Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive Holley,Weber 740 carb

[westgl]

I could solder the tube to the VW manifold.

But!

If I need to insert a choke inside the tube runner, I will want to be able to remove each tube, but still have a great seal.

So I will re-use my 1-1/2"id Silicone hose clamped to the VW manifold, and to the new tube runner.

The Silicone Hose will have Zero contact with any fuel while running

Do it this way I can make a cut on one side of the tube, to get a bend going.

BUT!!!!!

I will not have to Come back, I only bend to the location, No having to bend back the equal amount back that I bent to get there.

The OEM manifold was at a fixed angle that was the problem,

Now I can set my own angle, Like pointing straight at the VW manifold outlet, for a much easier mount, with out the drastic contorting.

Since I wont be soldering the runners to the VW manifold all parts are replace-able.

 

[westgl]

Once i get this setup finished, my brother-in-law is already asking for the best one that works.

But I am getting ahead of my self

With that VW manifold, there is no denying that it is right and the size is great.

Volume Is also great.

My bike ran really well with the 1-1/4" id tubes, even though the transitions inside the tubes could have been Much better on Rev.#1, also with collapsing tubes while riding, I am thinking it should do better with Rev.#2.

The Collapsing hoses could have acted like a auto choke, for the runner? Or was I very restricted, to Very Restricted in Flow.

That is why, I want to leave the option, of adding a choke to the inside of my runners, If needed, for tuning, and part replacement.

 

[westgl]

One other thing i forgot to mention was.

I will get some heat to each Runner tube, from being bolted directly to the heads,

Since the runner tubes will be all 6060T6 Alum. from where they bolt to the head, to the VW Manifold, there is No heat Isolation,

So I will be getting some heat transference.

I will use the laser thermometer to check thermal transference, the length of the runner, once it is running.

That and I will still use My heater bracket, Under the VW manifold, between those two, Heat sources, and Heated Air for the intake, I should be more than fine,

I will Not add any coolant heat, at this point, unless I need to.

I do not ride in weather less then 40 degrees any way.

I am hoping that the reduced, VW plenum Volume size will act like a choke for charge speed up and air/fuel mix, so that I do not have to add any chokes to the tubing.

But i will find out once running, and may make some chokes any way.

Stock chokes are about 1"-1-1/2" long, I will have to get a better measurement on them.

The manifold tract length from throttle butterfly to Oem manifold is very short, so air/fuel does not have far to be pulled.

 

[westgl]

To open the VW plenum outlets I used a Dremel tool and a sanding bit.

I kept opening the plenum outlet till I could Push in the tube till it seated/bottomed out against the plenum, It is a very good fit of the Tube ID to
Plenum ID, Like it was made for it.

A very smooth Transition, between the VW manifold & the Tube ID,

This was not hard to do, It may look intimidating but it is not hard to do.

Main thing is keeping looking at your plenum outlet thickness to see what area needs more thinning.

I kept moving the same amount back and fourth, then rotate, repeat, test fit, then look for any thicker spots in the edge of the VW plenum outlet.

A thicker spot on the edge of Plenum outlet, needs to be sanded down to match the rest, so the edge thickness is a Uniformed thickness.

NOTE:
All metals, especially Alloys,

When grinding and making alum. dust, use a Mask and Eye protection, (the Eye is the most absorb-able external part of the body) Alum./ metals, in the brain, is one of the causes of Alzheimer's, protect your self. Don't poison yourself while you work.

Link to Dremel tool accessories sanding bit,

two sanding covers were all that I needed to open one outlet, & maybe 30 minutes


https://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories ... px?pid=407

https://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories ... px?pid=408

 

[westgl]

After the Plenum outlets are opened and matched to the tube runners.

I will need to do the tube Bend using a cut, this cut is 4/5 of the diameter, leaving 1/5 left, to get the bend i need.

Then I will High temp solder/Braze, melting point is 1100 degrees and 20,000psi tensile strength.

I will use a Propane torch to do the soldering.

 

[Jungo]

First report:

First of all I have to admit that the Enterprise has improved his power on takeoff. I do not know if my report is one of help, since I have no way to compare objectively.

In my case, probably like many of you, my OEM rack never worked at 100% capacity. Constantly had synchronization problems and possibly clogging problems in one of the carburetors. At times I felt as if the Enterprise fuel thirsty. Most of the time at takeoff. When the throttle was 40-50% or more is felt normal.

Now with the change of the single carb is a different story. The bike does not feel thirsty, has a lot more power on takeoff and feels more powerful.

I can not say that a single 34 PICT-3 carb is superior to an OEM rack, I can only say that the bike is working like never before and I still have not made the final adjustments as air intake volume, etc..

This modification represents definitely an alternative for people like me who have no luck working with the OEM rack.

For the next months I will be evaluating the 34 PICT 3 because at Christmas I'll ask Santa for a 32DFT. :mrgreen:

 

[joedrum]

jungo got it going ...better than he had ... that pretty much success in any view there is :builder: :mrgreen: great job

 

[westgl]

Dang, Sounds to me like Jungo,

Got bit by the single carb bug big time.

I know how that is.

Jungo you are not the minority with the OEM 4 carb rack.

I would not even try to compare to the old Oem 4 carb rack.

It is like comparing Apples to Lemons, with the Oem 4 carb rack not even as good as a Orange.

