Rear Master Question

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TheRepoGuy

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Just dropped this on FB, wanted to see if I get a different answer on here. Question for the masses!
For those on the 1200’s Has anyone converted their rear master to a single line system rather than a dual? I read it somewhere that it can be done but haven’t seen it...


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Do you mean changing it so that the rear master acts on only the rear caliper, rather than the rear, and one front? I haven't done it yet, but when I dig into my '84, it's getting the brakes dis-integrated... first because I want more front braking power under my right hand, and second, because integrated braking on my mile-and-a-half of gravel is extremely dangerous.
 
Looking at the UBS system, it's *interesting*. Front master cylinder only operates the front left caliper. Rear master cylinder operates both the rear caliper and the front right caliper. I've seen some people claim that the front left and front right calipers have different piston sizes, which makes sense if different master cylinders are operating them.

So the cheap, redneck way appears to be getting a longer banjo bolt nut on the front master cylinder in order to attach two banjo fittings to it, and then getting a new brake line for the front right caliper. Then remove the line going from the rear master cylinder to the front and plugging that.

Obviously the front master cylinder is now operating two calipers, not one, which may exceed its design limits and may not be able to stop the front wheel effectively. A front master cylinder swap may be needed. While the rear master cylinder is operating one brake, not two, so it may be too sensitive.

Hmmm. I wonder if a GL1100 braking system would fit on a GL1200...
 
I used a VW rear master cylinder on the 86 when I converted it to a trike because the OEM master cylinder did not move enough fluid to fill the S-10 slave cylinders on the first pump. I did not re-connect the front brake line to the new master cylinder so only one side of the front brakes work. I haven't seen any decrease in braking capability since I now have three tires stopping me versus OEM two tires.

Many bikes have only one front rotor and stop as designed, so I don't believe having just one rotor on the front will severely degrade your stopping ability. Just remember, beliefs are like rectums, everyone has one.
 
Having just one rotor means just that- only one rotor. A guy could ride with just a rear brake, and never even have a front, and if he never used the front anyway, would never know the difference... would it change his stopping ability? No... since 100% of your max braking force comes from the front wheel, you'd just slide into what you didn't want to hit.

But having just one front disk means that only one disk is absorbing the heat of your stopping. With integrated braking, a full-pull on the front lever yields only half the braking capacity to start with... so it's a skinny argument at best. I will note two things for absolute-positive-certain:

The front disk on my integrated, is discolored. It's doing ALL the work.

One of the best reasons to have dual disks, is to keep the forks under same load.

When you apply just one caliper, the fork slider on THAT side is being applied torque from the turning wheel being restrained by just one caliper. This deflects the tube. If you have a sensitive touch, you'll note that if it's a left hand caliper only, the front end will bind, twist to the left and shimmy as you approach adhesion limits. If you have BOTH sides with calipers, the forks will modulate much nicer, stay straight, and stable.

Long term result is that fork seals and sliders last longer, disks don't glaze over, pads wear slower, braking is more controlled, and steering under braking much more stable.
 
Ultimately with this old girl I ended up rebuilding the rear master and bleeding the brakes the right way which apparently the PO never did either (go figure) though all the pads all the way around are new and haven’t been used at all which seems odd to me. Regardless mine works fine now.

Rebuilding the master was simple; getting to the two hydraulic lines without taking the master off was a PITA. Rather just leave the system the way it is but I was exploring options just in case


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I must be in the minority in that I like the linked brakes on my 83. I knew nothing about Goldwings when i bought mine....when i learned that the brakes were linked I envisioned myself de-linking them... 6 years later I haven't felt the need to.
 
The linked brakes never bothered me either, and I never felt any concern or instability with the one sided disk on the front brake handle. It actually wasn’t until riding my sons sport bike that I really started wanting more power from the front brake. But then these 2 bikes are ridden very differently. His, I don’t think he’s ever used the rear break, though it's rumored his are linked. Mine with linked is designed to be used front and rear together. When applied that way, it will stop it’s 800 lbs as fast as anything out there.
 
The angry dresser had linked brakes and I lived on and around many gravel roads ...my experience was it did better in gravel by far over my other bikes that had strait brakes ...the scoot out factor on strait brake bikes is huge over linked brakes ...especially when bike is not going perfect strait ...uphill and down hill huge also ...linked brakes can save your ass in gavel especially when a car is taking the middle as his ...in my opinion
 
I prefer the unlinked brakes in slippery conditions as I use it as a form of traction control. On the DD with the CBRs I set the throttle at a comfortable rpm and use the back brake to regulate road speed and eliminate broken traction. Riding the Valkyrie recently on high speed dirt ( following adventure bikes) I used the rear brake to control traction but to also change direction by sometimes sliding the rear a little. :yes:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=212405#p212405:69h1gpxe said:
Ansimp » 38 minutes ago[/url]":69h1gpxe]
I prefer the unlinked brakes in slippery conditions as I use it as a form of traction control. On the DD with the CBRs I set the throttle at a comfortable rpm and use the back brake to regulate road speed and eliminate broken traction.

Wouldn't that cause a lot of wear on the rear?
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=212408#p212408:wqwnmxru said:
saganaga » Tue Sep 03, 2019 12:43 pm[/url]":wqwnmxru]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=212405#p212405:wqwnmxru said:
Ansimp » 38 minutes ago[/url]":wqwnmxru]
I prefer the unlinked brakes in slippery conditions as I use it as a form of traction control. On the DD with the CBRs I set the throttle at a comfortable rpm and use the back brake to regulate road speed and eliminate broken traction.

Wouldn't that cause a lot of wear on the rear?
Not when you are on dirt and using a CT. :whistling:
 

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