Starter issue

[marcusknight]

Here is a video update on my starting issues. I had a problem (which turned out to be separate from the starter issue) with the stator wires but I was able to fix that and the stator is charging just fine. (above 14 volts).

But the starter still does not want to turn despite having a good charge on the battery.

Wondering if that relay solenoid thing could be bad but I do not know how to test that. My other thought is to rebuild the starter, but I don't want to do that if I don't have to.

Watch the video.

https://youtu.be/X0SYs38fn0E

[video]https://youtu.be/X0SYs38fn0E[/video]

 

[slabghost]

Start solenoid is fine. Either the starter needs rebuilt or fuel has gotten past the carbs giving a partial hydro lock. I always run my 1200 at least 30 seconds after I turn the fuel off for that reason and that is also part of the reason I've never run a tank of gas in it without ATF.

 

[Steve83]

+1 on the starter relay being good. Rebuild the starter. The most difficult part of the job is removing/replacing the starter itself. I've done 2 of them, and they both had loose, overheated connections at the brush leads.

Starter 1

• Steve83
• Aug 14, 2013

A little bit of heat!

 

[marcusknight]

Is there a special rebuild kit for the 1984 starter? Because I thought there were some unique things about the 1984 model.

 

[slabghost]

1100 starter repair kit will work the drive head is different but the starter itself is the same.

 

[marcusknight]

Any thoughts on making sure the starter sprocket thing does not move out of the way when taking the starter off? Many people say that keeping it on the side stand is enough to keep it from moving.

Is it hard to drop the exhaust and move it out of the way? Do gaskets need to be replaced when doing that?

 

[slabghost]

marcusknight » Sun Sep 20, 2015 6:49 pm[/url]":3e6wafpe]
Any thoughts on making sure the starter sprocket thing does not move out of the way when taking the starter off? Many people say that keeping it on the side stand is enough to keep it from moving.

Is it hard to drop the exhaust and move it out of the way? Do gaskets need to be replaced when doing that?

Yes keep it on the side stand that will make it easier. Some can get the starter out with exhaust on and others have to drop exhaust and or remove engine guard. How difficult it is depends on tool quality and accumulated rust. I like Blaster penetrating oil. Exhaust O ring gaskets have been successfully reused.

 

[dan filipi]

12.8 volts is considered to be a fully charged battery. Your's was 12.2 which they say is about 75% charged, maybe more like 50%.
During crank it went down to 9.2 volts, then after crank it was 11.8 volts which is well discharged for that short cranking time.
Did you fully charge the battery before using it?
Most wet cell batteries need a full saturation charge when new.
I would put an automatic 2 amp charger on it over night then see what you get because I don't think the oldwing charging system is capable of properly charging a new battery.

 

[slabghost]

Good point!

 

[marcusknight]

Just charged the battery overnight for 12 hours on 2 amps. No change in the starter. None at all.

I think I am going to proceed with the starter rebuild. Unless there is some electrical connection to going to the starter that is corroded? But I doubt it.

 

[dan filipi]

The engine side of the ground cable contact is a possible source of a corroded connection.

 

[slabghost]

Starter internal ground straps go bad in these. And starter mount bolts complete the ground.

 

[marcusknight]

Well I can see where the ground wire goes to from the battery. Looks like it is mounted under a three bolted bracket on the left side of the engine.

I am worried about what this bracket does. How safe or unsafe is it to remove it to clean the ground connection to the engine?

 

[joedrum]

dont worry at all ...

 

[marcusknight]

what does this rod do that connects one side with the bracket to the other side of the engine?

 

[dan filipi]

marcusknight » 3 minutes ago[/url]":1iz68p5t]
what does this rod do that connects one side with the bracket to the other side of the engine?

That's a long bolt that extends from bracket to bracket. It doesn't need to be removed to take that triangle plate off if the nut loosens up but even so, the entire bolt can come out with no worries. The engine will stay in place.
Loosen both triangle brackets, that helps loosen the long bolt so it all comes apart.

 

[joedrum]

yes it is upper motor stabilizer not really a mount ...loosen the outer bolts first on ground wire side ..you will see nothing moves ...and yes if you want whole deal can come out and motor will go nowhere