OEM fan switch fix (and other options)

[Retroyz]

True there are two switches that work. I ordered one from rockauto not knowing there were two temp ranges. I now realize got the lower temp range one (212F) - it was only $7. I rode it for the first time today with the new switch and the fan kicked in with the temp guage needle only about 1/3 way up. Sounds more like it should be straigh up before the fan turns on. The switch I got is for the 1994 1.0L 3 cyl Geo Metro, the higher temp (216F) switch is for the 1.3L 4 cyl metro but is $30. I am going to do observe the fan running frequency more before I decide whether to get the 216F switch.

Will 4 degrees make much difference?

 

[danf]

Yes it will, If you want the fan to constantly run in the summer, stick with the 212 ..The 216 degree one I have kicks the fan on everytime a little over the halfway point 5/8 to be precise...I'm glad someone is posting their findings...good luck..

 

[54Greybeard]

I know 4 degrees won't make much of a difference, and don't wanna run the fan needlessly but can't help but think the cooler the better. I'm guessing fans are a lot easier to replace than head gaskets

 

[danf]

I know 4 degrees won't make much of a difference, and don't wanna run the fan needlessly but can't help but think the cooler the better. I'm guessing fans are a lot easier to replace than head gaskets

People should do as they wish... :salute:

 

[danf]

Dan do you still have that exterior type fan switch you fastened to the radiator fins that adjustable..?? Or something like that.... I forgot it's been so long.. I remember you posting it on the Sanders site few years ago..Or was it someone else I'm thinking of...

 

[dan filipi]

Dan do you still have that exterior type fan switch you fastened to the radiator fins that adjustable..?? Or something like that.... I forgot it's been so long.. I remember you posting it on the Sanders site few years ago..Or was it someone else I'm thinking of...

Yes I still have that adjustable switch.

 

[danf]

I know 4 degrees won't make much of a difference, and don't wanna run the fan needlessly but can't help but think the cooler the better. I'm guessing fans are a lot easier to replace than head gaskets

Head gaskets, what are you talking about...??? If the engine doesn't go above 216 hows it going to overheat?...The oem one is ranged at 216 as well max..??? I say Uncle...

 

[Retroyz]

I don't think cooler is always better. A well designed motor has an optimum running temperature. Also consider that if your fan is running all the time that your generator will wear out faster - from what I gather not an easy job to replace.

My temp never got over 1/3 riding with my new (212 F) switch over the weekend. I thought I would change to the higher 216 degree F switch, however, I just looked and the only place I could find that differentiates an optional 216 degree F fan switch for a 1.3 L Geo Metro is AutoZone, and they are out of stock for that specific part. It's looking more & more like OEM is the only way to go if you want a properly operating fan switch. Darn - I already changed the connector, and I like the geo metro unit because is sealed on the coolant side so it should last a long time. Does anybody have any other findings for a temp switch in the right heat range?

 

[BigDub]

Spoiler alert!

I don't really know what happened. but, my fan stays on all the time with the key in the one position.
What i did was:
i tried one final time to fix my switch y doing the scrape and ended up cooking out the wax and anything else in the cap(in my 2nd and final rebuildable dead fan switch.) So, I'm thinking the unplugging plugging loosened a corroded connection in the connecting plug. or maybe it's just a short in the wiring finally got bent in the right place to make contact.

I tried to order this "italian" after market replacement from a guy on ebay in hickory, NC but the one that shipped was too small on the threads to fit the threads in the thermostat housing. I thought about trying to step it up to match with something from Ace hardware but didn't wanna run the risk of jacking-up my thermostat housing threads. So, I'm back to looking at ordering OEM.

Question: "why not seal the new factory plug by a quick dip in high heat clear coat or RTV sealer in that tiny groove?"

would that not give the unit a longer useful life?

 

[danf]

I don't think cooler is always better. A well designed motor has an optimum running temperature. Also consider that if your fan is running all the time that your generator will wear out faster - from what I gather not an easy job to replace.

My temp never got over 1/3 riding with my new (212 F) switch over the weekend. I thought I would change to the higher 216 degree F switch, however, I just looked and the only place I could find that differentiates an optional 216 degree F fan switch for a 1.3 L Geo Metro is AutoZone, and they are out of stock for that specific part. It's looking more & more like OEM is the only way to go if you want a properly operating fan switch. Darn - I already changed the connector, and I like the geo metro unit because is sealed on the coolant side so it should last a long time. Does anybody have any other findings for a temp switch in the right heat range?

