UPDATE : Safety done and sound all good. Just a couple little thing.

[quennc]

Well did the safety today everything passed but the rear brakes. Needs pads and rotor. Have the pads already but rotors are another thing. Priced it out today and prices are anywhere from 250 to 300 for the rotor. A guy even quoted me 140 for a used one. So you can imagine my surprise when i heard that after just paying 30 for pads. The rear tire will be good for the rest of the season but that's it. Center is wearing out pretty good. But guy passed my bike anyways but highly recommended i change the pads now and look at getting a rotor as soon as i can and possibly replace the tire when a good deal comes up. Other then that, mechanic thought the bike was an amazing steal for what i paid for it. As for the oil light. (A problem i had mentionned in a previous topic)It goes off right away when i start the bike now. Done nothing to the bike but light goes out instantly once started. The smoke from the pipes, like many of you mentionned was told to take the girl out for a good long ride, looks like she needs it. I found that when i sit on her, the rear suspension drops alot. What would be the proper psi for the rear air shocks for 2 people. I'm 220 lbs and my wife is 125lbs. ( don't tell her i told. lol!) . I was told when i bought it that it was already set up for 2 but find it sits almost all the way down. There's no built in pump so have to run my compressor to it and don't want to over do it and cause damage.
Also the choke cable is seized which would explain why the guy i bought it from never used it. WHat would be the best way to fix that other then replacing the cable. Also when starting from time to time, sounds like the starter is giving a winding sound after it starts. Is that normal or is it on it's way out. Starter was replaced last year with a rebuilt. Dont really want to try and jump start this thing in the middle of nowhere.
Tried to attach a video of what she sounds like but for some reason can't. So instead i attached a pic of the bike.

 

[aslatk]

Sure is a real nice looking bike :music: . I need a front rotors on mine only because they're warped. Doesn't come to a smooth stop which is real annoying. Keep an eye on Ebay. Only thing about used is you don't know if they're warped. A lot of times they give a thickness measurement so that would be good to know. Find out what minimum thickness spects are.
Question... Does anyone know if the rotors can be machined on an automotive brake rotor lathe? Both front and rear? I have access to one.
:thanks:

 

[slabghost]

Top off your oil with automatic transmission fluid. I think you are looking for about 25psi in the rear shocks. Choke cable is twist lock and might be locked. Try turning counter clockwise. Starter is probably fine. Bike rotors are stainless steel and are difficult to turn with an auto setup.

 

[54Greybeard]

What a great looking Wing. Hey Slabgohst, didn't know that turning the know would lock the choke. Thanks!

 

[quennc]

Slabghost, tried what you suggested but no go. The choke is not budging a bit. Looks like the knob just turn that's it. The base of the knob is broken for what i can see. So as of right now i cant even pull it out a hair even. Might actually be locked in place and the knob being broken won't turn the cable. Would LUCAS oil work good on these bilkes?

4 straight days of rain here. Driving me crazy. Want to go out and polish her up. Damn mother nature!!! :crying:

 

[slabghost]

Penetrating oil of any kind can work wonders. If the knob turns but the stem doesn't try small vise grips on the stem. I sympathise on your weather not been dry much here either.

 

[Piktureit]

That is one sweet looking 'wing! I wish my paint job looked half that good!

 

[quennc]

thanks. The color is Viper Blue. Have to thank my wife. She picked out the bike and being m first full blown cruiser, have to say it was a good choice.

 

[dan filipi]

Excellent choice and color!

 

[mcgovern61]

On the choke cable, it is not exactly the knob that is turned, it is the nut that is right at the handlebar where the cable goes in. If it is tightened, you will not be able to pull the choke. You can also try the other end and make sure the choke is not jammed.

 

[quennc]

The actual plastic piece that the nut threads on just behind the bracket is broken. Can't even tighten the bolt. Also just took her out for my first ride and have to say i like the sitting position on her. The handlign was not as hard as i thought it would be. Don't care for the position of the rear brake pedal. Feels higher then the foot peg. A few things i found odd. First she is very slugish when she's below 2500 rpm. I found she only rode nice between 2500 and 3000 and also when the temp is right. How high would you guys run the rpm"s before it's to high? I was doing 100k and 4000 rpm and she sounded like she was screaming. When she was just warm i had a really hard time getting her to role. Had to seriously rev her up to move and even then when the rpm went down while starting to move , had a really loud knocking sound from the motor until the rpm picked up. Not sure if that common but different for me. But once she got hot, i wasn't as hard to get her to role.
The air compressor light came on within a few minutes and stayed on the entire ride which made it not to comfortable. Felt every bump on the road. I did have the rear of the bike straped down so she wouldn't jump around in the back of my truck so i'm hoping that didn't cause any damage. Will put so air in it tomorrow, hopefully that's all it was.
I really need to get that choke to work, starting her up is a b##ch when she's cold.

 

[slabghost]

On the choke cable, it is not exactly the knob that is turned, it is the nut that is right at the handlebar where the cable goes in. If it is tightened, you will not be able to pull the choke. You can also try the other end and make sure the choke is not jammed.

beg to differ. That just holds the cable in place.

 

[quennc]

Well first thing tomorrow is checking out the cable and try to find out were the snag is. Then moving to the air ride. That's big on my list since i feel everything on the road.

 

[danf]

57 psi on the rear air shocks on my 81 is max. same on your 82..don't need that high I don't think.. I ended up buying progressive shocks for the rear 412's for my 81..No regrets..

 

[quennc]

57 psi? That's more then double then what someone else mentionned for an 82. But i'm guessing it's based on comfort for the individual.

 

[danf]

I was just saying that was the max. so it's known, I also mentioned you don't need it that high....Starts at 28psi to 57psi for 82...good luck

 

[scdmarx]

shocks for 2 people. I'm 220 lbs and my wife is 125lbs. ( don't tell her i told. lol!) . .

My wife would kill to be 125lbs again. :lust:
Heck, I'd kill for her to be 125lbs. again. :lust: :ahem: :doh: :beer:

 

[dan filipi]

I run my stocks 83 rears at max all the time, still rides good. the fronts with progressive springs and 20wt fork oil i run 0 psi.

 

[AApple]

With the Progressive springs in the rears on mine, 20-25psi is just right for one-up, without being harsh, and still keep the rear sitting pretty when on the stand. The shocks themselves can handle more pressure than the specs...the specs are for the lawyers. And...anything above the max is gonna be like rock solid, one-up. The instructs that came with the Progressive springs say you can go as high as 70psi....not that I would want to. At 40psi, one-up, it starts getting a little too firm for me.
If you need to add up to the max to keep it from bottoming, your rear springs are prolly saggy.

The rotors can be turned on a normal automotive lathe, but, according to Ron(scdmarx), the finish leaves a little to be desired.

 

[quennc]

Thanks for the info. Are there only certain shops that can turn these rotors or can any mechanic do it.