(UK) 1977 GL1000 Goldwing

[lmg]

13-JAN-12

Dismantled the Bates pannier racking system today between jobs at work. Went from this:

To this:

I had to use my new mini butane gas gun to free up some of the pipes and bolts - well they are 35 years old.

Next job is to get the battery out and check its condition and if possible charge it up.

Im also going to finish the strip down of the GSX frame - front end off, wheels off, etc.

 

[lmg]

4-FEB-12

Had a couple of hours trying to get the '77 GL1000 fired up.

First checked to see if the engine would turn over by manual spining the rear wheel. The engine just about moved, but the back wheel was stiff.

Next we hooked up the new charged battery. Tried the ignition - nothing. OK, Steve set at the electrics and found that either the starter button wiring or the solenode was duff. Having said that we still managed to turn the engine over by jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver. The engine turned over but it didnt fire.

Next we checked the fuse panel. On the GL1000, the fuse board is located under the left false fuel tank panel. You can see them in the 3rd picture above. Some of the fuses werent present, so a quick trip down to Motorsave got a selection of glass fuses. Still no joy getting the engine started.

We next checked to see if we got a spark by shorting a spark on the engine whilst turning it over. We had a spark. We also found that under the right false fuel tank panel there is a removable kick start in case the battery dies when your out.

We then fed some fuel in to each pot and tried turning it over - a better noise but still the engine didnt fire up. We determined that the carbs need a complete service. Steve reckoned that with a stronger battery the engine would fire up. Perhaps when its not freezing outside and about to snow!! We also checked the fuel pump - yep, it was working. Steve also checked the carb bowl to see if any fuel was present - it was.

 

[lmg]

10-JUN-12

Steve and I got the GL1000 started up after 15 years of not running. New solenoid fitted, and a fully charged battery and some fuel syringed in to the pots. The bike had to flush through all the stale fuel from the system, but eventually it fired up. The first few minutes there was enough pollution coming out of the backend to deplete the ozone layer. We also found that the rear sections of the exhaust system have a LOT of holes in them as about 2 litres of "shit" fell out of them when the bike finally caught. The following video was after the bike had been running for 5 minutes or so....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PxG80b408A&feature=youtu.be

 

[lmg]

4-NOV-12

I have failed to update this thread with my progress on my '77 GL1000, so here we go.....

[move][glow=red,2,300]22-Aug[/glow][/move]

Carbs from the GL1000 are now setup and ready to go on the engine. The GL1000 carbs have the plastic "button" on the top of each unit - the original GL1100 carbs are flat metal on the top:

I need to find out what these areas are for on the GL1000 carbs?

Engine is now on the workbench:

Parts like this need to be cleaned up and painted:

Timing belt covers (x2) taken off to show light surface rusting of the pullies which need addressing, but the belts look new so perhaps the previous owner did them prior to selling?

Pot caps have come off in order to renew the gaskets and to get powdercoated along with the cambelt covers. A world of tapets to explore:

[move][glow=red,2,300]18-Sept[/glow][/move]

Lost out on a ubercheap Marshall exhaust for a GL1000 (£60!) but managed to get a headlight and a replacement locking mechanism for my dummy tank lid.

Really do need to sort out the remainder of the stuff which needs powdercoating which need to include:
Handlebars
Foot pegs
Handlebar clamps
Headlight bowl and new one (when it arrives)
I also need to consider the cut down of the rear mudguard and the seat for the bike, as this will dictate the paint scheme. The painter I have in mind did a great job for a friend of mine and is nearby so I can work with him a bit more.

I am also hoping to get a freshly powdercoated frame with its centre stand cut off - shall see at the end of the week.

Powdercoating:

[move][glow=red,2,300]29-Sept[/glow][/move]

Result!

Just need to get the engine cleaned and painted and swap the timing belts out, and setup the carbs and we can get it in the frame and have a roller

[move][glow=red,2,300]25-Oct[/glow][/move]

Got me a set of Jardines for £180 off of Ebay - just cant say no at that price....

still kicking myself for missing the £60 Marshall exhausts though

Also got me a shitty seat to work on making it custom for £10.50

Going to get the hammer on it and try and make it in to a bitchin cafe-esque seat ... hopefully

[move][glow=red,2,300]2-Nov[/glow][/move]

£180 got me this set of Jardines (and thats CHEAP). There is some surface corrosion at the top of the headers - which is too be expected since the exhaust outlets on the GL1000 are facing down towards the road surface and therefore these headers are going to get a shedload of road debris on them.

The style is what I was looking for - long straight and runs parallel with the ground...

The headers do pick up a load of road debris on these bikes (and any bike where the exhaust outlets are so near to the ground and which make the headers get even nearer the ground):

Cant do much with the inside of the ends except for clean them up, mask the pipes, and spray exhaust paint (black and good to 600c) on them:

I plan to exhaust wrap them in black fibraglass exhaust material. There are a load of "how to" videos on YouTube and wrap is quite cheap. I also reckon the contract of Jardines chrome endcans (or at least half of them) with the black of the exhaust wraps all the way to the headers will provide a nice contract to the blackness of the bike - very much like the chrome of the fork stanchions....

I thought I had procured the correct replacement locking mechanism from a supplier, but I found I got everything else apart from the lock : plus the box of cotter pins I had planned to use for securing the side flaps of the false tank on are about 5mm too short : : so need to get myself to toolstation to see if this lock will fit...

Measuring the existing one, I think the 27mm will fit but who knows until I check it out.... Its also highly likely that I will have to cannablise the "tongue" part of the lock since the new one is not the same shape - I might end up having to use the original tongue.

Cam covers and carbs finished

[move][glow=red,2,300]4-Nov[/glow][/move]

Only a quick "goldie" session today. Steve and I stripped down the goldies wheels in readness for degreasing, cleaning, and then powdercoating (once I decide what colour to get them done in).

These wheels are rare Lester Alloys - the original GL1000 came with spoked wheels, and then after Honda noticed a number of 3rd party suppliers coming out with cast and mag wheels for the goldie, they released the bikes with so-called "comstar" alloy wheels (I have one of these coming with my 99p rear GL1000 ebay win).

(notice the ltd edition SYDs brew mug in the background )

We took the tyres off ourselves with the use of my vice and Steves "Lada" tyre levers. The tyres themselves are in good condition so will be reused (hopefully)...

The rear tyres seems to have puncture weld inside it (the creamy white liquid sloshing around) so I will need to locate the puncture and get it plugged properly....

In order to get the bearings out we needed to remove some very weird dustcaps (screwed in) which we had to drift them out! The discs had bolts which went through one disc, through the wheel, and protruded out the other disc to be bolted down.

Not sure if the discs are still usable - they might skim up, then again, new ones arent that much money in the scheme of things...

Next job is the get these cleaned up and powdered - and whilst thats going on, I need to clean service and paint the calipers.

 

[lmg]

26-NOV-12

After Steve and I manged to get the seized caliper pistons out of the GL1000 calipers (by compressed air and/or the grease gun method) I put them in to soak in petrol for 24 hrs to break down the grease. I next washed them off and put them in my "special" industrial degreaser for 48hrs..... This degreaser is SERIOUSLY strong! Its eaten through all the grease and most of the paint. The caliper are going to need to be either sanded down or sandblasted in my opinion. I dare say that this liquid would dissolve a human body given a few days!

This is what the rear (largest) caliper looked like before I started...

Having bought a air compressor and associated tools a couple of years ago, I thought it was about time I used it - namely to dry the caliper bits off after washing the degreaser off.

The air compressor is now wired up under my workbench and i've got 20 meters of standard air line, plus a coiled live so I can reach anywhere with the tools.

The air line blew most of the loose paint off of the calipers in the above pictures...

 

[lmg]

You might have remembered my previous post found HERE, well I took the option of getting the units powdercoated.

11-12-12

OK, got my calipers back from the powdercoaters...

Heres a shot of the pre-powdered caliper...

Needed to tap the threads out, and clean up the brake fluid channels.... Heres a good idea - lets try one of those calipers halves in the vice. Sure, its not a rock solid grip, but what could go wrong...

BOLLOX

Got my front caliper seals in the post today, but now one of the caliper halves need to be repowedered. Double double bollox

I also needed to reseat one of the cush drive mounts. In this picture you can see it protruding (this happened in the oven)..

After explaining to the wheel the consequences of fucking me about after the caliper debacle, a few taps with a rubber mallet sorted it out....