A lot of people rebuild the four carb rack, and then keep screwing with them and continually messing with them, it is a crime, to keep limping a long with the 4 carb rack.

Only to become a very long term dis-appointment, for a long time, that was thought, that living with a poor running bike was the only way.

When we Now have such a excellent alternative.

Once you ride a single carb conversion, you want to throw stones at the 4 carb rack.

 

[Jungo]

joedrum » Fri Sep 27, 2013 7:41 pm[/url]":3vx2ov1r]
jungo got it going ...better than he had ... that pretty much success in any view there is :builder: :mrgreen: great job

Dang, Sounds to me like Jungo,

Got bit by the single carb bug big time.

I know how that is.

Jungo you are not the minority with the OEM 4 carb rack.

I would not even try to compare to the old Oem 4 carb rack.

It is like comparing Apples to Lemons, with the Oem 4 carb rack not even as good as a Orange.

A lot of people rebuild the four carb rack, and then keep screwing with them and continually messing with them, it is a crime, to keep limping a long with the 4 carb rack.

Only to become a very long term dis-appointment, for a long that was thought of to be the only way.

When we Now have such a excellent alternative.

Once you ride a single carb conversion, you want to throw stones at the 4 carb rack.

:thanks: thank you guys. Tomorrow the big test. Tank full and a trip to Melbourne Beach. A 150mi trip. :moped:

 

[westgl]

That's great Jungo enjoy the ride.

After your ride,

Dont try to compare,

Cause this is like having a New bike,

Just tell us what you think.

engine noise

power from a stop light

Power from a roll on.

Is it smooth

How is the power? is it enough power?

 

[Jungo]

westgl » Fri Sep 27, 2013 8:30 pm[/url]":16q56tfq]
That's great Jungo enjoy the ride.

After your ride,

Dont try to compare,

Cause this is like having a New bike,

Just tell us what you think.

engine noise

power from a stop light

Power from a roll on.

Is it smooth

How is the power? is it enough power?

OK k:

 

[westgl]

Sorry guys for going back and fourth so much.

I am the master of disaster, the Crude dude, the pi$$ed off Savage, after all.

I have been looking at the OEM manifolds again, there may be something that can be done.

There are only two Worst manifolds (like Knackwurst or liverwurst) that need to be Modified, the other two are straight shots in.

I like Ham better, and Liverwurst, no I dont, I hate Liverwurst.

The Mod. will be, to adjust the two worst manifolds to Point directly at the cylinder head ports.

That way, you have only 1 bend, to point, directly, to the Port, and then, a straight shot into the oem manifold.

This will eliminate the 2nd bend, having to come back the equal amount, to get a straight shot into the oem manifolds.

I have one bad Manifold, I will modify it, and see if it will work first.

My desire here is to make this easy for everyone to do as a DIY project

 

[joedrum]

its what im doing west too ... as a safety thing west what you said I think on other carb thread about safety concerns is true ...but if one wants the best solution its not masks and stuff ..I can speak on this as I fall quickly in bad conditions first to go ...if you are creating x amount of cfm of bad to your health ... the only cure is 10 fold or even great cfm of good air ... its the only thing that has kept me from falling out ... masks and stuff just don't work ...beleave me in the perfect test person ...sheesh not something I like but I do know what works

 

[dan filipi]

The way you guys are switching from one thing to another is making these threads near impossible to follow.

There's no reason not to start a new thread west.

 

[westgl]

Done

New thread started

 

[82a]

new topic linked
Single Carb. Conversion, VW Plenum & Modding, the OEM Manifolds

 

[Jungo]

Due problems with the rainy weather, I could not make the trip to Melbourne. However, I filled the fuel tank and took Highway 417 north to the store CycleGear (some 60mi round trip.). It was a pleasant trip where the march felt like silk, averaging 70-75mph @ 4k RPM. I made the trip without the false tank installed, to keep watch for any anomalies or noise. During the take offs had to keep high revs due to problems with the carburetor, but once it was no longer necessary to run high revs.

When I returned home, I noticed a very high fuel consumption. To have run 60mi on a highway, the bike consumed almost 1/4 tank. I know very well my fuel gauge, and I know the carb is consuming a lot. Remember that the carb I got it as a gift, so I do not know their past history. Only I know that the previous owner gave it to me because he bought a new one. Why do you think he bought a new one? :headscratch: Do not tell me please, I know the answer. oh2:

I have decided to purchase a 34 PICT carb again as I have followed all the procedures to adjust the carb and no way for it to work well. This type of carb is very easy to adjust (when it is working well). Only requires 2 1/2 turns on the air screw volume, and adjust the bypass up to 900RPM's. With my carb I can not do that. The only way it can work is by turning the screw 7 laps, and that causes a rich mixture. Indeed the odor of the combustion in the exhaust has a strong smell of raw gasoline. Not worth further testing with the carb in these conditions.

 

[joedrum]

hmmmmm

 

[westgl]

Jungo

Did you try adjusting BOTH screws out 2-1/2 turns each.

That I think is your adjustment.

If both screws are not adjusted the same amount, 2-1/2 turns out, then it throws the other one off.

Give that a try, it dont cost nothing

 

[westgl]

besides your idle speed control screw

There are two adjustment screws, those are the two screws for the 2-1/2 turns out adjustment