm. Just reaching at this point. Jerry
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=93649#p93649:y0xwxhnb said:
jpwinger » Thu Aug 22, 2013 11:03 am[/url]":y0xwxhnb]
Would I go higher (17mm) or lower (15.5mm) to raise gas level closer to top of bowl???? The difference in center pin from oem and aftermarket is the oem pin is shorter than aftermarket by about 1/3 maybe this changes float setting. Aftermarket center pin is longer so would you need to (add or,subtract) difference to speck of 15.5mm. Just reaching at this point. Jerry
Hmm. Now I see what the problem is with these aftermarket needles.

Just adjust the float height so you get enough gas in the bowls.
I think that will be good enough but make sure the gas gets shut off and there's enough pressure on the needle to not seep gas past it.
 
Yep down to trial and error, get fuel level where it needs to be and that should be mm setting.Along with center pin spring compression. Jerry
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=93652#p93652:y2ill22x said:
jpwinger » Thu Aug 22, 2013 11:48 am[/url]":y2ill22x]
Yep down to trial and error, get fuel level where it needs to be and that should be mm setting.Along with center pin spring compression. Jerry
Yes.
I'm thinking the spring pressure could be different also which could cause other setting problems which would make sense on mine also.
Seems this might come down to finding a happy medium.
 
Had a thought too that fuel supply pressure is going to come into play here.
If the aftermarket springs are lets say stronger, it will take slightly more pressure to get the right float/gas level, the opposite with a weaker spring.
Maybe that's the other way around, I'm not sure lol.
Your test gas container pressure would affect this.

If it were me at this point I'd be looking for new OEM needles.
 
well backed up step, put oem needle back in and checked measurement it was quite different from aftermarket needle small difference in center pin height makes a lot of difference. Tried to adjust for higher fuel level. Hard to get both ends of float the same. And the range of adjustment isn't there.. I think over all height of seat and needle is key. Mixing oem seat with aftermarket needle. Got to find 1 oem needle around here. There is a co. that sells needles and seats w/small screen as a set at a good price. One size for 80&81 and then 82&83????? but said the 82&83 out of stock!!!! Only way is to throw'm back on and fire it up. Caveman style :head bang: :salute: :sensored: :Doh2: :headscratch: Jerry
 
I put carbs on this am and fired it up, and it ran great. All exahust heated up the same. No more weak cyclinders. Carbs ran smooth and didn't fight each other. I went with the aftermarket float needles and set floats to 16mm.They are different from oem.Longer center pin. It had stutter at low rpm before but not now. I took it out on hiway and ran it up to 80 or so and held it there for about a mile to check for fuel starvation at high rpm. Fuel level in carb bowls were down about 8 or 9mm and this seemed low. It held 5000 to 5500 rpm just fine with no difference. I think I have it fixed. So now to try out the new tries. Jerry
 

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