Starter Solenoid "CLICK" but no starter movement Changed To Ford F150 Solenoid

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

westgl

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2012
Messages
1,225
Reaction score
0
Location
Oregon
My 83' GL1100 Starter Solenoid would only "CLICK" but no starter movement Changed To Ford F150 Solenoid.

Nice thing is Starter Solenoid or I will refer to it as SS, can be bought at any Napa or other auto parts store anywhere!!

Availability is excellent!!

Here is what happened in the past!
I bought a new Starter Solenoid from EBAY, one of those like OEM Honda Starter Solenoids, that are new BUT made in China.

I bought a second SS from Sleeze Bay, it died shortly after installing it also, I have had it with Cheap Chinese crap.

No insult to anyone Chinese, but I want quality, that lasts, I dont care where it is made.

Those Ebay Chinese Starter solenoids are CRAP!!!!!

They Dont last very long at all.

In talking to SlabGhost, thanks Slab,

I have changed the Starter Solenoid to a Ford F-150.

Here is the wiring info,

1. I had to break out the 30 amp main fuse, as the Ford SS does not have a fuse, i just added a 30Amp fuse and Fuse Holder.

I connected the Red & Red/White wires together and they connected to the 30 amp main fuse, other end connected directly to the POS battery terminal.

2. Green/Red wire hooked to the metal base plate of Ford SS, (this is a Not a grounded base) this can/could be coated with Ultra Black silicone and let dry.

3. Yellow/Red wire gets hooked up to smaller wire terminal on Ford SS to the "S" terminal.

Then the two main POS Power cables get hooked up,

One from the Battery POS terminal to one main Larger tap and the other main tap gets the Main cable from the Starter POS to the other side of the SS main larger tap
 
In the pictures above you can see there is a mounting plate that has a mounting hole on two sides one facing toward the side cover and one that is facing toward the frame.

The mounting toward the frame I will cut off with my dremel cut off wheel, to provide more frame to solenoid clearance.

I slit a piece of vacuum line length wise on one side about 4" long that was spread and slid over the Battery box edge so the Starter Solenoid had a dampener and was above ground, as the SS base plate, should NOT BE GROUNDED!!!!!

Then I will use a Ty wrap to hold the SS in place.

I still need to apply a thin coat of Ultra black to the bottom base of the SS.
 
Yes it should last a long time.

But the great part is Napa has them, no wait for delivery.

It Spins the Starter motor Very Fast!!

Much Faster than the Imported unit did.

It starts Instantly.

Thanks again slab for the Idea.

Nobody shows how to wire up the Ford SS that I could find

So hopefully this will help someone out
 
On mine I left everything as is on the Ford solenoid and mounted it to the plastic fender well which insulates the metal coil ground base from ground then attached the ground side of the start circuit to the metal base.
Has been working fine for years but when I did the C5 install I noticed the plastic fender well had a crack in it.
Solenoid mounting is still solid though.
 
That may be a good way to go Dan as the solenoid unmodified has a 3year warranty on it that i dont want to void.

I think it will last much more than 3 years now anyway.
 
While I was doing my SS,

I decided to take apart my Ignition switch and clean all corrosion off of the contacts & check condition, just to make sure all is good, for starting then coated with Die electric grease.

all switches have been done previously.

 
The Great thing is any Auto parts store has them.

Mine is on a 83' GL1100, but this could work on a GL1000, GL1100, GL1200, GL1500 very nicely
Ford Starter Solenoid's

Any of the Starter Solenoids listed below, will work, they all have taps on top

I bought mine at Napa Auto Parts

Generic Part number
SS-613T Cheapest
SS-598T better
STH404 Best 3 year warranty, is what I used
 
Top