If you have the tool kit for the bike, the allen wrench is in there with a socket to drive it with (at least on my 86 Aspy)
Squishy front brake
- Thread starter marcusknight
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Denver
Well-known member
Before you tear into cylinders, do you have a mity vac or a similar type of vacuum pump to bleed your brake & clutch??? Great investment, will give you an answer to weather you have all the of air out of your lines or not. A piece of extra long hose to reach your clutch bleeder is a plus.
marcusknight
Well-known member
Well after having the master cylinder rebuilt, the system is still acting squishy. I have noticed that if I rapidly squeeze the brake handle a few times that it will get a little better for a little while. Thoughts?
its still air in the system ...have to get both piston down all the way in brakes ...then best thing is brake seringe and pust fluid to master cylinder on bars ....there hard to find but if you use one there is nothing better to get air out of bike systems that go uphill to master ...air gets pushed and out the master ...best thing i ever used ....seringe holds plenty of fluid to go all the way to master no air is introduced and bleeding a simple....
Denver
Well-known member
Personally like the Mity Vac better
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- Former '82 GL1100 "The Slug"
Do this:
Take the calipers off the rotors and push the pistons all the way in and clamp them there. Fill the master to the top. Start on the right side caliper and attach a bleeder hose to the bleeder screw and have it collect in a small bottle. (I highly recommend going to an auto parts store and getting the cheap one man bleeder bottle kit since it also has a check valve built in. Usually only runs about $10.)
With the bottle attached, and the bleeder screws closed, master lid off but full of fluid, pull the handle very slowly to get that air bubble out of the return hole. (It should only take about two or three slow pulls.) Put the lid back on the master. Pull the handle all the way to the grip and hold it. Crack the bleeder screw a touch. (You want to begin to see fluid just run out the caliper and fill the hose.) Close the bleeder screw and let go of the handle. DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER GET BELOW HALF! Keep doing this until there is no air coming out. Once there is no air on the right side, pull the handle until it gets firm and only crack the bleeder enough to check for air but not enough to allow the handle to bottom out.
Be sure to keep topping your master when it gets halfway down. (If done correctly, you will have topped the master at least 3 times by now). Switch over to the left side and follow the same procedure. Remember, the pistons need to be clamped in place the whole time. Once you are satisfied there is no air remaining, you should be getting a solid handle now. DO NOT UNCLAMP THE PISTONS UNTIL YOU HAVE A SOLID HANDLE.
Once a solid handle is achieved, install the right caliper with the new pads. Pull the handle slowly until the pads touch the rotors. Add fluid. Install the left side calipers and do the same thing. Top off the master after the pads are seated against the rotors. You should now have a fully flushed front brake system with a solid brake handle.
Take the calipers off the rotors and push the pistons all the way in and clamp them there. Fill the master to the top. Start on the right side caliper and attach a bleeder hose to the bleeder screw and have it collect in a small bottle. (I highly recommend going to an auto parts store and getting the cheap one man bleeder bottle kit since it also has a check valve built in. Usually only runs about $10.)
With the bottle attached, and the bleeder screws closed, master lid off but full of fluid, pull the handle very slowly to get that air bubble out of the return hole. (It should only take about two or three slow pulls.) Put the lid back on the master. Pull the handle all the way to the grip and hold it. Crack the bleeder screw a touch. (You want to begin to see fluid just run out the caliper and fill the hose.) Close the bleeder screw and let go of the handle. DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER GET BELOW HALF! Keep doing this until there is no air coming out. Once there is no air on the right side, pull the handle until it gets firm and only crack the bleeder enough to check for air but not enough to allow the handle to bottom out.
Be sure to keep topping your master when it gets halfway down. (If done correctly, you will have topped the master at least 3 times by now). Switch over to the left side and follow the same procedure. Remember, the pistons need to be clamped in place the whole time. Once you are satisfied there is no air remaining, you should be getting a solid handle now. DO NOT UNCLAMP THE PISTONS UNTIL YOU HAVE A SOLID HANDLE.
Once a solid handle is achieved, install the right caliper with the new pads. Pull the handle slowly until the pads touch the rotors. Add fluid. Install the left side calipers and do the same thing. Top off the master after the pads are seated against the rotors. You should now have a fully flushed front brake system with a solid brake handle.
all i got say is when fluid is pushed uphill air is first thing to hit top at master
Denver
Well-known member
That's true Joe but have not had the luck with this bleeder set up as i thought i would. Not been able to get all air out this way, must be drawing air in through the bleeder threads, as fluid is pumped in, is all that i can figure. :headscratch: Mity vac seems to work better for me, if any leaks at threads, it stops when bleeder is closed, & vac draws air in with tight handles evers:y time. :yes:
