Radio Speakers

[dan filipi]

If it can be narrowed down to the rca cables, I'd probably give this a try

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_127SNI1/PAC-SNI-1.html

 

[mcgovern61]

Wow! The fact that they even make that device goes to show that the issue most likely is the RCA cables.

I am satisfied with just using the speakers via the speaker output wires from the radio alone and will either toss the amp or do something else with it. The speaker wires were installed with a 6 pin connector to the amp and I like how clean that is. I was able to pull the tangs out of the connector and i think I will get a 4 pin connector just like it to run the speaker wires to the trunk with a 4 conductor shielded cable.

 

[dan filipi]

My understanding of radio noise is it originates on the low level side or the power line.
It can also come in on the antenna line.
I don't think you'd need a 4 wire shielded cable on the high level side to the speakers but I guess it wouldn't hurt.

 

[mcgovern61]

The antenna was not connected during testing, I was only using the iPod mode of the radio. I did put an inline noise suppressor on the hot wire and it still picked up loud ignition noise when connected through the amp. There must be something about the output signal on the RCA jacks that is allowing the interference to be picked up.

It could also just be the amp is too cheap to work with this radio. :hihihi:
BTW, I do not know how they measure wattage, but it sure is not a 600 watt amp! oh2:

 

[AApple]

Gerry...how is the amp and the stereo head grounded? I have found that ignition noise is usually caused by improper grounds to the system. I always run a separate ground directly to the amp/stereo chassis, as well as using the main ground coming out of the wiring harness of the unit. All grounds go directly to the battery. RFI filters that go on the power supply wires also help keep the noise down.

 

[mcgovern61]

Joel, the amp is grounded via attachment to the frame and a ground wire that goes to the battery (or - terminal connection in the fuse box). I can try grinding away some paint for good contact, but I think I am going to just use the speakers without the amp.

 

[Steve83]

The radio output may have as much, or more power than the amp anyway.

 

[mcgovern61]

UPDATE!

The radio and speakers are officially moved and working great!! arty:

It has come a long way from this:

To this:

 

[dan filipi]

Cool Gerry, looks great!

 

[joedrum]

so the radio is thing on right ooops left ...hmmmm

 

[Steve83]

It does look great! How does it sound?

 

[mcgovern61]

A lotta wiring involved with this project! I had to pull all of the old wire, remove the radio from the Cycle sound unit, install the radio in the trunk and run new wires to the ACC at the fuse box, battery and speakers. I decided to make wire harnesses that could be disconnected using the same type of plugs that were already used by Honda everywhere else on the bike. This way, I can "quick disconnect" the wiring to pull the trunk off or remove the speakers for any reason and upgrade the speakers (should I ever need to do that again) whenever I need to without rewiring the whole bike.

First step was clear the trunk and prep a space for the radio. The lid is the best location since it is the same height as the radio so closing the lid will not effect anything else loaded in the trunk up to the rim.

 

[mcgovern61]

Steve83 » Sat Jul 05, 2014 1:26 pm[/url]":2rp2bemo]
It does look great! How does it sound?

It sounds good enough for high speed riding!! Missing a little bottom end with these speakers, but you will not hear that bottom end at 75 MPH anyway. :hihihi:

 

[Steve83]

I did the same with the wiring on my '83 audio install, including the subs in the trunk. I had a donor wiring harness, and used several OEM connectors at the trunk and fairing. It does make life easier down the road!

 

[mcgovern61]

I had to fix the trunk first. Right in the center at the back (over the locking mechanism) the ABS broke through. The piece was still there in the trunk so I used ABS cement to glue it back in. I realized the reason it broke is that there is no support on the ABS where the lock is and from time, vibration (and perhaps overloading) it broke. After the glue set, I installed 1" aluminium flat bar and bolted that in tight and lastly filled the space between the lock and the trunk with material to stop it from sliding and bouncing. Nice and tight now!

I also decided to cut back the wires on my LED upper brake lights and rewire them with a removable harness.

Round one with the wire harnesses coming up through a new hole in the bottom. I filled the hole with a rubber grommet (for abrasion protection) and then moved the harnesses into some wire wrap.

 

[mcgovern61]

More wire stuff:

 

[mcgovern61]

Next...locate the radio. I see it can fit here, but I need to mount it sideways for easy access to both the front and the back without removing the radio:

 

[mcgovern61]

Radio all wired up and installed in the classic good old fashioned 8 track player box that mount under a dashboard:

I wired the rear of the radio to a marine grade terminal strip. No need to put eyelets on the ends, jut the bare wire into a compression screw (Eliminates quite a few potential bad connections in the future and gives tremendous flexibility to change any wiring later.)

And the radio installed (bolted in to the trunk) with the iPod mounted using velcro!

 

[mcgovern61]

Lastly, a good look at the speaker and remote installation:

 

[Steve83]

Gerry, you do very nice work! :clapping: k: