slabghost
Well-known member
Oh my! This is moving along nicely now. I hope the weather continues to cooperate. We may get to hear this baby run this year.
MAKING A TRIKE
- Thread starter transitman
- Start date
Help Support Classic Goldwings:
nothing like a good file in smart hands .... 
opcorn:
opcorn:
It is coming along....looking good from here
Found the missing fan shroud, the problem is that it doesn't seem to fit.
in the top pic the sideways gap on the holes is 5/8 inch with the lower bolts in finger tight.
the lower picture shows the misalignment at the bottom when the top bolts are in.
Can't see how the engine can move as its bolted in so my feeling is I should remove the torque rods that are attached to the shroud and bolt them up separately.
and then try and support the fan with the shroud and find a way of fastening it.
Unless of course, someone has a better idea?
bolt the supports in if you want and throw the heat shield away ....is what id do ...it just makes the motor run hotter and makes things tight to deal with ...the fan bolts to the radiator and shroud combo not the heat sheild .....
slabghost
Well-known member
It serves no real purpose except possibly shielding your legs from a little of the heat off the radiator. Once off mine would be shelved sold or discarded.
Sounds like good advice to me, thank you both.
nothing but problems!
This is what I have for the front wheel. I bought the comstar to replace the old spoked wheel but now I am not sure I have the right bits to go with it.
First off, and no real problem, the bolts are too long
got the right speedo drive, but the dog seems wrong. The spindle doesn't seem long enough, but apparently the spacer is supposed to be there.
Any ideas, please?
hmmmmm gee you may have bake issues too ..if im not remembering wrong ....speedo drive is on wrong side ...sheesh we should have caught this in your posting ....im rather sure rotor off set might not work right or even be close enough ...im not sure here as ive never done this switch yet ...ive done about everything else but not this switch ...hooch has spoke wheel forks and brakes ...1100 rotors ...and 1200 wheel part mixing done ...
with the comstar wheel id say you need a spacer from that set up or one at that length ..to get wheel on forks as the axle is the same for both in length im sure ....past that it brake rotor off set and brakes to see if they come close to lining up .... pretty much all the areas that must line up ...gee sorry you ran into this full blast unknowing
with the comstar wheel id say you need a spacer from that set up or one at that length ..to get wheel on forks as the axle is the same for both in length im sure ....past that it brake rotor off set and brakes to see if they come close to lining up .... pretty much all the areas that must line up ...gee sorry you ran into this full blast unknowing
I was using the Haynes book which only covers the old wheel. Went indoors for the ipad with the parts manual on and all was revealed!
I was trying to fit the spindle in from the wrong side. and I also found the dog drive hidden under the grease. it's part of the Comstar.
So all I probably need is a brain reboot. My excuse is that it is cold today
I was trying to fit the spindle in from the wrong side. and I also found the dog drive hidden under the grease. it's part of the Comstar.
So all I probably need is a brain reboot. My excuse is that it is cold today
hung the radiator, fitted the wheel, this time got it right!
Looking good from here
slabghost
Well-known member
Looks great! Keep the brain thawed along with the rest of you. I always did admire greatly the radical hand built vehicles.
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Great stuff :good:
Here I have the partially assembled fork clamp and the support bracket for the mudguard, or fender, and there seems to be some interference.
Am I in roughly the right places with these? Not sure where they'd be otherwise!
Problem is I dismantled them 4 years ago and whilst I took plenty pics I obviously didn't take enough.
slabghost
Well-known member
Relax. Just install the mud guard first then the fork brace down on top of it. It should fit about flush to the tops of the fork lowers.
Ok!
And thanks
Getting a huge buzz from it now.
And thanks
Getting a huge buzz from it now.
I seem to have lost a post I thought I'd sent. As I had tried to send it from my tablet rather than laptop maybe that it is why I can't find it, or it is late and my medication has caught up with me.
Anyway, not wanting you to miss any of the goings on in my little dark shed I shall try and reconstruct it.
Big moment, this. Fixing the propshaft nose to the gearbox. Put the extension on first, which has a hole in the centre to access the splined shaft from the gearbox. Fitted the circlip through the hole, no problem, then bolted the shaft to the extension, nice and tight. The diff end of the shaft is still unconnected but only waiting for some new bolts.
This bit was probably the hardest of the engineering tasks I set myself and only accomplished with lots of help from you.
A small detail in the picture, you can just make out the exhaust pipe out of position. I knocked it doing the shaft and as it has to come out and be polished haven't bothered to refit it.
With the shaft fitted I was clear to refit the battery box and add the battery.
Then, with a sudden rush of blood to the head dropped the whole electrical harness on top.
Now over the years I've been posting you may already have gathered that of all the things I'm not very good at electrics is at the top of the list.
Spent an hour or two hoping for inspiration or a sign from above, but as none came I lifted it off again. I think I have to have some electrical things on the trike to connect up to so started on the headlights.
So, a headlight.
Not a good pic, will do better in a day or so.
Other little happenings include a nice little run out to a narrowboat marina nearby to buy a can of white coach paint. Nearly collapsed at the counter when she asked for £33 pounds (say around $50) but when I got home tried a bit on parts of the frame that have become very tired of being worked around and having heavy things dropped on them. Amazing. Must be 95% titanium oxide! Fantastic covering, and the brush marks just fell out after an hour or so.
