My build (another one)

[joedrum]

hmmmm i have no experience with this exactlly ..but from your words of 99% gone ..id say your into carving zone ...you be surprise what a sharp pointer can do and one blunded a bit to have a pull back edge to it ..on soft stuff like this it works well ..might be of some good to you

 

[slabghost]

Sounds to me like you really have two choices. Powder coat the old emblems. Or machine new emblems from stronger material.

 

[ianstaley]

slabghost » Thu Sep 03, 2015 7:16 pm[/url]":22f9smm7]
Sounds to me like you really have two choices. Powder coat the old emblems. Or machine new emblems from stronger material.

Actually V had given that much thought, I wonder what it would cost. I will check this out this week. Thanks V

 

[slabghost]

Actually with a variable speed router and some carbide wood bits you can probably machine them yourself.

 

[CRAFTMAN6001]

ianstaley » Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:15 am[/url]":2ev6f2nk]

Denver » Wed Aug 19, 2015 12:26 am[/url]":2ev6f2nk]
Soldering iron will weld, melt it back together, :good: then fill in the seam with your bonding compound, for stronger & nicer job than a glue that wont hold at the core of the repair. oh2:

Hi that rapidfix is really great stuff, I have used it for filling and repairing Plastics, Fibre Glass, even ceramics it is quality stuff. I will show you the repair later as I am busy with it and will carry on after lucnh, I have just sanded it down and filled the low spots with body finishing past as it only needs about a 1/2 mm to fill.

Go here

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSmgEkbp5eM[/video]

Ian

WOW NICE Thanks for sharing :hi:

 

[ianstaley]

This is serious stuff, I always use it with the powder, as it makes a great bond. I have filled holes in a faring from an Aprillia Falco where it vibrates a lot at the bottom, I filled the hole completely using a bot of masking tape behind it, cut a small round of ally grill about the size of a dollar, and started to use it and build. Inside of ten minutes it was solid, I then drilled it for the new mounting bolt it is still on there a year down the line.

 

[ianstaley]

Just a quick update, so in between rubbing the fake tank covers down ready for sealing then undercoating read for the first part of paint in candy black as base coat for the Cherry Black candy, I have taken the springs off the rear shocks, I think it is easy to say that the shocks or dampers are truly gone to the big scrap yard in the sky, well in this state anyway. I can move the damper rod up and down with 1 finger and no resistance. So Koni's or not they are screwed. So now the problem they can be rebuilt as yet I don't know how much, but I would like the springs chromed instead of just black, so that is anther factor to take into account.

The springs are OK but a little rusty nothing that a blaster wouldn't fix in about 10 seconds, so now comes the problem, do I replace or repair (they can be) and chrome the springs (maybe expensive). I have some other stuff I want chroming, Timing belt covers, Cylinder head rocker covers, Carburettor manifolds for the Webber's, I am considering the stanchion covers off the forks as well.

But now I need to do something about the pitting on the fork stanchions themselves, here I have two choices, 1) re-chrome them or 2) new ones. Now I know that new ones from Honda don't exist or at least I don't know where, but here in the UK there is a company that will sell you a new one for £112 each and NEW. here https://www.brooksuspension.co.uk/honda- ... 77-79.html Now I think that is CHEAP for a pair of new Forks, or at the same company to have mine re-chromed £140 a PAIR, go here for a description. https://www.brooksuspension.co.uk/motorc ... -legs.html

I am also busy with the triple tree, the bottom is a very bad casting, I guess what you don't see? but I do see it and I know how crap it is, so I have been busy grinding it smoothish and I was going to paint the top and bottom tree in the Ivory colour I have. So once all the paint is to the same point I.E. ready to take the clear, I will do the lot at the same time. The final drive is ready for clear and I am going to clear the front brake callipers, I have some VHT Clear that is heat resistant up to 500 deg C or 932 deg F. how long for that is another question but either way being out front in the wind under normal conditions the wont ever get to 500 unless I use a blow torch on them.

Okay so that's it for now, will get back later.

 

[slabghost]

While new isn't always better. For your show quality build . I suggest new shocks and stanchions. Cost difference seems minimal to me.

 

[ianstaley]

So the weather has been against me as I have to paint outside, but today started off wettish and dried out so by about 17:30 it was sort of okay to paint. Got the kit out and the panels and two quick coats shot over the grey undercoat in pearl black 1K paint. But I added some extra red pearls to the paint, not immediately visible but if you look carefully you can see it on the corners where the light falls and is reflected.

Bear in mind this is the first coat of the base. When it is dry I will be rubbing it down and get it smoothed out a bit (I am not a painter just amateur), then I will shoot one more base coat. I just haven't decided if I want graphics on it or not. But should be a good base for ghost graphics though.

enjoy.

