OEM fan switch fix (and other options)

[larryc]

I've thought about the metro switch. I think I'll try one of the older ones I have on other engine. I have 2 GL1000 engines and an 1100 engine.

 

[Retroyz]

the nice thing about the retrofit switch is that is is the sensor end is solid brass - shouldn't ever fail from coolant leaking into it. I will report back to this topic after I get mine set up and get some miles on.

 

[larryc]

Sounds good. I'd like to know how it does.

 

[danf]

Yes the geo metro fan switch works really nicely, I have had the one I made on the bike now for a very long time and it has never failed to kick the fan on, I made that direct plugin one which is really pretty simple to do.. I just needed an excuse to play around with my JB Weld some more that's all..

 

[patbrandon1]

Thanks Beaver, what type of Locktite did you use? When I do this to mind I just wonder if a light coat of anti seize compound inside would keep things from corroding again. Just a thought. I will be careful not to get them on the threads as to have it come apart.

 

[danf]

I think it was the red locktight.. I did hit my head a little while back and now I can't remember anything.. :shock: Wait, when did I hit my head again? oh crap.. :smilie_happy: it was the red.. :clapping:

 

[toytender01]

Your Head or the lock tite :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

 

[danf]

Hey.... your good, My head don't ya know...How about that...

 

[Retroyz]

Just make sure it the switch you use is for a xfi Metro. The xfi model was a higher performance Geo Metro and had a heat range closer to what the GL1100 range.

 

[patbrandon1]

Hey.... your good, My head don't ya know...How about that...

I hit my head during the cleaning, and red Locktite came out.

 

[danf]

Hey maybe it was blue I do not recall...

 

[mcgovern61]

Hey.... your good, My head don't ya know...How about that...

I hit my head during the cleaning, and red Locktite came out.

:smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

 

[danf]

Here's a photo of the pigtail connector for the geo fan switch, the fan switch in the photo was not the correct temp, I got it when I was at the junk yard just to test it, it comes on right at half way, oh it works, but the one I have is perfect and I believe it's the 216 degree one, it kicks on about 5/8 on the gauage which is perfect in my opinion because the only time it goes up that high is in hot temperture days and sitting in traffic.. The other may run too often for me..

1006 81110e1699dd1b99a08922705e2b03d4

• littlebeaver
• Nov 30, 2012

1006 b934a501939206698fc3edfd31409197

• littlebeaver
• Nov 30, 2012

 

[Retroyz]

Getting the plug from a geo was also my plan, but there wasn't any metros at the local junk yards. The nice thing about splicing in the pigtail is if the new fan swtich ever did go out, you could easily replace it, but you may not ever need to do that. Right now i still have a manual switch, but plan to install a new fan switch soon (TS270), where I will splice in a plug connection. I was waiting for a time when I need to drain the coolant but probably should just do it.

How do you know when the fan comes on when you are cruising down the highway?

 

[danf]

When you're cruising down the highway the fan should never come on.. But it can and it will on very hot days...But usually mine never kicks on going down the road..

 

[Retroyz]

True, it should mostly come on in stop and go traffic, in which case you would hear or feel it.

 

[danf]

I have played around quite a bit with different fan switches [experimenting], from oem one's to different temp. geo type switches, if someone wants a aftermarket fan switch like for a geo type, I would get the 216 degree one. 18mm thread 1.5 pitch

 

[83gl1200]

I realize this is a very old thread but just "fixed" my switch and had something to add to this thread, I think.
When I took mine apart it was clean inside, I didn't see anything to poke or soak and try to clean up yet it still didn't work.
I put it back together without cleaning or doing anything to it and tried it again in boiling water. Still nothing after minutes in water on a high boil... Then just to see what would happen I held it to the open flame on my stove. I heard it click in almost no time. Cycled it a couple of times that way then tried boiling water again. Now it works in boiling water after a minute or so, like it should.
I think it may be an easy test to see if a switch is salvageable to hit it with a flame, or for those that just can't get theirs apart like I almost couldn't, maybe you can get it working again without having to take it apart.

I may just use it as is for a while to see how long it keeps working before taking it apart and oiling it or soaking in carb cleaner. Getting it moving again with just flame may not last too long or work if yours is nasty inside, but it did work for me...for now...

Also if you can't get yours apart or dont have the right tools, this worked for me, using regular large vice grips to bite down on regular needle nose pliers.

 

[dan filipi]

Certainly worth a try.

 

[slabghost]

Nice trick if it continues to work. Still if I got one open I'd most likely put in some dielectric grease. Just in hopes it would keep it working.