smoke coming out of ignition module?

[joedrum]

no you are right low resistance coils from stock are the ignition cookers

 

[dan filipi]

Possible a resistor put on those coils you have would be fine but I'd dig into the harness hacks and clean that up working closely with the wiring diagram to make sure it's all connected right.

 

[Ansimp]

This might help understand the problems with incorrect coil matching to ignition systems.
https://www.hot-spark.com/Coil.htm

 

[83gl1200]

thanks guys

I've been reading the neon coil thread at goldwingfacts and am about halfway through. So far what I've learned from there and this thread is that sure enough, others have had the same cdi cooking issue with neon coils and no ballast resistor on gl1200 cdi's. Both neon coils and these 83 coils have primary resistance in the same half an ohm range and require a ballast resistor for a 1200 cdi to run it without cooking. The stock ballast resistor for 83 gl should also work with neon coils too, since they are in the same range.

I also learned I need to check my plug wires and caps resistance and see if I have resistor spark plugs also. Prior to this cdi failure, I had replaced a couple of spark plug caps and I may have a mismatched mixture of resistor caps and non resistor caps. Apparently changing resistance on the secondary also changes draw off the primary and a few things could have contributed to my cdi's death not just one.

And I found this nice wiring diagram in that thread:

 

[Ansimp]

Using the right coils will get you the best spark with the lowest current draw. Using a ballast resistor before the coil just tells me that it is an 8 volt coil instead of a 12v coil. This is only useful if you have a bypass ( the resistor) circuit on cranking so that you get a hotter spark on starting. I personally prefer a 12v coil that is efficient and designed for the system. A reduction in primary voltage will create a reduction on secondary output voltage ( spark)

 

[83gl1200]

Ansimp » Fri Nov 14, 2014 1:50 pm[/url]":1jqs3jgs]
Using the right coils will get you the best spark with the lowest current draw. Using a ballast resistor before the coil just tells me that it is an 8 volt coil instead of a 12v coil. This is only useful if you have a bypass ( the resistor) circuit on cranking so that you get a hotter spark on starting. I personally prefer a 12v coil that is efficient and designed for the system. A reduction in primary voltage will create a reduction on secondary output voltage ( spark)

I see what you mean, and it makes sense.
I'm open to suggestions if you know of a readily available and inexpensive coil that would better match the setup without needing a ballast resistor.

But so far from what I've read in this thread below, neon coils with a ballast resistor and no bypass on gl1200's have made the bikes easier starting than stock. So apparently no bypass circuit is needed.

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-g ... oo-17.html

I still have half the thread to read though...

 

[joedrum]

ok found something that i think is your path ...

https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=18810

this is pretty much entire 1200 iggy system ...pulse generators ..black box and coils ... there is nothing else but wire ... the thread is about chasing the problem ...but the diagram shows whats in the wiring harnest that can screw up inition pulses .....but it clearly shows how to wire up igntion yourself ....but you do need the right coils for a 1200 not a 1100 ..if you had the right coils your black box should work ... theres not much here ... hust go from black box to coils ... people have been burning up there ignition now for several yrs now it is no fix what so ever

 

[dan filipi]

Well it sounds like there is still some homework to be done on this so I'll hold off mailing the 1100 ignition parts.

 

[83gl1200]

dan filipi » Fri Nov 14, 2014 3:08 pm[/url]":3ijw5zlt]
Well it sounds like there is still some homework to be done on this so I'll hold off mailing the 1100 ignition parts.

Please don't. :beg: I want to switch to using the ignitors even though it looks like I can make a new cdi work. I'll be using ignitors with 1100 sensors and ballast resistor and neon coils because that setup is just plain more reliable.

My wiring harness doesn't have all the lines needed for the cdi to know what gear I'm in anyway, so it might not be giving me proper timing advance, or any , even if I replaced the cdi and got it working with a ballast resistor.

 

[dan filipi]

Let's do a list here of everything you need.

I'm putting the rear ignition housing together. Looks like I have everything.
I have 2 ballast resistors also. I'll send the best one.
A good vac advance is coming so your good there.

You need 2 igniters and a wiring harness.
I don't have any spare igniters and the harness has gotten pretty hacked up so you need to source these.

