Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive Holley,Weber 740 carb

[slabghost]

westgl » Thu Sep 12, 2013 12:15 pm[/url]":3pbwjmm2]
The engine was Frozen, Solid, when I got the Bike.

I am debating on whether or not to Do a Engine flush, to add, about a 1/2 to 1 quart of ATF to engine oil to condition the inside of engine, & lower Oil rings.

Draining out that much oil, and then add the ATF, to bring up to high side of Full

Then ride bike, with mix in it, for say 300-miles, while riding it, Oh! so lightly, on the throttle, this would also clean out that starter clutch too.

Then Change oil & Filter

AApple » Thu Sep 12, 2013 9:02 am[/url]":3pbwjmm2]
Well, in that case, they don't look too bad at all! :mrgreen:

Perhaps a new set would be beneficial at this point. I just recently put new plugs in mine...the old ones had been in it since I bought it...in '08... :blush: The new plugs made a HUGE difference in the ease of start, and it runs better on the road. :good:

I suggest you only use 1/5th of your oil capacity with atf and 4/5s your choice of oil. This works out to about 6 oz of atf. I do this every other oil change. Cars and bikes.

 

[westgl]

Thanks Slabghost,

I did that to my 99' Chevy Silverado Z71 truck & My 50' ford 850 tractor, and most of my Goldwings, Have not had a chance to do the 83' GL1100 yet

slabghost » Thu Sep 12, 2013 7:02 pm[/url]":zz73vuae]

westgl » Thu Sep 12, 2013 12:15 pm[/url]":zz73vuae]
The engine was Frozen, Solid, when I got the Bike.

I am debating on whether or not to Do a Engine flush, to add, about a 1/2 to 1 quart of ATF to engine oil to condition the inside of engine, & lower Oil rings.

Draining out that much oil, and then add the ATF, to bring up to high side of Full

Then ride bike, with mix in it, for say 300-miles, while riding it, Oh! so lightly, on the throttle, this would also clean out that starter clutch too.

Then Change oil & Filter

AApple » Thu Sep 12, 2013 9:02 am[/url]":zz73vuae]
Well, in that case, they don't look too bad at all! :mrgreen:

Perhaps a new set would be beneficial at this point. I just recently put new plugs in mine...the old ones had been in it since I bought it...in '08... :blush: The new plugs made a HUGE difference in the ease of start, and it runs better on the road. :good:

I suggest you only use 1/5th of your oil capacity with atf and 4/5s your choice of oil. This works out to about 6 oz of atf. I do this every other oil change. Cars and bikes.

 

[westgl]

I have 2 of the 34pict3, I will have to look at that adaptor, as i start switching carbs, i want something that is easy, i may be able to make one easy enough

Jungo » Thu Sep 12, 2013 6:19 pm[/url]":3nr7ze7c]
Guys, I got a 34Pict3 single barrel carb. There's any adapter to fit this carb on a C13-3244 manifold?

 

[westgl]

I dont think anything is available to adapt a solex 34pict3 to a VW manifold.

I was going to use a piece of 1/4" thick, 6061-T6 Alum the width of the alum manifold and buy a 1ft long piece to build some adapters for testing on my bike.

Drill the four holes for mounting to the VW manifold, and drill two more holes, and tap them, for the carb mounting studs, i will use a couple of bolts with the heads cut off to get the right length.

I have some gasket material that I will cut to size.

I also have a 30pict1 round bowl, that I want to test.

Jungo » Thu Sep 12, 2013 6:19 pm[/url]":dcfqq99j]
Guys, I got a 34Pict3 single barrel carb. There's any adapter to fit this carb on a C13-3244 manifold?

 

[westgl]

Just a FYI,

It is all about keeping these Oldwings running, and having availability of parts for repairs

I Was looking through some forums, saw were some guys are using the Pulse Generators from the GL1500, on the GL11/GL12, may work on the GL10? Dont Know?

I am wondering about mounting the GL1500, PG's in the back of the engine? Like in a GL10/GL11/GL12,

My 84' GL12 is in the back of the engine, the 85' GL12 and up are in the front of the engine.

They say that they (GL1500 PG's) are a heavy duty, and are Very Durable PG's,

And that they are insulated way better to take more heat, Much better than either the GL11/GL12 or GL10

I have not heard of these GL1500 PG's Failing, Or Issues with them on the GL1500 maybe someone else may have heard more on this subject.

This would make our Ignition's Much more Durable.