Yes, you will find that most auto parts stores will be out of them, you have to order it, it usually takes a fews for them to get it..I like it too..

 

[danf]

Spoiler alert!

I don't really know what happened. but, my fan stays on all the time with the key in the one position.
What i did was:
i tried one final time to fix my switch y doing the scrape and ended up cooking out the wax and anything else in the cap(in my 2nd and final rebuildable dead fan switch.) So, I'm thinking the unplugging plugging loosened a corroded connection in the connecting plug. or maybe it's just a short in the wiring finally got bent in the right place to make contact.

I tried to order this "italian" after market replacement from a guy on ebay in hickory, NC but the one that shipped was too small on the threads to fit the threads in the thermostat housing. I thought about trying to step it up to match with something from Ace hardware but didn't wanna run the risk of jacking-up my thermostat housing threads. So, I'm back to looking at ordering OEM.

Question: "why not seal the new factory plug by a quick dip in high heat clear coat or RTV sealer in that tiny groove?"

would that not give the unit a longer useful life?

You could always just mail it to me...Send a pm and I'll give you my address..

 

[BigDub]

stumbled my way into a permanent "on" for the fan. in sacramento in the summer, there could be worse things. so here's what i figured out. there were two switches. One was from a 1981 the other from a 1980.

One had a shorter pin than the other. So, I must have put the longer pin back in the switch that was supposed to have the shorter. thus, constant "on."

now all, i need is to wire in a simple on off switch into that circuit, I'm pretty sure I have one of those around somewhere or I can get on from the local truck stop.

Also, for those of us with totally irreparable switches, all you have to do is cut to length and insert nail that is the same size as the pin but basically make it like 1/4" longer or whatever length is needed to constantly push the switch when it's all screwed back together. that should save the cost of the new fan temp switch and if you wanna go with control of the fan just add a 3 dollar switch from any hardware store.

Savings about 30 bucks!

 

[danf]

A toggle switch or any of switch can be used, it's true , i've seen it for myself... That little switch is gonna be busy in the summer months...Lot's of guys have them..State of the art..there.... :smilie_happy: :swoon:

 

[joedrum]

i like the the switch myself along with no thermostat either :mrgreen:

 

[danf]

Well, that's great Joe, you removed your thermostat and you use a toggle, and you like it like that,, all I will say to that is Do as you wish...My switch comes on when it's supposed to and kicks off when its supposed to automaticly the way it's supposed to..You silly rabbit.. :smilie_happy: to each there own..You and Big dub should get together and have a switch party... :smilie_happy:

 

[joedrum]

:Egyptian: :Egyptian: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: arty: :mrgreen:

 

[danf]

Joe, I'm glad you found that funny...Glad you are feeling better too...

 

[dan filipi]

Switch party :smilie_happy:

Yes by far the cheapest option but for me for less than $30 an adjustable is the way to go.
With the tstat in place you get the best all around, it will warm up to where it should then it can be adjusted to keep temp right at the bottom.

 

[danf]

Switch party :smilie_happy:

Yes by far the cheapest option but for me for less than $30 an adjustable is the way to go.
With the tstat in place you get the best all around, it will warm up to where it should then it can be adjusted to keep temp right at the bottom.

Dan has had this on his bike for some time now, I remember asking him about it way back when..I think he likes keeping it a secret or something...Dan can you tell more of this magical switch you have, I have seen no post of this yet... I'm sure their are lots of folks wanting to learn more about it..

 

[dan filipi]

Switch party :smilie_happy:

Yes by far the cheapest option but for me for less than $30 an adjustable is the way to go.
With the tstat in place you get the best all around, it will warm up to where it should then it can be adjusted to keep temp right at the bottom.

Dan has had this on his bike for some time now, I remember asking him about it way back when..I think he likes keeping it a secret or something...Dan can you tell more of this magical switch you have, I have seen no post of this yet... I'm sure their are lots of folks wanting to learn more about it..

This is what I'm talking about

You wire it inline with the fan switch and mount the temperature bulb to the radiator with the supplied kit and there ya go.
I put the main control in the right fairing face panel for easy adjustments.
I've got it set to turn the fan on just past 1/2 on the gauge. When it comes on it cycles on and off in range much like the stock switch.