Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive Holley,Weber 740 carb

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Shovelking, your runners win the cool prize for sure!
They certainly look the best I've ever seen and your posting your method shows there are many ways to do this mod successfully!
 
That is a excellent find, Shovelking

Good Imagination, to use something that is already built, and is readily available, reasonably priced, for the quality that you get.
 
I doubt I can make something, that nice, and that finished looking for any less $$

I like that it is in a S.S.

They are a lot less work, to fabricate.

For someone that wants to get running in a hurry, and looks great, you dont have to paint, or do any maintenance to the exterior like painting cause it got scratched, No rust, and durable.

Does the S.S. bars have a clear coat over the S.S.?

1 ¼” Grab Bar
rods are formed from
type 304 stainless steel tubing with a
satin finish.
12”–42” length is 20 gauge
 
Thanks DaveJ,

For posting a better price, for the 1-1/4".

I may go to Lowes and pick one up, or at least measure the ID of this tube with a mic. to see what it is.

If it is 20 gauge,

20 ga = 0.0359" x 2 = 0.0718"

ID of 1-1/4" OD tubing would be, 1.1782 ID

That sounds like it would work really well,

Just add in the chokes into the Plenum Outlets, and I'm in.

I will go this route on my 84' GL1200 Single carb Conversion Project Coming Up.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98853#p98853:eww95ixr said:
Dave_J » Sun Oct 06, 2013 7:32 pm[/url]":eww95ixr]
They have them in store in Salem/Keizer OR. for $14.36 each so for less than $29 you'd have all 4 runners. https://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?ipT ... BeanArray=[com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%40245e245e]&cmRelshp=req&storeNumber=2619&langId=-1&cId=PDIO1&partNumber=176885-1471-R7418&storeId=10151&rel=nofollow
 
Even the Moen 12" Bar may work, # 7412, 1-1/4" OD

Moen Part Numbers
7412, 12" 1-1/4" OD
R7418, 18" 1-1/4" OD
R7424, 24" 1-1/4" OD
R7436, 36" 1-1/4" OD
R7442, 42" 1-1/4" OD

But i would have measure over all length, to see what the minimum length would be to make sure the 12" l would work.

The 12" L Only pennies less, but another option.

https://www.lowes.com/pd_176885-1471-741 ... B5003696__
 
The one I posted says its made out of "METAL" but does not say what metal, only that it has a STAINLESS look to it. It may be plated brass, without putting my hands on one, I do not know. Still, plated brass should work.
 
Here is a material make up from Moen,

On their 7400 series Grab Bars

This shows that from

12" to 42" Grab rail length, they are 20 ga. S.S., 48" is 18 ga. S.S.


[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98890#p98890:rfwysfzn said:
Dave_J » Mon Oct 07, 2013 9:04 am[/url]":rfwysfzn]
The one I posted says its made out of "METAL" but does not say what metal, only that it has a STAINLESS look to it. It may be plated brass, without putting my hands on one, I do not know. Still, plated brass should work.
 
With that said,

I have seen 303 & 304 Stainless Steel Rust, so is is Not completely rust proof.

Maintenance, would be to oil the S.S. periodically, and wipe it down.

If you live near the ocean, or a salty environment maybe more often.

A very light coat of oil should take care of any problems.

if you do get a little rust, light sanding, with fine sandpaper, and wipe down, then Oil lightly.

But i really dont think anyone would have any problem.
 
If the flange is already welded, what else would you need welded?

Stainless, would be a problem for welding, as it is not like steel to weld.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98897#p98897:27ljm5ox said:
dan filipi » Mon Oct 07, 2013 10:41 am[/url]":27ljm5ox]
For me ss makes it a problem for welding.
Do they make these in copper, brass, or regular steel, something that can be brazed? Or do these not need to be welded?
 
No clearcoat on the ones I used, after all the grinding and deburring was done, a quick once over with the wire brush on my bench grinder turned the brushed finish into a polished look, a quick rubbing with a little mothers mag polish should keep them shiny..... the no welding thing was a major bonus for me, Dan, I have a mig, and weld sheetmetal and brackets and stuff, but stainless or aluminum welding is not in my skillset...
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98906#p98906:1a600spq said:
shovelking81 » Mon Oct 07, 2013 1:18 pm[/url]":1a600spq]
No clearcoat on the ones I used, after all the grinding and deburring was done, a quick once over with the wire brush on my bench grinder turned the brushed finish into a polished look, a quick rubbing with a little mothers mag polish should keep them shiny..... the no welding thing was a major bonus for me, Dan, I have a mig, and weld sheetmetal and brackets and stuff, but stainless or aluminum welding is not in my skillset...
I stopped at Home Depot and looked at one of these SS grab bars.
Where the pipe meets the ring flange it looks almost like copper or brass along the edge of the pipe.
I wonder if these pipes are SS coated on a copper pipe?
Sound crazy?
I ask because I'd like to be able to braze seal along that edge.
 
I think the flange may be brazed on some of these, I had one of these to begin with, and it was definitely welded, but I needed 2 that matched so I bought 2 new ones, and they look to be brazed, where I cut was not copper
 
Some brazing, & welding can have a copper look to it.

But the Moen is Grab Bar is S.S. according to their spec sheet I posted
 
GOOD!!!

I am glad that there is NO clear coat, just bare steel, it's just one less mess to deal with.

Yea i did not think about wax, that would work good and not attract dirt.

In a shop environment you would oil your metals to keep the from corroding
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98634#p98634:3v2eva5w said:
shovelking81 » Sat Oct 05, 2013 12:35 pm[/url]":3v2eva5w]
Took her out for a shakedown ride this morning, 4 pumps of the throttle, fired right up, held at 2500 rpm's for about a minute, idle was a little rough for about another minute, but didn't go dead, then smoothed out at about 1000 rpm, love the throttle response and the torque is awesome, best it has run since I have owned it, many thanks to all you guys for this great forum, I learned a lot from reading everyone else's trial and error, my intake runners are made from 2, 18 inch by 1 1/2 stainless bathroom grab bars, get the exposed screw version, $18.95 each at home depot, I used big block chevy water pump gaskets and a thin coat of black rtv to seal to the heads, took about an hour each runner to get bolt holes located properly, I stuffed a paper towel down the ports in the heads, and set a shallow well socket that fit port snugly down the port and set runner over it to keep it centered over the port, located and drilled the bolt holes, then set one of the stock intakes on the bottom of the flange, lined up the bolt holes, then marked outline of stock intake and cut off excess flange, then grind to final shape, there is only about a 1/8th inch gap between runner and plenum. I used fuel rated hose for the connections , the mandrel bends, pre welded flanges, and smooth inner surface of the stainless tube made this a no brainer, being bolted directly to the heads gives good heat transfer, I am also working on a brace for the plenum, (thanks West ! ), that should give me some heat there also, maybe this will help someone else with their conversion, Single carb forever !!!
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Shovelking, what size and type of fuel rated hose did you use? The VW manifold spigot is 1 5/8" OD and your runners are 1 1/2". Did you use 1 1/2" fuel hose and stretch it over the spigot? Can`t seem to find 1 5/8" fuel hose listed anywhere.
Brian
 
I would like to know that too.

But it does not have to be fuel rated hose, as it has very little, if any contact with fuel, if reducer chokes were added to the outlets.

It would only serve as a mechanical seal.
 
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