And provide More availability, of a hard to find part, that is Better than what came on our 4cyl. oldwing from the factory

This is Not a direct bolt on some slight mod needs to be done to be able to mount them.

LINK;

GL1200 LTD/SEI Crank Pulse Sensor "Fixed"

 

[ekvh]

It would be awesome if they would work on gl1000's, but I'm thinking they need a computer module? I am unfamiliar with gl 11. I don't think they have a computer/ecu but maybe spark units or igniters? Gl12 also? These work with the pulse? My hybrid has the pulse units in front. I think I need igniters and the computer since the computer controls the advance. I want something that will last. Dyna hasn't been good for me. The problem with gl12 is, no one is making them anymore.

 

[westgl]

This is a topic for another thread, PM's Welcome to try and decide.

Just wanted to see if i can see if enough interest is there to start another thread and get some people to try and maybe perfect it.

ekvh » Fri Sep 13, 2013 7:09 am[/url]":4zsq0t84]
It would be awesome if they would work on gl1000's, but I'm thinking they need a computer module? I am unfamiliar with gl 11. I don't think they have a computer/ecu but maybe spark units or igniters? Gl12 also? These work with the pulse? My hybrid has the pulse units in front. I think I need igniters and the computer since the computer controls the advance. I want something that will last. Dyna hasn't been good for me. The problem with gl12 is, no one is making them anymore.

 

[westgl]

First off

No Carb Leaks & NO Hydrolocks at all:

I want to say, No Fuel Leaks, any where!!

Since my Manifold Build, and Single Carb. Startup,

I have had my Gas tank Fuel shut Off Valve, or Fuel Petcock turned to the ON position.

It will remain in the ON position,

This is part of my Test of the Single carb.

No Leaks at all, No Hydrolock at all.

That is good, I have my gas tank Fuel shut off Valve turned to ON position, and will NOT be turning it off at all, unless I get a problem.

I will be posting any problems that arise.

Heat For the Bottom Of Manifold:

My thought for some Heat to bottom of VW manifold is,

There is a small mounting tab directly under the VW manifold, there is a mounting hole on top of the GL4 engine, directly under the VW manifold.

A short piece of flat ALUM. maybe 1" wide? i will have to verify that.

That piece of alum. may conduct enough heat, to help some.

That and some heated radiator intake air, should do the rest.

I want to make a shroud from the front of the Air Filter, as far forward as possible, to capture some radiator heat and direct it to heat the intake air.

There is one hole at each end, one end mounted to the bottom of the VW manifold, other to the Engine block,

This may transfer a small amount of constant heat to the bottom, Center of the VW intake manifold.

Even a small amount of heat, 10 degrees, maybe all that is needed for cold weather riding.

I will put that on my To Do list.

I will use some Thermal heat sink Compound


Alternative to heatsink compound for cheapskates...

I have used Permatex anti-seize compound (aluminum based) as a cpu heatsink compound. And it works fine. I wanted to test whether it can be used as a substitute to silicone heatsink compound. I didn't see a rise in temps from the cpu thermistor.
It works fine in my experiment.

Go to Permatex's website for more specifications on their anti-seize compounds. Their copper based one can handle higher temps.

Only issue may be the organic lubricant carrier is low viscosity, may get runny in very high temps. Too bad it doesn't come with a silicone based lube instead.
Also being aluminum powder, may be conductive if improperly used.


Their disc brake lube is a silicone grease. Very viscous and tacky to resist oxidation by brake heat and wash out by water spray. But it may not have heat transfer characteristics of a compound due to lack of suspended heat transfering particles.

Yes, the anti-seize you can see begin to separate slightly even in the bottle into it's oil and aluminum consitituents. It must be stirred up well before use. It does say "resists temperatures up to 1600 F" but I suppose this does not mean it can't get real runny in the process.

Now, the silicone disc brake lube says resists temperatures up to 550 F, but it is a much thicker consistency to begin with. I guess the question is, what are the thermal heat transfer characteristics of the molybdenum that is suspended in the silicone?

Well, I did a little search, and found that both silicone and molybdenum are used for their thermal conductivity in heatsinks, so I think I will go with the caliper lube. I also found this:

During the early construction of nuclear power plants, steam condensers relied upon copper base alloys – brass and copper nickel – for heat transfer capabilities. These alloys have high coefficients of thermal conductivity required in steam generation to power nuclear reactor turbines. But copper-alloyed tubes were being replaced too quickly – with an average life of eight years – because of sulphide pitting. Hardest hit were those reactors using polluted seawater to cool their reactors.

