Two things valves and clutches

[ianstaley]

Hi all so a couple of questions about two entirely different things, so the easy one first. Now my bike (engine) has been standing around for well over the sell by date. As most will know she is slowly being rebuilt. Theory the engine was running okay when parked up so should be no different now. However some items may well be past saving and for that reason and the amount of money she has cost up to now, no point in spoiling the machine buy penny pinching.

So on the clutch I have bought a complete set of new clutch plates, now in between there are steel plates, they should have nothing wrong with them but now comes the sting in the tail I have read somewhere about one plate that is different to all the rest and I am sure someone said just replace it with a steel one. I am correct in that assumption.

Now part two of the question. as these bikes were made at the time of Premium, or 98 octain and 95 octain petrol lead free wasn't available over here on Europe for a long time after the bike was originally sold. What about valves and valve seats in our bikes, if they were never meant to run on lead free and now ethanol I think petrol what is the opinion of the members on make the effort and change the seats and the valves? :read:

Ian

 

[dan filipi]

I haven't done that deal of putting another steel plate in place of the special plate but it seems to me one plate would be too thin because that special plate is 2 steel plates thick.

If memory serves, lead was used as a lubricant for the valves and guides but I've never read any real problem not having it in these engines.

 

[slabghost]

From the heads I've seen lately I don't see any issues at all on the fuel affecting the valves. What it does affect is the rubber bits because of the blasted ethanol. I think I read that one special plate was replaced with another fiber plate. Supposedly made the clutch hold a little better. I've not had to do more than adjust the clutch on any bike yet though.

 

[Denver]

Believe your talking about the damper plate, :headscratch: N G W's bin that damper plate will go over it. :yes: But basicly replace it with two steel plates, one where the damper was, & the other on the end of stack. The plate can't turn in the stack, & fiber plate hits the steel plate held in place by the basket grooves, haven't done it yet, but have the steel plates for it, the next time the clutch, or motor has to have work done. :whistling:

 

[Old Fogey]

For Heavens sake Ian, how many times have you been on WinGovations?

Here's the info on the clutch: https://www.wingovations.com/clutch-plat ... 4579471089

All Wings were designed from the outset to use unleaded fuel. That is why you should never grind valves, as they have a thin coating of Stellite on the seat faces.

 

[Ansimp]

Old Fogey » Mon Feb 01, 2016 6:26 am[/url]":21eula9y]
For Heavens sake Ian, how many times have you been on WinGovations?

Here's the info on the clutch: https://www.wingovations.com/clutch-plat ... 4579471089

All Wings were designed from the outset to use unleaded fuel. That is why you should never grind valves, as they have a thin coating of Stellite on the seat faces.

:good:

 

[ianstaley]

Looks like I got my arse kicked there John so now I have read your explanation, as yet I don't even know if the clutch needs doing, and I think I said it sat in the back of my mind so have probably read it before on wingovations. As for the valves ok so they are safe, I know of several 70 early 80's cars that have had hardened rings fitted in to the cylinder heads because of the unleaded problem, a lot of the were Volvo's, my old V8 rover had to have the ignition retarded because of that very reason of pinking and over run. So as the bike is from the same ere may be they had the same problem. Now I know I don't have to worry when I get back into the garage to do some work. So going to source a couple of steel plates but until I look I won't know for definite. Ah John have you ordered the discs for me my friend. So I can tell you what is going to happen this week, I will start on the forks rebuild as I can do that in my tiny workshop in the house. Thanks for all the comments and I like it when you lot of m8ts tell it like it is. I am not an engineer well only a software engineer. Hard engineering is just a hobby. Getting very forgetful in my twilight. Thanks again guys.
Ian

 

[ianstaley]

Just a quick ask of John, do you know this company, I am aware you live i Glasgow but I also know it is a big place. any info would be greatful.


Ian

East End Radiators
3 Milnbank Street
Dennistoun
Glasgow
G31 3AQ

 

[ekvh]

We're not forgetful. We just have waaaay more data in our heads to go through and find what we are looking for. When a computer's memory gets bogged down, it's slow too. Just like Apple products, sometimes you need to turn it off, wait, and then restart.

