Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive Holley,Weber 740 carb

[westgl]

Excellent Info Ianstaley,

Finding something that can make soldering easier, is a great benefit.

I Soldered boards in defense contractor manufacturing, per Mil. spec. years ago, That is where I met My wife, she did the same.

It is easy when you have the right stuff and equipment.

If you do Not use some sort of flux, to clean the surface's and do not have the proper heat, it will never take the solder, the solder will not flow properly between the two surfaces,

and you will have a cold solder joint that is No dang good.

Soldering to castings can be tough.

Looks like it even solders S.S. NICE!!!!!

 

[Dave_J]

Over the years, I have had to solder many different metals and aluminum was one I tried to avoid. I could solder copper wires to aluminum wires following certain steps of cleaning/fluxing/tinning but to solder two sheets or tubes I would try a chemical bond first. To prep aluminum, you must scrub off the aluminum oxide coating with a clean stainless steel brush and real fast, flux and solder it. If you clean off the oxide layer and wait 10 minuets, the aluminum will re-oxidize and the flux will NOT stick. The boundery layer of oxide will form so quick so you have to have everything ready to go and do it 1-2-3.

This is why an epoxy is used more commonly if you can not Tig (heliarc) weld it.

Now welding aluminum to steel takes skill. It must be cleaned, a special flux applyed, then clamped together with tons of pressure and then an explosive charge is used. I have watched it but never done it.

 

[canuckxxxx]

slabghost » Fri Oct 11, 2013 11:30 pm[/url]":1expg1s1]
could probably use flange plates for one of the inline 4 bike exhaust. Something for a 550 or 650 cc might be a close match.

I know you guys love pictures so here are some shots of the flanges I have made from 2" x 1/4" 6061 T6 aluminum plate. I decided to use the aluminum because I already had it and the 2" width worked out well for making the flanges as you can see from the layout picture.

 

[dan filipi]

canuckxxxx » Mon Oct 14, 2013 5:05 pm[/url]":m0rmegjr]

slabghost » Fri Oct 11, 2013 11:30 pm[/url]":m0rmegjr]
could probably use flange plates for one of the inline 4 bike exhaust. Something for a 550 or 650 cc might be a close match.

I know you guys love pictures so here are some shots of the flanges I have made from 2" x 1/4" 6061 T6 aluminum plate. I decided to use the aluminum because I already had it and the 2" width worked out well for making the flanges as you can see from the layout picture.

Looks good.

Are you going to make aluminum runners?

 

[canuckxxxx]

dan filipi » Mon Oct 14, 2013 5:10 pm[/url]":19uwb1fa]

canuckxxxx » Mon Oct 14, 2013 5:05 pm[/url]":19uwb1fa]

slabghost » Fri Oct 11, 2013 11:30 pm[/url]":19uwb1fa]
could probably use flange plates for one of the inline 4 bike exhaust. Something for a 550 or 650 cc might be a close match.

I know you guys love pictures so here are some shots of the flanges I have made from 2" x 1/4" 6061 T6 aluminum plate. I decided to use the aluminum because I already had it and the 2" width worked out well for making the flanges as you can see from the layout picture.

Looks good.

Are you going to make aluminum runners?

No I am waiting for some 1 1/4" Moen grab bars to arrive. The flange plates are to go over the flanges on the grab bars to reinforce the sealing against the head.

Brian

 

[slabghost]

Good plan. And very nicely made flanges.

 

[canuckxxxx]

Before I got the '82 GW I was into GS Suzukis. Looking through my junk box I came across a GS750 intake boot. (That is the part that bolts to the head and the carb mounts to it). It is a perfect fit on the GW head. It has a 1 1/4" ID.

Just something to add to the knowledge base.

Brian

 

[dan filipi]

canuckxxxx » Tue Oct 15, 2013 7:50 am[/url]":1usngxgr]
Before I got the '82 GW I was into GS Suzukis. Looking through my junk box I came across a GS750 intake boot. (That is the part that bolts to the head and the carb mounts to it). It is a perfect fit on the GW head. It has a 1 1/4" ID.

Just something to add to the knowledge base.

Brian

Well would you look at that!

Certainly adds another option.
Do you know what year it's from?

 

[joedrum]

yes I knew about those things ......

 

[westgl]

Those are the Mikuni Flanges.

They make them in the 60mm size i was looking at them when I started building my single carb.

I have the Part numbers if you want them

But read a lot of reviews, lots of people say they are VERY SOFT, and because they are so soft they do not hold a seal well.

But who knows they may work great

 

[dan filipi]

westgl » Tue Oct 15, 2013 8:22 am[/url]":xsvdwcsk]
Those are the Mikuni Flanges.

They make them in the 60mm size i was looking at them when I started building my single carb.

I have the Part numbers if you want them

But read a lot of reviews, lots of people say they are VERY SOFT, and because they are so soft they do not hold a seal well.

But who knows they may work great

I would think softer would be better for a good seal, unlike the hard stock air horns.

 

[82a]

dan filipi » Tue Oct 15, 2013 9:58 am[/url]":1zzhya99]
Do you know what year it's from?

i think they might be generic and carb size comes into it 32 -34 -36mm?

i have an 82 gs1100 and they are 34mm, lotsa bikes used that carb

 

[westgl]

I was thinking about Trying a couple of shroud plates, one on each side of the engine, for riding during cooler weather.

Putting two panels, one on each side of the engine, covering the opening on both sides of the engine, and enclosing the Single carb inside, with the radiator heat, and also radiated heat off of the engine, for intake heated air.

This would keep more heat in where it is needed, around the carb., the Manifold, and provide more Heated intake air around the whole center section.

This could be a Big help during winter, then remove the two panels when it is warm enough.

This would be like having a engine under the hood of a car where some heat is trapped under the hood.

 

[joedrum]

sheesh a person could seal those mikuni flanges easy ... :shock: :builder: :mrgreen:

 

[westgl]

I have the part number listed that I was going to use over on the Saunders site in that enormous Single carb thread over there, as there is a Mikuni Flange that was a very good fit.

Mikuni makes a few different sizes, that would be a good fit.

 

[joedrum]

yes id have a set if I could get them funds wise right now...plus the type 4 plenum transitions ...I haven't been able to find them :mrgreen:

 

[82a]

westgl » Tue Oct 15, 2013 10:22 am[/url]":1wgkao5n]
Those are the Mikuni Flanges.
But read a lot of reviews, lots of people say they are VERY SOFT, and because they are so soft they do not hold a seal well.

do you mean for non carb applications?

 

[joedrum]

no the rubber transitions for the plenum outlets to the runners

 

[canuckxxxx]

dan filipi » Tue Oct 15, 2013 7:58 am[/url]":28hkl11v]

canuckxxxx » Tue Oct 15, 2013 7:50 am[/url]":28hkl11v]
Before I got the '82 GW I was into GS Suzukis. Looking through my junk box I came across a GS750 intake boot. (That is the part that bolts to the head and the carb mounts to it). It is a perfect fit on the GW head. It has a 1 1/4" ID.

Just something to add to the knowledge base.

Brian

Well would you look at that!

Certainly adds another option.
Do you know what year it's from?

I had a '77 GS750 and a '79 GS850 and they would fit either. You can see the whole assemble if you go to OEM parts on Bike Bandit.

Brian

 

[canuckxxxx]

Something I should point out is that the Suzuki flange does not fit exactly on the middle of the port but is a bit toward the outside. That is because the GW flange bolts are not in line with the centre line of the port. On the second picture I have a pencil line where the edge of the Suzuki flange is.