Over the past 30 years ago, nuclear utilities slowly began turning to the super austenitic stainless steels as one way to make their nuclear reactors last longer. The addition of molybdenum, initially starting with percentage of less than four percent, helped increase the thermal conductivity lacking in nickel, iron or steel. At nuclear stations which replaced the copper alloys with HPSS condenser tubes, 57 percent rated the thermal performance good and all but one rated it normal. Molybdenum had helped overcome the thermal hurdle.

Then I will periodically do a feel test for temp of bottom center of VW manifold

 

[ekvh]

westgl » Fri Sep 13, 2013 10:28 am[/url]":3bbh3ey3]
This is a topic for another thread,

Just wanted to see if i can see if enough interest is there to start another thread and get some people to try and maybe perfect it.

ekvh » Fri Sep 13, 2013 7:09 am[/url]":3bbh3ey3]
It would be awesome if they would work on gl1000's, but I'm thinking they need a computer module? I am unfamiliar with gl 11. I don't think they have a computer/ecu but maybe spark units or igniters? Gl12 also? These work with the pulse? My hybrid has the pulse units in front. I think I need igniters and the computer since the computer controls the advance. I want something that will last. Dyna hasn't been good for me. The problem with gl12 is, no one is making them anymore.

I'd love to see a thread on this. Eventually he gl12 will have to have something different as the black boxes lose all their magic.

 

[Jungo]

westgl » Fri Sep 13, 2013 9:10 am[/url]":bx7l2ort]
I dont think anything is available to adapt a solex 34pict3 to a VW manifold.

I was going to use a piece of 1/4" thick, 6061-T6 Alum the width of the alum manifold and buy a 1ft long piece to build some adapters for testing on my bike.

Drill the four holes for mounting to the VW manifold, and drill two more holes, and tap them, for the carb mounting studs, i will use a couple of bolts with the heads cut off to get the right length.

I have some gasket material that I will cut to size.

I also have a 30pict1 round bowl, that I want to test.

Will this thing work? I'll call these guys to check dimensions.

adapter3

• Jungo
• Sep 13, 2013

https://www.secretsofspeed.com/PARTS-LIST.htm

 

[joedrum]

it might jungo ... but you have to consider tallness ... everything together mat stick up too much ...there are other options for that carb also....

 

[westgl]

You will have to consider 2 things

1. over all Height it will be much higher, get some dimensions especially height, like Joe mentioned
2. Orientation of carb. which direction does it sit? after mounted,

I would hate for you to buy that adaptor, build a manifold to find out that the carb. sits in there facing the wrong direction.

or something on the carb hits the frame.

Your 34pict3 carb has a elec. choke?

Jungo » Fri Sep 13, 2013 1:39 pm[/url]":3nwewcrc]

westgl » Fri Sep 13, 2013 9:10 am[/url]":3nwewcrc]
I dont think anything is available to adapt a solex 34pict3 to a VW manifold.

I was going to use a piece of 1/4" thick, 6061-T6 Alum the width of the alum manifold and buy a 1ft long piece to build some adapters for testing on my bike.

Drill the four holes for mounting to the VW manifold, and drill two more holes, and tap them, for the carb mounting studs, i will use a couple of bolts with the heads cut off to get the right length.

I have some gasket material that I will cut to size.

I also have a 30pict1 round bowl, that I want to test.

Will this thing work? I'll call these guys to check dimensions.

adapter3

• Jungo
• Sep 13, 2013

https://www.secretsofspeed.com/PARTS-LIST.htm

 

[westgl]

Jungo

I just went to the web site, it looks like that adapter has 4 mounting holes on the 34pict carb mount side.

It looks like it might possibly may be able to be mounted in any orientation.

I have not tested that carb on my intake as of yet, so it would be all you.

 

[westgl]

I have a part that I made today that has

2 each Functions,

1. It adds some Heat to the center of the VW Manifold.
2. It provides a extra support for the VW Center manifold.

I used a Laser Thermometer, point the laser at anything to check the temps on the New Bracket to see the changes in the transfer of heat.

Temp outside at the time was 90 degrees.

Before starting the engine, at all for the day.

I took the new Brackets temp. it was 90 degrees.

I then started & ran the bike till it reached operating temperature.

Then i took the temp again the Bracket was 101 degrees, less than 10 minutes later.

That is gain of 11 degrees.

Also took temp of Air filter top, while engine was cold it measured 90 degrees

Took temp again, but only after the Radiator fans had cycled a few times

The temp of the Air filter top was 115 degrees.

This added enough heat that I am not going to do anything else till needed.

Tip: On the new Heater bracket,
I used some Anti seize as a Thermal Conducting compound, between the new bracket and the Alum engine mount, and the other side of the new bracket & VW alum. manifold mount as there is a Mount on the bottom of the VW manifold.

of coarse that is at 90 degrees out more testing will have to be done but even if Some of the cold was wicked away from the VW manifold that is better than it was.

First 2 pics show the New Bracket mounted

Pic #2 is the engine side of the mount,
Pic #1 shows the other side of the new Bracket that is mounted to the VW manifold

Res of pics show bracket in various stages

 

[joedrum]

well now that everything has proved it self im in final stage of doing this up for good ll im just overall super happy with the set up of this design of fitting to stock intakes ... what a great move on my part .... and as I was looking today the gas hook up just couldn't be better in it final version coming ... the icing thing will get dealt with as it is such a great mode over stock .. I coulnt dream of having anything else ... one kick butt fuel system ..for such a aggressively moded 1200 motor

 

[slabghost]

I like that adapter!

 

[westgl]

When I decided to use the Silicone hose for the Manifold runners,

I thought that positioning All the clamps, so that all the Adjustments for the clamps are all facing to the Outside, and once running properly then turn them so that all of the Clamp Adjustment screws are facing Down,

This would make for a cleaner look

Once you had it together, Running and tested, then you can give it a cleaner look by loosening all 10ea of the Hose clamps.

Then push all the Clamp Adjustments screws face down Under the hoses, down to the bottom of the Hose,

this way they are under the hose and out of sight.

I did this today, And it looks CLEAN!!

Also, since You can see the top of your engine much better, now that it is wide open,

I did some Wire management to clean up the look a little,

I ty-wrapped the wiring so that it looks better.

It has a cleaner look.

I will provide some pictures, when there is some more fire in the sky.

Tip,
To tighten these S.S. clamps use a 5/16" socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet, as you can get them good and Tight

 

[westgl]

That sounds really good Joe!

I agree with you joe,

I dont think, I could ever go back to 4 carbs,

The single carb. conversion has ruined me for the OEM 4carb rack.

As I see the 4 carb rack, as being a worthless, and Out of date, piece of equipment, that it's time has come and gone, and no longer providing a reliable, safe, or fun ride.

The Fun goes out of it, when the carbs come off.

Also no Fuel leaks, no hydro lock, Yippeeeee!!!!

joedrum » Fri Sep 13, 2013 4:03 pm[/url]":1l8wir2p]
well now that everything has proved it self im in final stage of doing this up for good ll im just overall super happy with the set up of this design of fitting to stock intakes ... what a great move on my part .... and as I was looking today the gas hook up just couldn't be better in it final version coming ... the icing thing will get dealt with as it is such a great mode over stock .. I coulnt dream of having anything else ... one kick butt fuel system ..for such a aggressively moded 1200 motor

 

[Jungo]

joedrum » Fri Sep 13, 2013 5:42 pm[/url]":1t23zqwt]
it might jungo ... but you have to consider tallness ... everything together mat stick up too much ...there are other options for that carb also....

Yes Joe, you're right. I'm in constant communication with sellers asking for dimensions etc., to avoid a too high installation.

Your 34pict3 carb has a elec. choke?

I presume that have an electric choke. It has an electric spade connection on the top, and another connection in the bottom (like a solenoid input).

I found this guy on fleabay selling this Weber Base Adapter LandCruiser FJ40. I just sent an email asking for the dimensions of this kit.

adapter1

• Jungo
• Sep 14, 2013

 

[westgl]

Here is a adapter, $15.00 + shipping

1.5" tall adapter, using a shorter air filter may work, but you will need to verify

This will fit the VW manifold, I dont know if it will work for your carb.

If they could e-mail you a dimensional drawing of the single carb. mount for this or any Adapter that you choose, then you can check it against your carb.

Call them to find out

Please verify that it will work for you.
Companies description of part below and a link to their site.

Adapter 1 BBL to 2 BBL Fits Carter / Weber and Weber 32/36

(1.8" tall) For use with the Carter/Weber Progressive 2 BBL Carb or Weber 32/36 carbs we sell or the Holley/Weber Progressive 2 BBL carb we no longer sell.

(We need to know what carb you will be using so we include the correct gaskets and bolts.) (Note: This does NOT fit Rochester carbs)

LINK

https://stoveboltengineco.com/catalog/st ... id=1222023


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