So hope you like the small progress, the front and rear brake callipers are rebuilt and await the final build. The Forks, in a previous post I was looking at either a re-chrome or a OEM new buy. Well today I have put the forks on a pair of engineers V blocks and using my mitutoyo dial indicator the very slight wear scratches although viable in the shine show a run-out of less than 0.001 of a mm on both legs, so I think I will go for a re-chrome. What they will do is grind off a small amount off the leg to get rid of the pitting (quite small) then re-chrome with a hard chrome to just oversize, then re-grind to size.

I have thought about chroming the fork outer bottoms, the tops of all the forks I have here (3,sets) are damaged where some numb nut has belted them with a hammer. So I will file the tops flat before I do anything. My only concern is the seal groves inside and the axle holders at the bottom. So I need to go over to the chromer and have a talk. Just need two or three days of good weather so I can get the compressor over to the garage and get the motor outside and blast the engine, I have taped off every hole and thread that is open. That job has been waiting now for two weeks. So once blasted I can get it painted and the covers off that need either chrome or contrasting paint.

Okay catch you later..

 

[joedrum]

seems great to me ....nothing like hand rub out finish ... opcorn:

 

[ianstaley]

Thanks Joe, I always appreciate your input no matter how short, in fact the shorter the better in your case, it is the reliable way to know if your doing it right. :thanks:

 

[Ansimp]

Nice work Ian :good:

 

[slabghost]

I'm no professional either but I managed a paint shop for a couple years. Looks good to me. If you can catch it at the right moment of drying you can rub the paint smooth with a gentle rubdown and a dry soft cloth. Too early it will stick and smudge. Too late it will have almost no effect. Finding the right timing differs though with the type of paint. Thickness of the application. Ambient air temperature. This can save you a lot of time or cost you. Try it at your own risk.
I'm interested to see how the motor turns out.

 

[ianstaley]

slabghost » Mon Sep 21, 2015 10:46 pm[/url]":3t0vhjqd]
I'm no professional either but I managed a paint shop for a couple years. Looks good to me. If you can catch it at the right moment of drying you can rub the paint smooth with a gentle rubdown and a dry soft cloth. Too early it will stick and smudge. Too late it will have almost no effect. Finding the right timing differs though with the type of paint. Thickness of the application. Ambient air temperature. This can save you a lot of time or cost you. Try it at your own risk.
I'm interested to see how the motor turns out.

I won't try that thanks V, too much down the old school road that and more skill than I have or will have (not that many years left in the old dog), but I will leave it for a day or so to harden off a bit. That's always been my down fall not leaving it long enough to dry. I know that putting it down wet is best but I always get runs. So this time one layer at a time.

But I am encouraged :thanks: guy's.

 

[ianstaley]

So weather has been good to me for last few days, but the paint gun I am using is crap, so dipped into the wallet and got me a new twin set of Devilbiss 802342 StartingLine Spray Gun Kit, Two guns, a full sized one and a smaller mini repair gun. also a second fluid pin and air head to go to 1.8 opening. £98 for the states, cant get that here, not at that price (see pictures), so I hope I got a good starter gun. So I now have a bout 5 cheapo's that I need to get shot off.

You can see what sort of result I have had up to know, that is the last of my Black Pearl paint, looks mottled and believe it or not spent two hours last night gently flattening the paint on just two panels, one and the other short. At a distance they look reasonable but when you get up close, I have seen smother oranges, I think I am spray the paint on to dry (not enough thinner) But I need a quick flash off because I am doing it outside. So hoping the better gun(s) will help me to raise my game a bit by being more consistent.

Okay so take a look...

 

[julimike54]

I hope you have better luck painting than I do, it's like I have 2 left hands when it comes to spray painting (by the way I'm right handed

 

[ianstaley]

Yes me too, but it is like everything we do, not many of us are a skilled and trained whatever. Me I sat on my backside after the Army, come to think of it I sat on my butt there too (tanky) and after the Army went in to the Computer industry, where I sat on my butt for the next 35 years interspersed with the odd walk into the computer room. So almost all I have learnt was either as an apprentice tool maker(my first job from school), hence my love of metal, wood work taught my self, turning wood just an extension of turning metal. Mechanics, comes from my dad he was a Automotive engineer, welding sort of self taught, paint spraying same. I am a great believer in the best school is the school of practical knocks. I might take longer to do a job, but I am one for doing it right. or at least trying to do it right.
:beg: :BigGrin:

 

[Denver]

Have ALWAYS had a problem with the finishing, :blush: painting, wood finishes, all those sort of things took too much time, didn't feel like it was worth my while. :roll: Building was so much more fun, & rewarding, arty: so never got very good at finish work. :nea: My paint may not have any runs, but seems to always have orange peel if you look close. :sensored:

 

[Dusterdude]

Painting is easy,its the prep thats difficult

 

[joedrum]

well a dumb trigger finger can hurt you LOL...ive not painted a bike im so sick of finishing wood ...it would take a gun to get me to do it i think...but yes prep is everything in wood too