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As far as single carbs go I think I am to the point of trying a single 2 brl carb.
Captain Midnight85 on the Steve Saunders site, recommends the Weber 32DFT,
It is a 32mm both brl's, progressive two barrel carb, on a type IV manifold
He has a video of it running I will get a link to this vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... 3Bhhm_sDGQ
Maybe he will ring in and talk about it.
Captain Midnight85 on the Steve Saunders site, recommends the Weber 32DFT,
It is a 32mm both brl's, progressive two barrel carb, on a type IV manifold
He has a video of it running I will get a link to this vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... 3Bhhm_sDGQ
Maybe he will ring in and talk about it.
That Burman650 has some Progressive 412 Rear shocks for a 86' Goldwing GL1200, Moddified to Mount them, and front suspension has been reworked with different springs and fork oil along with drilled fork dampeners for a More comfortable and a sportier ride.
It rides as comfortably as any of my Goldwings.
It rides as comfortably as any of my Goldwings.
I think this is the third time that I had a hydro lock situation.
It was my fault, as i forgot to turn off the fuel valve, again.
I dont mind if it has 20 H.P. less, I just want easy starting, no hydro lock/fuel all over the floor. Just want to go out push the starter and go.
Ya i know its a 30 year old bike, I have gone through just about everything, is rebuilt/replaced, carbs are my only real issue, today with the bike
My Oem carbs ran excellent, right before the hydrolock, just getting tired of F-ing with them to keep them running excellent.
It was my fault, as i forgot to turn off the fuel valve, again.
I dont mind if it has 20 H.P. less, I just want easy starting, no hydro lock/fuel all over the floor. Just want to go out push the starter and go.
Ya i know its a 30 year old bike, I have gone through just about everything, is rebuilt/replaced, carbs are my only real issue, today with the bike
My Oem carbs ran excellent, right before the hydrolock, just getting tired of F-ing with them to keep them running excellent.
Finally got the GoldWing running.. not the easiest bike to work on but at least it doesn't require computer diagnostics to figure out its problems.. points and condensors converted to modern electronic ignition, thanks to DYNA.
New tires, brake pads/lines, new front master brake cylinder, brake performance still is to be desired..
Repainted side bags, body panels and tank covers, almost look like a decent bike:
Almost look like a modern "bagger":
New tires, brake pads/lines, new front master brake cylinder, brake performance still is to be desired..
Repainted side bags, body panels and tank covers, almost look like a decent bike:
Almost look like a modern "bagger":
78-79 are nice looking bikes...great job
That don't look nothing like the bike you started with, you did a great job bringing her back to like. Congrats.
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- 1981 GL1100 “Rats Nest”
1998 GL1500c Val
1987 CBR1000f “The Pig”
1991 CBR1000f Red
Very nice job :good:
:clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:
Nice work!
Nice work!
I rode it for about 35 miles today, left cylinder heads started to smoke when I sat waiting for the light to turn green, maybe having the bike leaned on the sidestand for ages collected oil in the left cylinders.
Is it normal to have engine spewing coolant and oil... seems to be coming from the vent hose... maybe overfilled when I changed all the fluids?
Is it normal to have engine spewing coolant and oil... seems to be coming from the vent hose... maybe overfilled when I changed all the fluids?
- Joined
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- Van Nuys Ca.
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- 1983 Interstate
2018 KLR 650
2018 BMW S1000 RR
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- https://classicgoldwings.com/forums/dan-filipi.122/
Sounds like a water pump problem, letting coolant get in the crankcase. Either a bad pump bearing or seals.
I wouldn't run it any longer like this.
Water in the oil will ruin main bearings quick.
Drain the oil. It probably looks like chocolate milk and overfilled.
Check the water pump for bearing play by removing the lower hose fitting.
I wouldn't run it any longer like this.
Water in the oil will ruin main bearings quick.
Drain the oil. It probably looks like chocolate milk and overfilled.
Check the water pump for bearing play by removing the lower hose fitting.
Sorry i wasn't clear about the coolant problem. Coolant isn't in the oil, just near the crank vent hose and dripping from the brake side of the bike just under the faux tank cover.
I looked into it, seems that my coolant reservoir has small cracks due to dry rot.. the cap nearly fell apart when I tried to unscrew it from the bottle.
looks like I'll be looking for a replacement bottle on eBay.
Rode another 35 miles this morning, engine temp holds steady in range, not overheating.
Cold start was ok with full choke, just the crankcase sounds like a bag of rocks at low idle...
I looked into it, seems that my coolant reservoir has small cracks due to dry rot.. the cap nearly fell apart when I tried to unscrew it from the bottle.
looks like I'll be looking for a replacement bottle on eBay.
Rode another 35 miles this morning, engine temp holds steady in range, not overheating.
Cold start was ok with full choke, just the crankcase sounds like a bag of rocks at low idle...
hopefully unsmooth carbs and primary chain trauma from it
