Some Seafoam Useage data

[dan filipi]

Seafoam is good stuff but the useage instructions on the can and their website is lacking some specific data on how much to use and how often to use it.

I received 3 documents from Seafoam technical department that helps answer some of these questions.
The reference from the documents appears here in red.
This data is dated September 2007

Sea Foam Motor Treatment used in Crankcase oil
All Gasoline and Diesel, Rotary style engines

Sea Foam Motor Treatment may be used in an oil crankcase 2 separate ways, depending on your needs and expectations.

Sea Foam Motor Treatment is most commonly used as a pre service old oil residue cleaner and moisture drier, and is also used as an after service additive.

1. As a pre service cleaner for old oil residue, sticky rings or valve train noise,
pour 1 _ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of oil capacity including filter. (Diesels use 1 pint to 4 gallons of oil, please) Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, then do your oil change service (LOF). This begins the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. (LOF = Lube oil & Filter service).

2. As an after service additive into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (by mileage), put the same amount of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase as described above, then SELF SET a program to MONITOR your oil for color and clarity on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. (LOF)

Sea Foam Motor Treatment will safely and slowly re liquefy old oil residue, This will make your oil need changing BEFORE your normal scheduled LOF service. Only your monitoring of the oil for color and clarity can tell when it is time to do LOF - oil change service, or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Check your oil and monitor its color & clarity to determine need for LOF service!

Change your oil when it gets dirty!

Technical Services Department
Sea Foam Sales Company
Minneapolis, Minnesota
952-938-4811

So this says Seafoam can be used as a pre oil and filter change flush as well as a longer term cleaner Both in the same concentration (1 ounce).
My thoughts are the same concentration is a bit odd but it does say to change oil when it's dirty so I suppose that could theoretically occur within that 100 miles.
The can and website both say to use 1 1/2 ounces per quart in the oil (average). I'm waiting on a reply from Seafoam to clarify this.

Sea Foam Amounts in Fuel


4 Cycle Type Engines
Diesel
Rotary (Wankel)
2 Cycle type Engines



Sea Foam Products recommends an average of 1 ounce Sea Foam Motor Treatment to each gallon of Gasoline (including 10% & 15% ethanol) and Diesel fuel (including low sulfur & Ultra Low Sulfur blends) including any vehicle or system FACTORY DESIGNED for E-85 fuel.


Parameters are: 1 – 16 ounce can of Sea Foam Motor Treatment to a MINIMUM of 8 gallons of fuel, Maximum 25 gallons fuel to a 16 ounce can for maintenance. Follow the instructions above for OIL INJECTED engines also. (NO Sea Foam Motor Treatment ever goes into the oil reserve tank for oil injection).


***For all gas/oil mixed fuels (2 cycle) and E-85 Ethanol to be used in systems NOT specifically factory designed for E-85 fuels, DOUBLE the amount of Sea Foam Motor Treatment used per gallon.


Sea Foam Motor Treatment is blended OIL, and will not run a gasoline, Gas/oil mix or Ethanol engine without introducing HYDROCARBONS (gasoline) to the mixture at a minimum 50%.


Fuel injector cleaning machines use Sea Foam Motor Treatment as their safe Cleaning agent mixed with gasoline at a ratio of 50% Gasoline & 50% Sea Foam Motor Treatment.



Technical Services Department
Sea Foam Sales Company
Minneapolis, Minnesota
952-938-4811



Sea Foam Uses in Fuels

Sea Foam Motor Treatment #’s SF-16 (16 ounce), SF-128 (gallon container) and
SF-55 (a 55 gallon drum) is used as a fuel additive in Gasoline, Ethanol Blends, Gas/oil mixes & Diesel fuels. This includes all brands and qualities of available fuels.

When added to these fuels, Sea Foam Motor Treatment was specifically designed to Safely do five (5) simple tasks for you. They are:

1. Sea Foam Motor Treatment is a 100% blended petroleum product. That means Sea Foam is OIL, so adding Sea Foam to ANY fuel, adds lubricity for upper cylinders, fuel pumps, and related fuel system components. Most fuels lack lubrication, Advantage: “Sea Foam”.