Im now waiting for 100 ball bearings and a tank sealant to clean up the inside of the fuel tank. I need to remove the fuel level float from the tank, but its not explained in the workshop manual (!) so will have to do some R&D. I also dismantled all the bodywork ready for the painters (hopefully tomorrow when Steve speaks to the painter and see if they can fit mine in for pre-Xmas)....

19-12-12

Picked up the repowdercoated callipers today - must remember not to balls it up again. The bleed nipple is loose in this calliper so it might be the wrong bleed nipple OR it may be in need of a helicoil (might have come out when being powdered). If they dont need helicoils, then the callipers can be reassmbled as i have all of the seals ready to go in.

Tomorrow, its wheels time - new bears put in and the discs remounted, then off to Barnsley National Tyres so they can put a pair of new Continental tyres on the wheels and balance them up.

After that its the forks which need to be reassembled. New fork seals to be fitted, then the springs go in and stanchions bolted back in. The forks need to be setup - oil and air for these. Must remember to put the fork brace on as well.

Its then the turn of the fuel tank - need to get the float out and then clean the inner of the tank out with my special degreaser and a shed load of old nuts and bolts. Once thats done and its cleaned out and compressed air dried out, i need to seal the inside of the tank with the sealant i have purchased. The exterior then needs to be painted.

The fuel tank craddle then needs to be cleaned and painted (once all of the electrical connectors have been removed). I might be able to get the diff keyed and painted as well (or at least one coat).

That ought to be enough for one day

20-12-12

OK - day didnt start very well with me having a load of an emergency work to resolve before I could turn my attention to the bike. Once I did, and after Steve arrived, I wasted more time by not being able to locate the wheel bearings in my cramped garage (just too much .... well ... everything!). With the bearing located after what seemed hours, we started.

It took fooking ages!

Having to air compress left over sand out from the wheels, we had to fit the cush drive using a rubber lump hammer, then fit the bearings once we worked out which of the other sh*t (spacers, rings, seals, clips, etc.) were required - then located them in the garage - then locate the right tools to get them installed. It went on and on and on.

Rear done:

Then we turned our attention to the front. Slightly more easier than the rear, which of course we let our guard down and in rushed the "brilliant" ideas (which in english means ways to fuck things up). Out comes the air ratchet gun in order to tighten up the discs bolts. Steve does 5 out of the 6 and leaves me 1 to do. Bingo - I sheer off the bolt. We loosen the others off and then use the old manual torque wrench on the remaining, but of course one isnt having it and promptly sheers itself off as well. Bastards. Out with the phone, on to ebay, find a complete set of replacements for £15 delivered - bought and paid for before steve could finish his smoke.

Front (including the two offending bastards):

We then assembled the forks. Both fork legs had a lot of left over sandblasting material in them, so after washing them out with petrol we managed to get the seals in (what a ball ache and it took yonks) and get everything else in like retaining clips and cir clips. The problem is that the workshop manuals (and I have 3 different ones - Clymer, Haynes and Honda) arent very good at all, and it requires a lot of headscratches and working it out before we did the work. Like the fork oil seals - we arent 100% certain we have fitted them the right way, and the instructions were non existent.

Didnt get anything else done. So tomorrow its tyres time so off up to Barnsley for a brace of Continentals to go on the wheels, and then off to Sheffield with Steve to see the painter.

Thanks for your help Steve - enjoy your Metzler Xmas present

24-12-12

Well spent last Saturday (22/12) and today working on various parts of the bike. First off, the petrol tank. Wow - how much shit was in that tank? I have 5ltr bottles of this heavy duty industrial degreaser and cleaner - its a pretty much clear/very light pink liquid. I left it inside the fuel tank for a few hours and then poured it back in to the bottle. This was the resulting colour....

and it had lumpy bits in it! Several more iterations of the degreaser, Steve and I moved on to using old petrol to help dislodge the lumpy chunks at the bottom of the tank. I must admit, I thought for a moment I would have to buy a replacement tank as I thought it was unrecoverable, however once we poured out the petrol, I fired up the jet wash and we blasted the shit out of the tank (and it was raining to boot). That did the job! Now there are some signs of rust inside the tank, but the majority of the crap has now gone. I left the tank overnight (and all day Sunday) drying out with microfibre clothes inside to absorb the water....

I didnt mention it before, but I had to remove the fuel level sender unit out of the tank in order to get the gunk out of it (not to mention the drain bolt). This was the condition of the sender unit before we started....

35+ years of shit inside the tank. Anyways, moving on.... This morning, I started the day off with the plan to clean up both the fuel tank (exterior) and the dummy fuel tank craddle. NB: The goldwings fuel tank is located under the seat - and what we would consider as the fuel tank, is actually a storage compartment, and provides access to the radiator reservoir bottle and the electrics/fuses. Example:

Anyways, the craddle was also is shitty condition....

After photographing where all the bolts (different sizes) needed to go, I set about masking off the areas I didnt want the paint to get to. I also had to key up the surfaces of the craddle and the fuel tank, and of course clean them up and remove any dirt and other debris. Once done, it was time to spray up the parts. First up was the fuel tank...

Once that first base coat primer was drying off, I did the craddle...

I did a couple more cycles on the both and in between I set about cleaning up that gawd-awful sender unit. Out with the wire wheel on the bench grinder and lets have at it! Once satisified with it, I brushed on ACF50 to stop any more corrosion whilst its out of the tank.

Tomorrow, I will be put a couple more coats of black on the tank and the craddle and they ought to be done then. Will just need to reassemble the tank and put some fuel in it to check for leaks

 

[lmg]

Just a quick update on progress on the bike....

11-1-13 DIFF PAINTING

Well work this week has been hectic and I have barely had anytime in the garage, although today (Friday) I had a couple of hours this afternoon.

Not having enough time to reassemble the 2up Rocket3s Jardines (and remember, I have to lag them as well as touch-up-paint the Progressive shocks and the crash bars), I turned my attention to the Goldies diff painting.

Masking up (I hate masking up):

Needed to mask off the large areas on the diff like the wheel spline face and this, the shaft spline end:

First coat:

Second coat (its getting darker - the sky as well as the diff):

Final coat for today (now its dark):

I seriously need more space in the garage:

[move]27-1-13 PAINTING and EXHAUST WRAPPING[/move]

OK a quick update. Firstly, the diff. Thats finished. Many coats of paint and its done.

and then with the masking off....

Next, repainted the fan - I stripped it down and then rebuilt it...

Reassembled the dummy fuel tank cage and refitted the wiring. This was a particularly tricky piece. Couldnt work out how to refit it and none of the three manuals I have showed how to either!

Next wrapped the Jardines a week or so ago. Needed to dry them out (as you have to soak the wrap prior to wrapping the exhaust).....

We also wrapped the 2up Rocket3 Jardines cross over pipe and heres the video of them drying out (plus the OEM battery had died over winter even being on a Optimate)...

The 2up Rocket battery died when Steve and Davey where here last. I put it on charge and the next day this happened...


PC625 Odyessy Battery installed and attempts to fire up bike....


Drying out paint and wrapping....



This past weekend Simon was up and along with Steve we steam cleaned the Goldies engine the day after heavy snow

note = cam pot covers and timing belt covers are my unpainted spares - I got sweet looking black powdercoated ones going on when its finished...

The grease and grim needed extra help on top of the steam so out came the super duper degreaser and that broke it down easily....

Blew the engine dry with the air compressor and managed to flake off even more of the engine case paintwork.

Steaming videos....



[move]7-2-13 NEW SEAT[/move]

The original GL1000 came with a typical aftermarket King/Queen seat, then in a deal for the Jardines I got an OEM King/Queen seat for a tenner. I spotted a Corbin FastGun seat for the GL1000 on Ebay and got that (although it has blue piping) but I am not convinced of "the look" when it was on the frame, however I saw an auction for a Guilari seat for the Goldie which I think suits the bike as best as possible. However, its in a rough state...

I took the padding and outer off of the seat pan as this will need to be rebuilt by Tony Archer of Huddersfield...

... and im left with the seat pan so on with the wire wheel!!

For a 35+ year old seat, there is some rust holes which I need to know if they need welding before the pan is painted and its recovered..... Thoughts?

I think the style of the seat is what im after with the bobbed/cafe style GL1000.