And also fitted the little water system pipes behind the radiator. Carbs next. They are sitting in that wooden box on the left
Anyway, not wanting you to miss any of the goings on in my little dark shed I shall try and reconstruct it.
Big moment, this. Fixing the propshaft nose to the gearbox. Put the extension on first, which has a hole in the centre to access the splined shaft from the gearbox. Fitted the circlip through the hole, no problem, then bolted the shaft to the extension, nice and tight. The diff end of the shaft is still unconnected but only waiting for some new bolts.
This bit was probably the hardest of the engineering tasks I set myself and only accomplished with lots of help from you.
A small detail in the picture, you can just make out the exhaust pipe out of position. I knocked it doing the shaft and as it has to come out and be polished haven't bothered to refit it.
With the shaft fitted I was clear to refit the battery box and add the battery.
Then, with a sudden rush of blood to the head dropped the whole electrical harness on top.
Now over the years I've been posting you may already have gathered that of all the things I'm not very good at electrics is at the top of the list.
Spent an hour or two hoping for inspiration or a sign from above, but as none came I lifted it off again. I think I have to have some electrical things on the trike to connect up to so started on the headlights.
So, a headlight.
Not a good pic, will do better in a day or so.
Other little happenings include a nice little run out to a narrowboat marina nearby to buy a can of white coach paint. Nearly collapsed at the counter when she asked for £33 pounds (say around $50) but when I got home tried a bit on parts of the frame that have become very tired of being worked around and having heavy things dropped on them. Amazing. Must be 95% titanium oxide! Fantastic covering, and the brush marks just fell out after an hour or so.
And also fitted the little water system pipes behind the radiator. Carbs next. They are sitting in that wooden box on the left
slabghost
Well-known member
I'm just amazed you can get anything done in that little cave. Great work. Electrics are a royal pain at times. Take it one little step at a time and it should be much easier. With headlight in place you know the right end of the harness is forward.
carbs in place but not connected yet.
turned the trike around so took the opportunity to get an outside pic
That's the carbs just resting there, will fix them down when I'm happy I've resolved any space conflicts.
Can't place the headlights on top of the bar because on the right hand side the offset of the axle puts it out of range for the traffic regs. So will mount them on the vertical part of the bar instead. to be honest, I didn't much like the light on top, looked a bit too Noddy car for me.
Another tricky little job done was to poke the handle bar cables inside the handle bar. I have also extended them. Most of the electrical bits are finding there way back onto the trike. One small problem is the 2 relays hanging from the mostly blue cables, I know they fit next to the flasher relay but have forgotten how.
Next pic shows the home made grommets, cut down from bigger, fatter ones.
Another change of plan - I will now stick with the points ignition to save time on the build. Can always convert later.
Still have to buy new coils so any advice appreciated. I have read a lot of the older posts on coils but can't make up my mind from them. Cost isn't an issue here; got to have the right stuff.
Before getting the prop shaft connected I managed to find 6 wrong ways to fit it. One big job over.
Can't remember how these funny little square things were fitted (you can tell I'm not much of an auto electrician)
I have lost a piece to the puzzle so if anybody can help; please do!
Other things started: got one wheel stripped, and am painting it now. Decided to hand paint just in case any of the wheels fail in use, I can always powder coat the 2 good ones when I've checked them over a few miles.
Working on the rear bumper too. You'll see what I mean soon.
Thinking of ways to hold the silencer cans off the tube work, shouldn't be too hard.
Lot of the electrics connected but I've got too many unidentifiable left overs. Could be in trouble here...
but not to worry, having too much fun.
turned the trike around so took the opportunity to get an outside pic
That's the carbs just resting there, will fix them down when I'm happy I've resolved any space conflicts.
Can't place the headlights on top of the bar because on the right hand side the offset of the axle puts it out of range for the traffic regs. So will mount them on the vertical part of the bar instead. to be honest, I didn't much like the light on top, looked a bit too Noddy car for me.
Another tricky little job done was to poke the handle bar cables inside the handle bar. I have also extended them. Most of the electrical bits are finding there way back onto the trike. One small problem is the 2 relays hanging from the mostly blue cables, I know they fit next to the flasher relay but have forgotten how.
Next pic shows the home made grommets, cut down from bigger, fatter ones.
Another change of plan - I will now stick with the points ignition to save time on the build. Can always convert later.
Still have to buy new coils so any advice appreciated. I have read a lot of the older posts on coils but can't make up my mind from them. Cost isn't an issue here; got to have the right stuff.
Before getting the prop shaft connected I managed to find 6 wrong ways to fit it. One big job over.
Can't remember how these funny little square things were fitted (you can tell I'm not much of an auto electrician)
I have lost a piece to the puzzle so if anybody can help; please do!
Other things started: got one wheel stripped, and am painting it now. Decided to hand paint just in case any of the wheels fail in use, I can always powder coat the 2 good ones when I've checked them over a few miles.
Working on the rear bumper too. You'll see what I mean soon.
Thinking of ways to hold the silencer cans off the tube work, shouldn't be too hard.
Lot of the electrics connected but I've got too many unidentifiable left overs. Could be in trouble here...
but not to worry, having too much fun.
