Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive Holley,Weber 740 carb

[dan filipi]

canuckxxxx » Tue Oct 15, 2013 9:29 am[/url]":b5i60meo]
Something I should point out is that the Suzuki flange does not fit exactly on the middle of the port but is a bit toward the outside. That is because the GW flange bolts are not in line with the centre line of the port. On the second picture I have a pencil line where the edge of the Suzuki flange is.

But it would still make a good seal against the head?

 

[canuckxxxx]

dan filipi » Tue Oct 15, 2013 9:31 am[/url]":30681fmm]

canuckxxxx » Tue Oct 15, 2013 9:29 am[/url]":30681fmm]
Something I should point out is that the Suzuki flange does not fit exactly on the middle of the port but is a bit toward the outside. That is because the GW flange bolts are not in line with the centre line of the port. On the second picture I have a pencil line where the edge of the Suzuki flange is.

But it would still make a good seal against the head?

I think so Dan, I just wanted to present the whole picture because my first pic made it look like a perfect fit.

 

[westgl]

I think what the other guys were saying is if everything is not perfectly aligned right and anything is off or twisted the very soft rubber pulls away from it's seat and causes vacuum leaks.

Any torquing of the engine or tubes in different directions can also cause this condition.

Also, the rubber would insulate the heat, rather than transfer it.

But i would love to see somebody make it work.

They cost approx. $18 to $37 each, they are not cheap.

The SS grab bar is Very In-expensive, approx. $7.00 each tube

 

[canuckxxxx]

westgl » Tue Oct 15, 2013 10:20 am[/url]":3jmtg1bn]
I think what the other guys were saying is if everything is not perfectly aligned right and anything is off or twisted the very soft rubber pulls away from it's seat and causes vacuum leaks.

Any torquing of the engine or tubes in different directions can also cause this condition.

Also, the rubber would insulate the heat, rather than transfer it.

But i would love to see somebody make it work.

They cost approx. $18 to $37 each, they are not cheap.

The SS grab bar is Very In-expensive, approx. $7.00 each tube

West, understand that the Suzuki flange is not just a soft rubber thing. It has an inbedded metal plate where the flange bolts to the head that make the base rigid. It is just the part where the carb fits that is pliable rubber.

 

[westgl]

Ok

I wonder if the Mikuni is built the same way.

Once i saw they were soft I investigated no more.

 

[ekvh]

Maybe someone can confirm, but I believe there is a plate completely encased in rubber in the base so when you tighten down, it seals the base with no need for an o-ring.

 

[82a]

here's a parts fiche for a suzie that does show O rings used #28, those prob have a groove for it
https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs1100-gl-1 ... ml#results

 

[canuckxxxx]

82a » Tue Oct 15, 2013 2:38 pm[/url]":2fyvqhpc]
here's a parts fiche for a suzie that does show O rings used #28, those prob have a groove for it
https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs1100-gl-1 ... ml#results

It shows an O-ring for the GS750 too but my flanges do not have a groove so there must be a groove in the head. To be honest I cannot remember an O-ring...but there must have been one.

 

[Dave_J]

canuckxxxx » Tue Oct 15, 2013 3:20 pm[/url]":3min63v1]

82a » Tue Oct 15, 2013 2:38 pm[/url]":3min63v1]
here's a parts fiche for a suzie that does show O rings used #28, those prob have a groove for it
https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs1100-gl-1 ... ml#results

It shows an O-ring for the GS750 too but my flanges do not have a groove so there must be a groove in the head. To be honest I cannot remember an O-ring...but there must have been one.

I do not remember any O ring there ether. I have had my GS750's carbs off a few times.

I will go out and look at the connector for my Burgman 650's throttle body.

 

[westgl]

Mikuni Flange List

The two Flange p/n's, I have arrows by seem to be a fairly close match

Mikuni Flanges 001

• westgl
• Oct 15, 2013

Mikuni Flange listing

 

[canuckxxxx]

Here is a heads-up to anyone thinking of using the 1 1/4" Moen grab bars for runners to the manifold.

I got my 1 1/4" Moen grab bars today and immediately cut one of them in half so I could see how the flange would sit on the head and how the other end would line up with the manifold. The horizontal part is barely high enough to clear the coolant lines on top of the engine. In fact the manifold will have to right down on top of the coolant plumbing.

That might not be such a bad thing because it should be pretty easy to rig something up to conduct the heat from the coolant to the manifold.

Will keep you posted as things progress.

Brian

 

[canuckxxxx]

canuckxxxx » Fri Oct 18, 2013 5:37 am[/url]":3psmjv2k]
Here is a heads-up to anyone thinking of using the 1 1/4" Moen grab bars for runners to the manifold.

I got my 1 1/4" Moen grab bars today and immediately cut one of them in half so I could see how the flange would sit on the head and how the other end would line up with the manifold. The horizontal part is barely high enough to clear the coolant lines on top of the engine. In fact the manifold will have to right down on top of the coolant plumbing.

That might not be such a bad thing because it should be pretty easy to rig something up to conduct the heat from the coolant to the manifold.

Will keep you posted as things progress.

Brian

To be clear: I will try and conduct the heat from the outside of the coolant plumbing to the underside of the manifold.

Brian

 

[westgl]

Kind of a radiated thermal transference of heat.

Sounds good

 

[canuckxxxx]

canuckxxxx » Fri Oct 18, 2013 5:37 am[/url]":v2w4hwi3]
Here is a heads-up to anyone thinking of using the 1 1/4" Moen grab bars for runners to the manifold.

I got my 1 1/4" Moen grab bars today and immediately cut one of them in half so I could see how the flange would sit on the head and how the other end would line up with the manifold. The horizontal part is barely high enough to clear the coolant lines on top of the engine. In fact the manifold will have to right down on top of the coolant plumbing.

That might not be such a bad thing because it should be pretty easy to rig something up to conduct the heat from the coolant to the manifold.

Will keep you posted as things progress.

Brian

Another thing that I have found, that I do not like, about the Moen grab bars is that the flange is not flat until about 1/8" before the mounting holes. You can see from the pics that there is a raised part of the flange where the bar is welded to the flange. On the underside that is a valley.

On mine it looks like I will only have about 1/16" flat Moen flange to flat head flange contact area to make a vacuum-tight seal.

Maybe the Glacier Bay flanges are better...not sure.
Brian

 

[joedrum]

hmmmmmm I think the expose mount grab bars are the ones that work the best

 

[AApple]

Looks like a good place for an o-ring, or flat rubber washer....?

 

[ekvh]

The other question is whether the welds on the inside are air tight. I wouldn't think that they would be spec'd to be that way for a grab bar. It wouldn't take much to weld a flange on there with a little more meat. Stainless transfers heat slowly I think.

 

[joedrum]

well this is were the jungo runners really shine bright ...the intake horns are left stock ...and the mother Honda set up at sealing to the heads remains the same and is something I admire about how well this set up works ...the other end of the horns ..with the jungo runners is not compromised at all its strait in .....also the plenum end is totally right for type 4 hook up transistions ....

im holding off on hooches tweaking till I get the jungo runners ...

 

[mcgovern61]

canuckxxxx » Mon Oct 21, 2013 9:38 am[/url]":35of5yeo]
Another thing that I have found, that I do not like, about the Moen grab bars is that the flange is not flat until about 1/8" before the mounting holes. You can see from the pics that there is a raised part of the flange where the bar is welded to the flange. On the underside that is a valley.

On mine it looks like I will only have about 1/16" flat Moen flange to flat head flange contact area to make a vacuum-tight seal.

Maybe the Glacier Bay flanges are better...not sure.
Brian

What is the matter with those people?? Don't they know how important it is to get this flange correct for our motorcycle carb intakes!!! :whip: :smilie_happy:

 

[joedrum]

:smilie_happy: :clapping: :mrgreen: