oil filter

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Placerville":1x09a1w3 said:
Here we go.....

:smilie_happy:
"You say toMAYtoe, I say termater....let's call the whole thing off..." :hihihi:

First off, I wouldn't use a WIX filter on a lawn mower engine, much less something I depend on...but that's just MY opinion. I'm the werld's werst at keeping up on oil/filter changes, so I usually try to get the best filter I can for the application.
As far as the above linked filter info, I can't see that tiny widdle thing doing much but stopping up much quicker than a "normal" filter, BUT...I s'pose if you change yer erl/filter frequently, it wouldn't matter all that much. :whistling:
 
It would be interesting to cut open other brand filters to see what is really inside!!
 
flash2002":stqo3z01 said:
This is interresting on oil filters, how true? different brands on the left.

https://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/napa.shtml
Totally lacking - waaaaaay too little information, other than how nice a filter looks when you cut it open.

So........what, did you adapt your wing to a spin on filter?
 
I know you can see the obvious differences from one extreme to the other, like comparing the Fram side by side with the Honda or K&N filter. But there are a lot of other things to consider other than the basic assembly. Like the filter medium, for one. More pleats equates to more surface area. Filtering capabilities measured in microns and it's ability to flow, etc. Also, where applicable, the check valve or anti drain back valve. Some of them will actually fall apart if they even work at all. Many of these filter labels are made by the same company who will manufacture them using different quality standards for their after market customers. I remember them being bought in bulk for $1.35 ea. when the shop would run oil change specials.
Sure, you can get a warm fuzzy from cutting open a filter and seeing that it's not made out of cardboard and glue. But how will you know that the other label sitting on the shelf next to it will actually filter any better?
Auto manufacturers seem to be trending back toward the canister/cartridge type oil filter in an attempt to maintain some kind of control over the crappy after market oil filter issues. A little messier and not as convenient, but apparently they see some value/merit in the concept. Possibly for warranty issues?
It is an interesting subject, and I've seen blogs that go much farther in depth, even putting the paper under a microscope. Specs, graphs, pictures.....? Sorry I don't have a link. (I'm ashamed I can't produce a link right now) I seem to be the only one interested sometimes, so I'll read the info and move on.
Basically I don't sweat the small stuff. I change the filter at every oil change so it doesn't stay on there too long, and deal with it at the next oil change.
 
scdmx
That is all good info,but I am in the understanding the reason manufacturers are going back to cartridge filters is cost.Although you are correct that you can see the paper elements on cheaper filters compared to the fiber elements in the WIX and other quality filters.Definitly easier to sell the WIX next to a cheapy when they can see the differance.

As a WIX dealer I have toured the plant in gastonia a few years ago and it is a very impressive facility.FYI DANA sold it to affinia about three years ago.

AApple":d8y8mecm said:
First off, I wouldn't use a WIX filter on a lawn mower engine, much less something I depend on...but that's just MY opinion. I'm the werld's werst at keeping up on oil/filter changes, so I usually try to get the best filter I can for the application.
As far as the above linked filter info, I can't see that tiny widdle thing doing much but stopping up much quicker than a "normal" filter, BUT...I s'pose if you change yer erl/filter frequently, it wouldn't matter all that much. :whistling:

What could you possibly have against a WIX filter?
 
FYI
The 51358 (NAPA 1358) shown IS a lawnmower (as well as other apps) oil filter,and all oil filters of that design,wether it be for your chevy or your toro uses a spring and tension in the design.Not just the WIX.
 
Can't beat frequent oil and filter changes. It's a shame that preventative maintainence is getting so expensive
 
Your correct,but they are getting less and less frequent now days.With the auto manufacturers going to full sythetics (GM dexos...) oil change recomendations are getting streched out longer.

Personally,be it my cars or bikes,I like to get under there every 3,000 just to check everything out,lube what I still can,check things out as well as change the oil.
Makes me wonder what the life of cars will be when people don't check anything but every 10-15,000
 
mcgovern61":29ras0zf said:
Omega Man":29ras0zf said:
Some might think I'm crazy but I change the filter every other oil change. :shock: ~O~
Why? The oil filter traps all of the contaminants. It doesn't get better with age?

The only difference I can see between the old filter and the new is the new filter looks dry and old looks wet...same color just new=dry and old=wet looking. The old oil is black but not the old filter. I've even torn an one open and no gunk.

*I will admit due to my recent heavier oil/starting problem I'm rethinking a few things. If anyone can give me a good reason to stop this practice I'm more likely to listen than ever before.

~O~
 
im not a change filter everytime guy ...i look at the oil ...its the life blood of the motor if it looks like fresh oil is needed it get it ...rather theres a filter being changed or not ....oil is much more important than filter to me
 
I'm of the opinion filter should be changed along with the oil every time.

I come from a family of all V8 engines which had the oil filter facing seal up so after draining oil you'd still have a quart of old oil in the filter.

I also believe the auto manufacturers aren't looking out for us, they make a huge percentage of their money on repair parts.
When they recommend oil change every 7k miles and filter every other change, I get suspicious.

I have to admit I get every last mile of use I can from the oil.
Both our Suburban and my Van have a change oil light that comes on. I use it to tell me when it's due, never before but usually a few weeks after :oops:
The light generally comes on around 5k miles which I think is a good time to change. 3k intervals is a waste of money.
 
I would understand changing the filter more often when the bike is new ( more wear particles ) but after you pass a certain milage you can extend the filter change. Last year, I drove from Montreal to West Coast, Washington, Vancouver and back on the same Rotella oil and filter plus the bike got super hot :heat: in traffic in Chicago, I mean Hot, the needle was at the top of the gauge :shock: , I thought the bike was going to blow, but the bike ran fine. When I got home I change the oil and filter, the oil still had a nice colour to it, it wasn't black. I guess the synthetic oil did its job :good: .
 
Oil colour is not really a good indication of the quality of oil anymore. As there are less additives in fuel now oil does not go as dark as it used to, unless you are running diesel.
 

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