Just finished my Carb-rack rebuild with Randakks

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CC

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After 9 cans of carb-cleaner, 2 cans of WD-40 and about 20 hours of my time; I finished my carb-rack rebuild with Randakks master kit. (Kudo's to Randakk for being so exact in the parts included). Im hoping to test drive the bike on Sunday after a fuel-filter replacement and oil change. I followed "Roadies" carb-rebuild pdf which was very helpful in cutting down on my work time and making me feel like I was sure I can do this.
So my question is: Roadie says to fill the float bowls with gas using a syringe- But I assume he's talking about running a stock mechanical fuel-pump- Can't I skip this part since I've switched to an electric pump??? Thanks in advance and everyone have a nice Thanksgiving! CC

"Don't ever tread on my Constitution!!! -they don't make a body-Armour that can save you if you do!!!"
 
Electric fuel pump just wait a few seconds before hitting the start button all should be good. Once it starts you'll need to synch and set air fuel mix screws.
 
If you just want to fill the bowls I don't see why an electric pump won't work.
The mechanical pump would work too, just needs more cranking. Tip there is remove the spark plugs.
It'll turn over faster and easier on the starter.
 
yea the 1100 carb rack rebuild is a test to anyone .....I hope it works great for you ...and theres no problems ....ive got to where I could put racks on or take off in just minutes ....It certainly didn't go that way on the first one a tried ... :doh: :headscratch: :nea: :heat: :crying: :mrgreen:
 
Thanks to all for a ton of great advice! I'll take out the plugs since they need cleaning anyway from running so rich on my single carb attempt. And it would be real nice to confirm "no leaks" before install too. I'll post my results when I get her running again soon. Got a bunch of rain heading this way so it might not happen till early to mid week. I got my fuel filters, but still waiting on my air-filter to arrive. Thanks again, CC
 

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I know many guys set the rebuilt carbs level on their workbench and rig an overhead gas can to feed case to the carbs just like when remounted. Leaks are easy to find and repair before the carbs are bolted back down on the bike.
 
yep as one who has work on lots of racks it is the number one tell all about a carb rack ...the flow and stop test ....personally im glad to be away from the stock racks .....there window to operate right is small ... im so glad that the 1200 I modified took the stock rack out of the game not just one but all of them from 1000 to 1200 .....this bumped me to try the weber 2 stage ...ill never go back to stock ... it accommodates the 1200 modified motor just fine and is much more reliable ... I dont know what your single attempt was but its been all good for me ... the stock carbs do good on stock bikes and lightly modified I know I done several but 1200 mod was out of the stock racks lead ... if the stock rack dose good better use atf mix in gas 6-8oz per tank to keep it that way ... that sure worked for me and stock racks ive had go for yrs like that ...seems it only the cold that gets them to where they do really crazy things ..id say like slide sticking from the low temps and all ... i hope you got the rack in good shape and you can be ready to ride when weather is right :mrgreen:
 
I did get the rack and air-box installed. I had to remove the choke bracket to get it in there. After that it went right in and the swearing stopped. Still need to install fuel-pump, change oil and pull/clean spark-plugs. Life is intruding right now with the holidays and me still looking for work. Will post another reply with my results as soon as Im able. Im hoping by mid-week to find my windy smile again. Hope all had a great turkey-day. CC
 

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