[move]11-2-13 WELDED SEAT PAN[/move]

Steves work on my GL1000 seat pan

Thanks to Steve! The seat pan now needs to be painted black with hammerite and then off to Tony Archers in Huddersfield to be rebuilt with new foam and new covers. Just need to work out a pattern now

 

[lmg]

14-FEB-13

Giving the seat pan several coats of Hammerite to give it some more longevity. Thankfully the weather is not cold and not raining/snowing so thumbs up!

 

[lmg]

15-FEB-13

Trying some of the "silver/grey" engine paint (heat proof stuff) on the engine this morning. Hmmmm, not sure....

Trying to show contract in the pictures.

What do you think? It *may* look better inside the black frame with black caps (cam and timing belt covers) --- however the carbs aren't painted.

 

[lmg]

16-FEB-13

It isnt everybodys cup of tea (hey, im British - if your an American consider what I said "its not everyones cup of coffee" ) but since its my bike and im paying for it, I will have what I want

Current paintwork

 

[lmg]

21-FEB-13

Painting the GL1000 engine today with its several layers of silver top coat....

 

[lmg]

23-FEB-13

OK - did a another coat of paint on the engine on 21st....

Just need to let it dry now. Next job - go collect the paintwork from Sheffield.....

tank sides...

side panels....

Front mudguard and top of tank....

Final coat of paint and lacquer going on....

Saturday 23rd went to collect the seat from Tony Archer. Look back at the old pictures of the seat....

and now the final seat which Tony Archer worked on....

and on the frame....

now for the ££££

Tony Archer charged £45 for the seat

Paintwork cost £270 ;D

I think that's great value!

 

[lmg]

2-MAR-13

OK so I had a busy week at work. I had planned to "prep" during the week, but that didnt happen. This meant on the morning of 02-03-13 (Saturday) I was up at 6am.

First things first - fill the truck up (and a quick car wash whilst having a morning coffee) and then to Toolstation to get a couple of sets (!) of drifts. On the way back I stopped at the 2nd garage to get the 4 crates of goldwing parts to go with the 3 crates already in the garage.

Back home, it was a case of getting the garage emptied and prepped. 3 bikes out of the garage and at the bottom of the drive. Next was to get everything else out. When Steve turned up his first words were "are you having a car boot sale?"

Whilst waiting for people to turn up, I started assembling bits and pieces in readiness. The forks brace:

Most of the front end:

I also had a go at putting in the fuel tank (only for it to have to be removed afterwards):

As I said, Steve turned up, with Davey following a while afterwards. First job was to get the old bearing races out of the frame (drifts? no, too short - need a claw hammer in the end), then clean everything out. The bearings I bought from Ebay advertised for a GL1000 for my year didnt fit. Checking the bearing numbers the original code ended with a J and my news ones ended JR! We had to clean up the original bearings in petrol which were in good condition and refitted them.

With the yokes put on, the next job was to get the engine in. The GL1000 has a removable span on the left hand side bottom of the frame (which is a notorious rusting point which needs reelding). I have two GL1000 frames and 2 frame spurs. I thought I would use the tidy one - bad mistake - wouldnt line up with the engine very well, so the rewelded one wa used and lined up precisely (even though it wasnt the original one which came with the frame).

One of the big problems of the day was locating the appropriate parts and the correct nuts and bolts. When the bike was broken down, unfortunately all the bits were chucked in to a large yellow tub and not kept seperate. We spent a lot of time trying to work out which parts went where and what nuts and bolts were needed. The bike also appears to have a mix of metric and imperial threads = although its a Honda Goldwing all Goldwings were built in the USA as the bike was built solely for that market. Next it was swingarm on - another tuff task. The Hagon shocks (new) were put on for the first time.

Next was the shaft connected up - the circlips were a bloody nightmare. Had to take the swingarm off once it had been put on in order to attached the shaft BEFORE the swingarm was put on, then once the swingarm was reinstalled it was dealing with the other circlip - the bastard circlip - the utter fucker of circlips. This was the circlip that required about 10 different tools and demanded that my circlip pliars were ground down on the bench grinder! Once that was done - about an hour later - we could then put on the diff. I repainted the diff myself and SOMEHOW I managed to miss a section of the diff - although I think Steve and Davey chipped the diff and the paint come off, as it was the first bit of paint to be chipped, knocked, fucked up, scuffed, and basically bolloxed by the terminators.