2. Sea Foam Motor Treatment contains an oil component that dries fuel system moisture. Moisture breaks down into its basic components of hydrogen and oxygen when Sea Foam Motor Treatment is added to any of the above listed fuels, allowing Sea Foam Motor Treatment to help eliminate problems caused by moisture, like diesel fuel gelling and poor run .Advantage: “Sea Foam”.

3. Sea Foam Motor Treatment contains an oil based high detergent fuel residue cleaner. Using Sea Foam Motor Treatment in your fuel system makes that old fuel residue safely back into liquid. Moisture becomes a “non issue” and allows contaminants to be filtered, as engineered by the manufacturer.
Advantage: “Sea Foam”.

4. Sea Foam Motor Treatments exclusive formula is blended specifically to clean carbon out of the engine as the engine is run. This is accomplished by our cleaning oil formula eliminating old sticky oil residue that holds carbon and allowing that carbon to flow out of the engine dust particle by dust particle. Advantage: “Sea Foam”.

5. Sea Foam Motor Treatment adds volatility to fuel and slows down the rate at which that fuel looses its ability to properly burn. When added to fuel and the fuel is in properly sealed containers or fuel systems, Sea Foam Motor Treatment is a fuel stabilizer for up to 2 years. Always run the engine for a long enough period of time to assure the entire system is protected.
Advantage: “Sea Foam”.

Technical Services Department
Sea Foam Sales Company
Minneapolis, Minnesota
952-938-4811

 

[detdrbuzzard]

i usually use 1/2 can up to 2/3 can for dirty carbs and 1/2 can for gas stabelizer

 

[BigAndrew]

In my experience, When first using seafoam on an older bike or one thats sat for awhile Seafoam can clear up too much gunk at once and make you bike run worse, Specially if you tank has surface rust on the inside like mine does

I would recommend using 3 ounces for your first tank or 2 of gas then use the recommended 5

 

[Omega Man]

I use 3oz. a tank every once in a while just to keep her gunk free.

~O~

 

[GL1100A]

I have used Marvel Mystery Oil in the same situations for years. I have had very good results. I think Seafoam is an excellent product as well. Many of these old bikes needs a bit of cleaning out in the fuel system from tank to tailpipe and a bit of lubrication helps in these areas as well. My but dyno seems to always indicate some improvement. I have also used it regularly just before oil changes as described in the text and the inside of my motor is spotless as a result. I was amazed how clean it was inside at twenty five years in service when I changed the water pump. I credit this to the regular use of MMO. Seafoam will do the same thing. I believe this is needed especially because some of these bikes do not see enough miles per year and the resulting oil changes get further apart in some cases.

I DO NOT however, put it in and leave it in for anything over one-hundred EASY miles. MMO thins the oil and I don't feel confident in long term use in the crank case. I run 10W40 and fear thinning too much and loss of protection in hard use and hot weather.

 

[stratocat]

I am considering using Seafoam but after all the issues I have had recently I am a little afraid if will cause more problems. The old girl is running pretty good right now. I've also read the post about using ATF in the fuel. So I'm interested. I even have 2 cans of Seafoam in the garage right now. I'm just a little gun shy and don't want to cause myself anymore trouble. What do you guys reccomend?

 

[dan filipi]

Of all the reading I've done on the forums about Seafoam I've never read of it causing problems with any of the carb seals but I have read cleaners loosening crud up then plugging passages.
I say if the carbs have not been out and thoroughly cleaned but it's running good leave it alone.

 

[yupperdoo]

Way back,my HS Auto shop teacher,retired pro mechanic told us that there ain't many "cure in a can",products that work as claimed...with some exceptions and passed out a short list.Now that was over 4 decades ago but as I recall,Seafoam,Stabil,Heet,WD40 and a couple Casite products pretty much made up the list. Per his belief most other products were either useless or simply masked the REAL problem,letting it worsen.We were too,to substitute a can of ATF for one qt of the 5qts of oil every4-5th oilchange as the super slipperyness an high concentration of detergents there-in would wash lose any contaminents for the filter to catch.

 

[Placerville]

My feeling regarding fuel additives (or any miracle liquid cure) is that those who sell them think they're great. And, (no offense intended) many folks who use them do so only because someone else said they 'swear by them'. I believe that the best source of information for these products is from someone who has no vested financial interest and has a significant background in their use. One of those individuals would be Randakk. Here's what he has to say about them.

 

[dan filipi]

This is a pretty old thread and in that time I've tested Seafoam under different conditions and its cleaning properties as well as a fuel stabilizer.

All of my tests and trials have never given me any improvement that I could honestly say justifies its high cost.

I will not use ANY product that loosens old gummy oil sitting in the engine.
That stuff isn't hurting anything sitting just the way it is, at the bottom of the crankcase, loosening up that gunk is just asking to make it circulate past the bearings which is not good.
Sure the oil filter is suppose to catch it but I see no reason to disturb it.

I am sold on running atf in the fuel.
It not only lubricates the top end but it conditions carb rubber seals and I'm finding out it is a good fuel stabilizer.

8 oz atf to a tank is what I run.

 

[philc]

Before I go ahead and put my freshly cleaned carbs back in the bike (82 GL 1100 59k) Im pondering the idea of cleaning out the fuel tank, fuel pump and petcock. If possible I would like to clean the tank without removing it.
There was some granulated rust bits in the filter under the float needle so Im thinking I should use this oppurtunity to clean as much of the fuel intake system as I can get to. Of course I will be installing a new filter as well.
Any hints/help on how to do a half way decent job without removing the tank is appreciated.
Thanks, Phil

 

[randysway223]

I've found to use a little bit of seafoam can help a lot. However, too much can make your bike run funny. Mine had the engine light come on for about 5 miles. After I rode it out, it finally settled down and was cool again.

 

[user 2950]

Every tank I've ever cleaned has been off the bike. Although I suppose you could use a radiator cleaning technique. I might utilize step one in from one of those three step fuel tank cleaning kits.

 

[OldWrench]

Pro or con I believe there are good arguments on both sides. When I bought my 83 the tank was a mess. The previous owner had attempted to clean it with very little success, I don’t know what method he used. I pulled the tank, (not a fun job) took in to the shop and hot tanked it and finally got it clean. Now with the amount of crud that was in that tank if I had used any chemical to loosen it, I would have plugged up the fuel filter in short order.

Problem two was the starter clutch would not engage at times. I did run Sea Form through the engine, it turned the fresh oil into mud, after the second application I had nearly the same results. I changed to oil and filter for the third time and then ran the bike about six hundred miles and changed the oil and filter again. My oil now stays clean, and I have had no more problems with the starter clutch. In all fairness one of the issues with the starter clutch was a weak battery that was replaced.

I have rebuilt many engines during my career as a truck technician and I’m one that believes in an internally clean engine. Why because the gunk that is some engines can eventually dislodge and cause excessive wear in whatever area they finally lodge, main and rod bearing are one of the main areas.

Now I know there are plenty of opinions on both sides of this debate. Now if you are starting off with a clean engine and fuel system I would not use any additives. After I rebuild an engine, I never recommend additives to the owner, just keep the oil and filter changed as needed.

I guess it kind of goes along the old saying, if it not broke, don’t fix it.

 

[AApple]

OldWrench » Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:57 am[/url]":1p1ook9t]I guess it kind of goes along the old saying, if it not broke, don’t fix it.

Around here, the saying is, "If it ain't broke, fix it until it IS...." :mrgreen:

 

[Ansimp]

Most of my work comes from clients fixing things :yes:

 

[dan filipi]

AApple » Fri Jun 14, 2013 8:32 am[/url]":1svcqn4n]

OldWrench » Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:57 am[/url]":1svcqn4n]I guess it kind of goes along the old saying, if it not broke, don’t fix it.

Around here, the saying is, "If it ain't broke, fix it until it IS...." :mrgreen:

And if you can't fix it, modify it til it works.

 

[OldWrench]

We got a couple of those in my shop, now I know where they came from.

 

[OldWrench]

Most of my work comes from clients fixing things :yes:

Shop Rates

Rate for apprentice 80.00 hr

Rate for Journeyman $100.00 hr

Rate if you worked on it first $120.00 plus lost parts

Rate if you help $150.00

Rate is we didn't fix it right the first time $50.00 hr

One hour minimum with fifteen minute coffee brake and ten minutes of bS

Good Union Shop