Top end rebuild cost? 82 1100

shop deals on amazon
Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
P

philc

Well-known member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2011
Messages
95
Reaction score
0
Location
Portland, Oregon
My 82 1100 seems to be low on compression, I got 120lbs on all four, well one was 119lbs but very close.
The engine has 59k on it.
If I have to pull the engine to rebuild it I will have to drop the engine off at a shop.
I work too much to get into that.
Does anyone know roughly what that will cost?
Of course local labor rates fluxuate, I am thinking $80 per hour.
The parts needed I can only guess at..$400, 500, 700?
thanks in advance
phil
 
First things first....when you did the compression test, was the engine fully heated up and did you run the test with the throttle turned wide open? (I do not want to make any assumptions on your skill set)

With 59K miles on the engine, unless it has been sitting for a very long time unused, I would not be prepared to start a top end rebuild unless really needed.
 
well rebuild is rough in finding parts but some do get it done ....lets say honda you be the last place to take it they have abandon the oldwings ...id say it might just need to be tweaked soom to work
 
The compression almost always comes up on these engines with running hours.
"Has it been sitting" and for "how long" are key questions here.

Unless the engine was seriously abused or had water corroding the cylinders, I doubt it needs rebuilding and can be brought back to life to last many 10's of thousands of miles.

Now if that 59k miles is actually 159k, could be a different story.

Valves out of adjustment can have a big affect on compression.
Have you set them?
 
As for mileage, I have to believe that 59k is the actual mileage, its no show winner but I would think that many more parts, fasteners, bearings would be totally shot at 159k.
There isnt very much rust either, but it spent its first years in the Antelope Valley.
I did do a valve adjustment some months ago, not to brag but I have adjusted alot of different bike valves, both shim under bucket and screw type adj. so I feel confident that I got it right.
Of course there is always room for "stand back I know what I am doing" -itus to effect my performing the valve adj. :thank_you:

The engine was VERY cold, 27-30 degrees F
I did my best to hold the throttle wide open, maybe I failed to do that so I will mechanically (zip tie it open?) fix it open next time.
i read somewhere that a warm engine brings compression DOWN? so I did it cold, late one night.
If its true that running hours brings the compression up then I will probably replace the original coils, wires and battery before firing it up for some lengthy road runs.
Its impossible for me to say if it sat for any length of time.
thanks again people
phil
 
philc":vgudy6fb said:
The engine was VERY cold, 27-30 degrees F
Click to expand...
120 at 27-30 degrees, should be fine! (What is the weight of the oil in there? I would think that the oil was so thick at that temp that the engine was not quite spinning up to speed for a good compression test.)

I was always taught to do a compression test with the engine hot so that all of the metal was expanded to normal size while operating. My '83 engine was doing 140's at 50 degrees and high 160's when hot.
 
120 and consistent across all 4 jugs sounds OK, but if it's sat for any length of time, it may have the same issues my 81 has. The rings get a little hung up in their grooves and don't seal up as well after a while parked in a barn. Mine also suffers from a PO who drove it like my grandma, so the valves are coked up and don't seat properly.
The rings should loosen on their own -- I've also heard that replacing a quart of oil with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil and taking it for an easy 100-mile or so ride (or a few, up to 100) will loosen up the rings. Just keep it low on the throttle and change the oil after the hundred miles. If it's really sat forever, you may need to do the MMO more than once.
As for the valves, you'll need to decide how bad they are. They may clean up on their own with use, but the process can be expedited. Honda doesn't recommend trying to grind these valves, but if there's some carbon build-up on the seats a little valve-grinding paste will work it off without getting too radical. You can test to see if they seat OK before you get into it by pouring a little rubbing alcohol into each port and see if it leaks past the valve. If they seal against alcohol, they'll seal against anything. Here's what I started with. Sorry, no after pics yet but just picture a new head and you'll be close...
IMAG0167.jpg

Steve
 
Good info. thanks.
Seems that I ought to try a few more things before I start pulling things apart.
I have to get into the clutch to replace the plates and according to the manual that means pulling the exhaust system off, if I go that far I was thinking I should just go ahead and pull the engine rather than do the whole exhaust process twice, but I am probably underestimating the engine exstraction time.

Its true it has done alot of sitting since I bought it, I rode it to Yosemite from Portland in 2011 but not a whole lot since then, endless rainy work weeks getting in the way, but would ride it alot more if only the starting/warming process wasnt so darned long and tricky! Its a pain to spend 15 minutes just to get it idling for a 6 mile ride to work. It wont start without choke (unless its 75 F. or more) but seems to "load" up and run really rich almost instantly (upon choking) then it takes 6-12 minutes to get it leaned out again.

The fuel, oil and air filter are all newish/2011 as are the plugs and caps.
I did run some Seafoam in the oil for 100 miles last Summer to try to help the clutch, guess its time to do it again, should I put some Seafoam in the fuel? I dont want to damage any new rubber parts in the carbs so I am reluctant.
The battery isnt 100% and may have hindered the cranking process during my compression test, next time I will check it after the engine is warm.
Can a faulty fuel pump cause the carbs to run really rich at start up?
Have not pulled the coils yet to check for cracks, maybe this week.
The KLR gets more road time but its still fun to imagine the Wing running well and cruising the open road soon, so I will keep hacking at it in my spare time.
Thanks for your help.
 
sounds like weak ignition to me ...its probably timw to redo it ...when wings run good on top and crappy at start up and rich acting lots of unburnt fuel can be there from weak ignition ...ralay the ignition is a great mod to do ...brings hotter spark to the game
 
philc":pl7ac2hk said:
if only the starting/warming process wasnt so darned long and tricky! Its a pain to spend 15 minutes just to get it idling for a 6 mile ride to work. It wont start without choke (unless its 75 F. or more) but seems to "load" up and run really rich almost instantly (upon choking) then it takes 6-12 minutes to get it leaned out again.
Click to expand...
Carbs are out of adjustment. I too need to use a full choke no matter what the outside temp, but it clears within minutes. I would bet that your floats are not set right and you have gas leaking by when sitting.
 
Man o Man I spent some time carefully adjusting the floats, I used a caliper and rechecked em twice.
I think I used Randakks instructions on how to set them too, making sure to stand the carbs on end, etc.
Anyway, Im OK with replacing the coils and installing new floats and adjusting them again if it
means a smooth starting bike.
I would lean towards the Dyna coils from what I have read.
 

Latest posts

Top