With the rear wheel on (which required some head thnking as to what was being used as spacers until we remembered that the Goldie has a massive brake caliper-cum-spacer), we turned our attention to the front. Ash had arrived a while before and he and I scratched our head on how to fit the front wheel. A very awkward fitment. We also worked out that the tyre was mounted the wrong way around! Now with the front and rear wheels mounted - and with Ed arriving on his Meridian Triumph - we did some final bits n bobs including getting the bike off of the Black n Decker workbench and on to the floor and then on to the bike lift. The bike at this point wasnt particularly heavy. The bike also needed to be on the floor as we needed to hammer the forks up in to the yokes, and then the pain of getting the screw caps on the end of the forks whilst compressing the springs and then fitting the air lines (the Goldie forks are oil-spring-air combination - like i said it was built for the american market and they like their comfort).

I thought I would offer up my newly recovered seat to see how it looked, and I wasnt immediately taken by it. I reckon the rears wrong for the look of the bike. I will have to see when the bikes done.

So, after some small bits and pieces - such as putting the headlamp bowl on (plus doing some painting as I had forgotten to paint part of the headlamp unit), the day was over and the guys pushed off home. I eventually put my car boot stand away and got to see the bike on it own, or next to the other bikes.

I now had the fun of fitting the bike in to the garage with the other bikes. With the immense lean of the bike it was hard, but I did it.

Things which need to be done:

- A shaft shoe needs to be fitted to the end of the shaft between itself and the diff
- Need to fit the new clutch cable
- Rear wheel and diff need to come off in order to fit the fuel tank in, and then refit the rear wheel and diff
- Fit piston and seal in to rear caliper prior to fitting
- Need to align the swingarm correctly (need to read the manuals)
- Need to fit the fork brace to the forks and set them up
- Fit front calipers and put pistons/seals in
- Need to get the tyre refitted correctly
- Need to locate those two engine mounting plates urgently and once found or made the engine need to be torque down correclty and in the correct sequence
- Timing belt covers and cam covers need to be swapped out for the black ones
- Fit the carbs on to the bike
- Fit fuel lines from tank to fuel pump and then on to carbs
- Need to route all the current cables correctly
- Need to swap out oil filter with the new one and torque up the sump drain bolt
- Need to fit the radiator, fan and hoses..
- Plus everything else

In other words .... a lot left to do!

Thanks to Steve, Davey, Ash and even Ed for stopping by and helping out.

 

[lmg]

10-APR-13

Steves handy work!

New timing belts, new spark plugs, wires hooked up, carbs on, air filter (with new air filter) on, dummy tank on, fork brace on, handlebars on, radiator (and sides) on, rad pipes on, other pipes on, new fuel hoses on, fuel tank in, shaft splines moly greased both ends, shaft boot (which we missed before) on, clocks on (after being painted), new timing belt and cam pot lids (in black with gold badges) on, shitty horn back on (for testing purposes - got a chinky-stebel to go on somewhere), headlight on and wired up.

Still need to: swap front tyre round the right way (going to Barnsley Nat Tyres tomorrow to do that), bolts for shocks, jubilee clips for hoses, diff oil put in, normal oil put in, coolant put in, charge battery, put wheels on, complete caliper assembly, order and fit new brake lines (including fitting repainted front brake splitter), fit new pads (may need to grind them back as the thinking is powder coat is interfering with free play of pads), and sort out handlebars. Tried Steves T-Bars. Problems is GL is a 7/8s handlebar. Renthal bars are 7/8s but need to get levers and switch gear off (which includes the internal wiring) from the old bars - or use old bars and still dismantle for powdering. They are on there for testing the electrics with.

A few more pictures....

Remember these holes?

These are the original covers....

They need tarting up....

 

[lmg]

12-APR-13

 

[lmg]

Ordered a hydraulic clutch conversion and some resurfaced discs from Bradshaws Bikes in WA USA (as seen on Facebook).

 

[lmg]

I seem to have a GEREX electronic ignition system on this GL1000. Unfrotunately I dont have a clue as to where the 3 wires which arent plugged in actually plug in to. Does anyone have any ideas? Or better still, a copy of the manual?

 

[dan filipi]

I might have the manual for the Gerex, will have a look.

 

[dan filipi]

Hope this matches the one you have.
This manual should open in your browser:
Gerex manual.

 

[lmg]

Thanks Dan. Will look at it shortly,

Sent from SYDland ....