 

[Old Fogey]

Ian, it's nice to be kicking instead of being kicked! :hihihi:

I probably have spare steel plates.

I have not ordered your discs. Been ill all week, off to visit the Oldies in Worcester tomorrow for a few days so I'll do it when I come back.

I have heard of the company but not had any dealings with them.

 

[ianstaley]

Old Fogey » Mon Feb 01, 2016 1:32 am[/url]":2t3konl7]
Ian, it's nice to be kicking instead of being kicked! :hihihi:

I probably have spare steel plates.

I have not ordered your discs. Been ill all week, off to visit the Oldies in Worcester tomorrow for a few days so I'll do it when I come back.

I have heard of the company but not had any dealings with them.

That's okay John, just get better as I said I have time and I am not waiting for them, I can use the old ones to line every thing up so not a problem. Thanks for the honesty regarding the rad company, they told me the would charge about £300 for a total new build I assume using the original top and bottom reservoirs. So that is a lot cheaper than any other quote I had, I even had one quote for £1500.00 serious. And as yet it is too cold to go into my garage no heat, no light and no way right now to get it out and take a look, and I want to blast the engine first with very fine media, so I need to make sure all entrances are blocked off to stop ingress. Thanks anyway and let me know when the discs arrive . Ian

 

[Old Fogey]

Ian,
Use Soda. No matter how well you think you have sealed it up, grit will get in. You only need one bit to wreck bearing!
Soda blasting is a bit slower, but will all wash away and not leave you with problems later.

 

[ianstaley]

Old Fogey » Mon Feb 01, 2016 8:14 pm[/url]":3ffe9kt6]
Ian,
Use Soda. No matter how well you think you have sealed it up, grit will get in. You only need one bit to wreck bearing!
Soda blasting is a bit slower, but will all wash away and not leave you with problems later.

Humm you know I have been thinking for a long time about a soda system, I wont be buying a set piece from anywhere like sealey system but I do think that is the better way. Seen it used on an old car with very thin tin work, the results were good not too much damage to the very thin bits around the holes. My biggest problem is water and electricity. I have neither at the lock up. and I can't lift that engine on my own any more. I probably could have done it when I was a lot younger than today. I think I might just ask one of the people that live close by if I can use their water and electricity.

So thanks for that pearl of wisdom John. :clapping: :salute:

 

[Denver]

Saw a homemade soda blaster on the computer several months ago. :wave: Used a couple pieces of hose, air gun,(the type to squirt air) compressor, soda, & container to hold soda, was about it for parts. Looked like it should work pretty well, considering you probably have most of the needed parts laying around already, except maybe the soda, :headscratch: have to buy some of that anyway. :yes:

 

[ianstaley]

As it happens I have probably 100% except media. My only problem is some Youtube vids suggest to use water as well or maybe I haven't seen it properly, but one thing I am looking at is a gravity feed soda gun, real cheap in the states. Take a look on Youtube. The one I saw makes a good argument for it, I E less CFM's needed. The only problem is you run out fairly quickly, but the big advantage is why do I need a semi pro set up, how often will I use it. So I am looking at getting one of these https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IokSBX3ETRc it is typical Harbour freight.
Plenty of others in the States.

 

[slabghost]

Might be able to use powder clothes detergent. That way when you rinse it all off it mixes with the water and washes away.

 

[ianstaley]

I think I am going to take John's advice and go to soda, I can get a 25 kilogram bag for a £1 a kilo which is cheap. I have seem them advertised at 25Kg for 60 pounds or more. So all I need is the soda.

I have one of these already and with my compressor it works very well with fine sand media, so with soda should work too.

My Portable Media Blaster

and the soda at £24.50 for 25 Kg.

So will let you know how it goes on my build Thread.

 

[slabghost]

I'm planning to try laundry soap powder because I can't find soda in bulk here.

 

[Old Fogey]

slabghost » Thu Feb 04, 2016 5:01 pm[/url]":slxotehz]
I'm planning to try laundry soap powder because I can't find soda in bulk here.

Try granulated sugar. Seriously! it works.

 

[joedrum]

hmmm sounds like a sweet idea :hihihi: