Switching to Synthetic today...

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Omega Man

Omega Man

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I'm going to give Valvoline's 20W50 4-Stroke Synthetic Motorcycle Oil a try.

(Taken from the ad)
Valvoline 4-Stroke Synthetic Motorcycle Oils are designed specifically for motorcycles. Motorcycles place special demands on engine oil that automotive oils are not designed to handle. The wet clutch system, high RPMs and temperatures,and metals found in motorcycles require special properties for proper performance and protection.
Valvoline 4-Stroke Synthetic Motorcycle Oil, 20W50:

•Formulated for the specific needs of motorcycles
•For high temperatures, high RPMs, and wet clutch systems
•Synthetic formula maximizes power and acceleration
•Outstanding wet clutch protection
•Maximum power transfer and smooth shifting
•Added protection against harmful deposits that can decrease engine performance
•Excellent wear and corrosion protection

I'll let ya know what I think later today.

~O~
 
My experience with 20/50 is the starter clutch doesn't like it when cold, causes the clutch rollers to hang up.
I've never tried synthetic though.
Curious how it works out for you.
 
My experience with synthetic oils was overall good.Started easier revved quicker. But if there is one iffy place on any gasket that stuff managed to get by a little (drip).
 
The reason I didn't try that was because it was 20w50. I think the climate I live in is too cool for that. So I ended up with the other brand Autozone had for Motorcycle oil. But I don't think it was synthetic.
 
Well, I couldn't even find that product...so I got the non-synthetic equivalent. Had go to 4 different stores just to find a filter, but finally found it for $6(got 2 on order). I was going to do a pictorial of a tear down of the filter used in the last 3 oil changes(3 with the same filter),but I was so messy I skipped it. I can tell you all that Fram filter was very well made with tough materials. I now have no problem using this filter 3 times before replacing. Read a lot of bad opinions on this filter too, I'm starting to doubt the wisdom of "Public Opinion."

~O~
 
Omega Man":3r1ecpur said:
I'm starting to doubt the wisdom of "Public Opinion."

~O~
Click to expand...

Yes!
In fact that is the very reason I edited the description of our forum!

With so much wrong information on the net, I created this forum to provide owners with the most accurate information available to us for the flat 4 Goldwings.
This community consists of like members restoring and improving them on a small budget.

I too find that there is an awful lot of opinion out there, I like facts and strive to back them up with concrete evidence.
I've found many cases where one persons opinion or fluke bad experience turned into fact, not good enough for me.
 
Omega Man":t5jiyae1 said:
I was going to do a pictorial of a tear down of the filter used in the last 3 oil changes(3 with the same filter),but I was so messy I skipped it. I can tell you all that Fram filter was very well made with tough materials. I now have no problem using this filter 3 times before replacing. Read a lot of bad opinions on this filter too, I'm starting to doubt the wisdom of "Public Opinion."
Click to expand...

Curiosity remains. What was it you were wanting to show me in your old filter? And, why do you change your oil and not the filter? I'm not asking you to defend your position, just looking for your point of view. Who knows? I might be wasting filters.
 
I wanted to see if anything was in there after 3 oil changes, but there wasn't anything. Thought there might be some of that chunky carbon stuff mentioned in the past. After a year of use it was in great shape, the element was darker(than a 3 mo. old) but otherwise fine.

Why? When I was changing with every oil change, I noticed the one coming out was nearly as new as the replacement. The only difference seemed to be one was wet and slightly discolored. Here we are a year later, and I'm convinced one doesn't have to change them every time.

Not endorsing it to anyone, just documenting "my" experience.

~O~
 
Hmmm...something to think about on the filter reuse issue. I might consider that when I get to a point of using the same type oil every time.

On the synthetic note, I tried Mobil 1 and immediately noticed improved clutch operation. Engagement felt very noticeably smoother. My next oil change I decided to try motorcycle oil. To me it feels the same as the car oil I was using before. I think next I will try synthetic MC oil.
 
I change my oil & filter often and have a good idea of whats in there. I'm more concerned with keeping that much remaining dirty used oil in there to contaminate the new. In my mind it defeats the purpose of the oil change, but if I could manage to get past that mindset to save $6...? I change my GW oil about every 1,000 miles. Is what remains in the filter really that bad?
 
i'm using castrol 4T 10W40 in my wing and it seems to hold up well here in the heat of texas. as for the filter i change it when i change oil, force of habit. will have to check it out on the next oil change and see what it looks like, maybe i can change filter every other time. thanks for the info.
 
As far as not seeing anything in the filter....remember these filters are down at what I think is at least the 20 micron level if not lower...not really gonna see much, doesn't mean there isn't anything there. The point about the bypass opening is very important! Parially clogged filter can open the bypass at high RPM and you would not know it.

Recent example (not a MC) I have overssen and delivered a new ferry to Rio Vista California that is 100% hydraulically operated. The secondary hydraulic system has a bypass filter. The filter is a 10 micron filter and there should have been a pressure differntial switch to notify the crew that the filter was clogging. It went into bypass mode for a week at full RPM as the filter clogged with minute debris (undetectable by eye). With filter in bypass, the debris passed into the resevoir unfiltered and ultimately wiped out the main hydraulic pump! Everything had to be pulled, cleaned and replaced and a very high cost!

My point....do not underestimate the damage possible if an oil filter goes into bypass and assuming that we do not "See" anything in the filter that it is still OK.

These 1100 engines are tough as nails and can take quite a bit of abuse before there is a problem, (My knocking '81 engine proves that) but why even take the chance?
 
Good point Gerry, I am a forklift mechanic and i would never change oil and reuse an old filter. Though i don't go to the extreme of changing it every 1,000 miles either, i go 2000-3000 between changes.
 
scdmarx":1wsmuj9t said:
mcgovern61":1wsmuj9t said:
a pressure differntial switch to notify the crew that the filter was clogging.
Click to expand...

What happened? Somebody fell asleep at the wheel?
Click to expand...
Yeah...literally! What actually happened is the main propulsion system has an auxiliary system for raising the propulsion drive units and there is a seperate "auxiliary" system to run the ramps on either end of the boat and the fire pumps. Both systems were labeled "Auxiliary" with the differential alarm up in the wheelhouse only ringing on the propulsion system auxiliary. Since both systems run off the main engines and have alarms in the wheelhouse, it was assumed that the alarm labeled "pressure differential - auxiliary" met the specifications. The shipyard and the Inspector (Me!) signed off on the OEM installation since it met the specifications for the alarm. But the OEM did not tell us that the alarm was only on the propulsion system.
 
Cal science has a real good site on Oil filters. Myself living in AZ I use the 20-50 Mobil Syn M/C Oil. It sure has made the engine a lot quieter as lots of my riding buddies have commented on that fact. Seems to shift easier when warmed up. I put the Randak spin on filter adapter on which makes it very easy to change when doing the oil every 3-4 Thousand miles. Can't see why anyone would not change the filter given the miniscule cost of it. That's just me though. I use syn everywhere I can on the Bike. The leaking caused by syn is temporary. What happens is the syn cleans deposits away from seals and allows small amounts of oil to pass. When the syn has the chance to do its job it actually allows the seals to become supple and expand. If you noticed that with your car then you know the deal. Also you CAN mix Dino and Syn as long as its the same viscosity. :wave:
 

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