Uh let's see, what else.
There's a bracket the resistor screws to.
I'll look at your earlier pics to see if that's there.

 

[83gl1200]

dan filipi » Fri Nov 14, 2014 5:25 pm[/url]":2en38kyr]
Let's do a list here of everything you need.

I'm putting the rear ignition housing together. Looks like I have everything.
I have 2 ballast resistors also. I'll send the best one.
A good vac advance is coming so your good there.

You need 2 igniters and a wiring harness.
I don't have any spare igniters and the harness has gotten pretty hacked up so you need to source these.

Uh let's see, what else.
There's a bracket the resistor screws to.
I'll look at your earlier pics to see if that's there.

Already bought two ignitors on ebay, found a steal and snagged them a couple days ago. Currently on their way. Supposedly from a running bike with less than 50k on it.

I plan to wire the new 1100 stuff outside the main wiring harness. It doesn't look that complicated, and the neon coils need to run off a relay to take the power draw off of the main harness, ignition switch, and kill switch anyway. This way I can at least temporarily avoid buying and installing a whole new wiring harness. The only thing in the main harness that would be used by the new ignition system is a trigger line for the relay to give power to the coil pack.

I don't know about the resistor bracket, but that sounds like something I could easily do without. I need to make up a new bracket for the neon coils anyway and could have it mount to that.

All I need from you guys is the 1100 rear ignition housing/pickups/vac advance. Oh and the resistor.

I think I even already have enough wire/connectors/metal/relay/and even vacuum hose to complete the project without buying anything else but the neon coils and their input plug.

 

[83gl1200]

dan filipi » Fri Nov 14, 2014 5:25 pm[/url]":4as8940g]
Let's do a list here of everything you need.

I'm putting the rear ignition housing together. Looks like I have everything.
I have 2 ballast resistors also. I'll send the best one.
A good vac advance is coming so your good there.

You need 2 igniters and a wiring harness.
I don't have any spare igniters and the harness has gotten pretty hacked up so you need to source these.

Uh let's see, what else.
There's a bracket the resistor screws to.
I'll look at your earlier pics to see if that's there.

Oh if your hacked up harness has the ignitor plug in's I could use those to make my new wiring too. If not I'll just take the plugs off the ignitors and hard wire them.

 

[sgq700]

if your coil's are like the ebay link you posted, it has a ballast res built on it now?

 

[83gl1200]

sgq700 » Fri Nov 14, 2014 6:44 pm[/url]":u5un7hu4]
if your coil's are like the ebay link you posted, it has a ballast res built on it now?

No, not according to my voltmeter. Both coils read 0.4 ohms, too low for a resistor to be inside them. On the 83 wiring diagram I posted a couple posts back it shows the 83 as having an external resistor, but there isn't one on my bike.

 

[sgq700]

10-4!!

 

[83gl1200]

I just received my new cdi and ignitors. Cdi looks good, i opened it up and all looks good inside. But the ignitors look like they were pulled out of the ocean and quite literally smell like fish. The aluminum casings show signs of saltwater exposure.

Is there a way to test these ignitors off the bike, resistance test or ? I have limited time to return them and probably won't be able to finish the new ignition setup before my return time is up. Are they sealed well enough that they can't be flood damaged?

 

[joedrum]

sparkers are useally the first thing to go on 1100 ignitions

 

[dan filipi]

I'm pretty sure the internals are sealed with an epoxy of some sort, don't take my word on that though.
I don't know of any test for them.

 

[83gl1200]

sparkers are useally the first thing to go on 1100 ignitions

Do you not agree that they go out less often than 1200 cdi's? I wanted the most reliable setup.
When cdi's die they smell burned and you can open them up and see fried parts. When these die I guess being sealed there's no way to tell, other than not getting spark?

dan filipi » Sat Nov 15, 2014 4:41 pm[/url]":25y42de6]
I'm pretty sure the internals are sealed with an epoxy of some sort, don't take my word on that though.
I don't know of any test for them.

Ok thanks. Yes they appear well sealed, just not sure that means submersible and flood proof.

 

[slabghost]

most electric stuff can survive soaking if they aren't powered up when they get wet until they are completely dry. Most of the bad igniters cook out the epoxy and some of those can be refilled and continue use.