Odd front brake on 83 interstate

[dafox999]

Gang,

I inherited my dad's '83 a few years ago. The front brake was always hard to pull and barely slowed the bike. While it was in the shop for other items, I asked them to rebuild the caliper and master. The first time I got it back, it lasted 4 miles and the caliper had smoke rolling off it. It wasn't really working that well anyway. So, they trailer'd it back and said they replaced the caliper with a rebuilt. For the record, I've learned this shop is not very good, so I don't trust anything they say.

So, now it's the opposite. I can pull the handle all the way to the handlebar until it bottoms out. It works a little better, but not great. I bled it .. no dice. Then thought maybe the hose is old and expanding when I'm pulling, but it looks new and I can't feel any change in it when I pull hard on the handle. Pretty sure they replaced it. So, now wonder if:

A. Front brakes just aren't that great on these bikes
B. I need to rebuild master cylinder .. maybe fluid sneaking by piston?
C. Re-rebuild caliper because I don't trust the shop.

Thoughts?

 

[brianinpa]

If I am not wrong, the 83 and newer have linked brakes where one peddle operated both the rear caliper and one front brake, so I wonder if you might not be dealing with problems with the rear also.. As far as the front brakes not being great... Bull! I only use my rear brakes sparingly and have no problems with the front brakes.

 

[dan filipi]

81 front brakes are better than 83's because they engage both disks. 83 with the linked brakes, front brake engages just the one left.
At least that's what I've noticed having riden both.

 

[joedrum]

your close to right ...83 have only one brake that works from bar ...it has linked brakes meaning the other front brake is operated by the foot brake ,,and its a combo of fron and back brake working together ...and yes the brakes are just not that good to todays standard plus there 30yrs old ... brakes probably need to be bought up to par sometimes this take a lot of effort to get them going good ..

 

[dafox999]

Exactly ... bar works on front left. Foot does front right and back. Foot works pretty good (not great by today's standards) and hand works, but is not good. And, I think you just shouldn't be able to pull it until it bottoms out at the bar.

 

[mcgovern61]

dafox999 » Mon Sep 23, 2013 2:35 pm[/url]":2tvlr8eu]
Exactly ... bar works on front left. Foot does front right and back. Foot works pretty good (not great by today's standards) and hand works, but is not good. And, I think you just shouldn't be able to pull it until it bottoms out at the bar.

The front brake was bled wrong (common on these bikes with the two piston calipers) especially for mechanics without Classic Goldwing experience.

 

[dafox999]

I've got the 1980 - 1983 Goldwing shop manual. It has a very standard simple procedure ... put a hose on the valve, put the other end in some fluid, open the valve, pull the handle within 15 mm of the handlebar, close the valve. Keep doing until all air is gone.

Help a brutha out ... is there something else/tricky I should be doing to bleed this?

 

[Ansimp]

dan filipi » Tue Sep 24, 2013 5:14 am[/url]":24h0beng]
81 front brakes are better than 83's because they engage both disks. 83 with the linked brakes, front brake engages just the one left.
At least that's what I've noticed having riden both.

82 is the preferred set up as they are multi pot callipers and work better than the 81s even though I still love the Rats Nest :lust:

 

[brianinpa]

dafox999 » Mon Sep 23, 2013 4:39 pm[/url]":1gmxtagp]
I've got the 1980 - 1983 Goldwing shop manual. It has a very standard simple procedure ... put a hose on the valve, put the other end in some fluid, open the valve, pull the handle within 15 mm of the handlebar, close the valve. Keep doing until all air is gone.

Help a brutha out ... is there something else/tricky I should be doing to bleed this?

I don't want to steal Gerry's thunder, but, read post # 2... https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=6647&p=95588&hilit=c+clamp#p95588

 

[The Wolf]

I had same problem with my brakes, I got a 83 Interstate. If the front caliper was rebuilt your problem might still be the flex brake line.. G to a hydraulic shop and they can build a new SS brake line in about 30 minutes, and that will fix a bad brake. Bleeding the line was a real pain and I had to finally add fuild into the banjo fitting at the master cylinder using a small tube-squirt a little and slowly the air kept coming out. I just couldn't get the air out the normal way by opening the bleed valve. Once it was bleed good my brake handle was tight with only about 1/2 inch travel. Brake are damn good now.. I also replaced the other 2 flex brake lines, if you doing one might as well do them all.

 

[dafox999]

OK .. thanks a ton guys. It absolutely feels like air in the system, and am now convinced it is. Will get on it this weekend (if not camping).

 

[KYWinger]

I have an '83 Interstate - same issues.

I replaced the lines (all 3 ) with S/S, added EBC pads and noticed an improvement.

What REALLY helped, however, was proper bleeding. Yup.
1) top off the front master cylinder, pump like crazy and TIE IT DOWN.
2) top off the rear master cylinder, pump like crazy and hold it down with a brick, or whatever, and leave it overnight.

I was going crazy with my MitiVac - without success, until I tried this procedure. (Thanks Brian and Gerry) :clapping:

:music: It really does work! :music:

 

[dafox999]

Hey KY ... so, by TIE IT DOWN .. does that mean, pull the handle, tie it pulled and leave it? Same with the foot break? Leave it with the bleeder valve open or closed over night?

I'm leaning towards this before I pull the calipers, and clamp them.

These are the nuttiest bleeding efforts I've ever seen! I've probably bled 100 car systems and have never run into these things.

Thanks again for all the help!

 

[AApple]

What REALLY helped, however, was proper bleeding. Yup.
1) top off the front master cylinder, pump like crazy and TIE IT DOWN.
2) top off the rear master cylinder, pump like crazy and hold it down with a brick, or whatever, and leave it overnight.

I was going crazy with my MitiVac - without success, until I tried this procedure. (Thanks Brian and Gerry) :clapping:

:music: It really does work! :music: [/color][/i]

+1 on this method! :clapping: :good: Works on mine every time. I use a screwdriver wedged from the rear pedal to the bottom of the fuel pump to hold the rear down. I can pump/bleed on that sumbeech for an hour, and still have a mooshy pedal. Cram the screwdriver in it, let it sit overnight, and presto-chango, solid pedal!
Worked on one of the Cads, too, after replacing the pads/rotors, and letting one of the pistons pop out of the caliper. Couldn't get it bled, even with my pressure bleeder. Stuck a 2x4 between the pedal and the seat overnight, and solved the problem. :clapping:

pull the handle, tie it pulled and leave it? Same with the foot break? Leave it with the bleeder valve open or closed over night?

Bleeders all closed. Pull the front brake handle tight, and use a tie-wrap, hose clamp, whatever you got, to hold it pulled. :good:

 

[KYWinger]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^what he said! it REALLY does work :clapping:

 

[dafox999]

Wow .. OK, well, here goes. What an easy fix. I did pump 1/2 can of fluid through it bleeding it the normal way. Foot brake feels pretty good, but might was well do both.

On a side note, I'll buy a beer for anyone who can tell us what the heck is going on here. If there is air in the system before this procedure, I gotta wonder how it gets out with the bleeders closed. Where does it go?

Oh well .. whatever works.

Thanks .. will let you know.

 

[brianinpa]

dafox999 » Wed Sep 25, 2013 11:44 am[/url]":38ylbutb]
Hey KY ... so, by TIE IT DOWN .. does that mean, pull the handle, tie it pulled and leave it? Same with the foot break? Leave it with the bleeder valve open or closed over night?

I'm leaning towards this before I pull the calipers, and clamp them.

These are the nuttiest bleeding efforts I've ever seen! I've probably bled 100 car systems and have never run into these things.

Thanks again for all the help!

The res has a small return port in it (both of them actually) and by keeping the lever tied up applied, it allows the air in the system to return to the res.

 

[KYWinger]

I quit drinkin' so you can buy the beer for Brian..... :beer:

 

[AApple]

If there is air in the system before this procedure, I gotta wonder how it gets out with the bleeders closed. Where does it go?

It's no real secret....it goes the same place all of yer missing socks go..... :headscratch:

:smilie_happy:

 

[Steve83]

I read somewhere, long ago, that tiny amounts of air in a brake system are gradually absorbed into the fluid when it's under pressure. Under normal driving, the time the system is pressurized is minimal, so it takes quite a while. Pressurizing it overnight greatly speeds up the process.

It's cool, Brian can keep the beer!