What is the easiest way to check a stator?

[Omega Man]

I'm talking for myself as I have ZERO electrical abilities none, nada, zip.

When I go bike shopping later this year I want to be prepared in case the bike doesn't have a volt meter. It needs to be a way that is not very intrusive because who knows what kind of PO's I'll encounter. I guess I'll need some sort of volt meter, one that is simple to use. :thanks:

~O~

 

[slabghost]

Any cheap volt meter across the battery terminals at 3000 rpm should read 14v or slightly above.

 

[Omega Man]

Seriously, it's that simple? This $4.00 meter is all I need?

Thanks Slab. :hi:

~O~

 

[toytender01]

:yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :ahem: yup!!!!!

 

[Ansimp]

Practise using your volt meter on a car or other bike so that you are comfortable using it. On the meter in the photo you would be using the 20 DCV scale to test a 12v charge circuit. Good luck in your quest!

 

[slabghost]

This tests the entire charging system. It can read less and still have a good stator. But you asked for quick simple and easy.

 

[dan filipi]

I would want to see at least 13 volts at idle with the normal loads on, headlight, running lights.

 

[joedrum]

why not just check the three yellow wires to ground ...if one of the leads jumps needle to ground its bad stator

 

[mcgovern61]

Any cheap volt meter across the battery terminals at 3000 rpm should read 14v or slightly above.

I would like to add to this; check the battery voltage before starting the bike (should be around 12.4 volts). Turn on the key so that the headlight and other running lights are on but do not start the bike, just leave the lights on for about 5 minutes and then check the battery voltage again (should be down to 12.2 volts or maybe even less). Start the bike and check the battery at idle and then again at 3000 RPM.

What you are looking for is to see the battery voltage drop when off and watch the voltage come up after the bike is running to verify the stator is putting out.

 

[Omega Man]

Thanks guys!

why not just check the three yellow wires to ground ...if one of the leads jumps needle to ground its bad stator

If the bike still has the factory plug just put the red probe into each wire at top of plug? Also, could I kill the stator if I do this wrong?

~O~

 

[slabghost]

Thanks guys!

why not just check the three yellow wires to ground ...if one of the leads jumps needle to ground its bad stator

If the bike still has the factory plug just put the red probe into each wire at top of plug? Also, could I kill the stator if I do this wrong?

~O~

The plug needs separated for this. Motor not running. Ignition off. Only check the stator side with ohms setting. Red to each wire and black (common) to a good ground on the motor. If you get continuity on any wire it's not good.

 

[Omega Man]

Thanks guys!

why not just check the three yellow wires to ground ...if one of the leads jumps needle to ground its bad stator

If the bike still has the factory plug just put the red probe into each wire at top of plug? Also, could I kill the stator if I do this wrong?

~O~

The plug needs separated for this. Motor not running. Ignition off. Only check the stator side with ohms setting. Red to each wire and black (common) to a good ground on the motor. If you get continuity on any wire it's not good.

Wut does "continuity" mean? Remember first post said "I know ZERO." :smilie_happy:

~O~

 

[dan filipi]

I don't see any reason to go to the extent of checking the stator windings for shorting if you've got good voltage at the battery like already mentioned. Voltage is a quick simple check for health of the charging system as a whole.

 

[joedrum]

you and me both randy ...electrical stuff sucks

 

[mcgovern61]

I don't see any reason to go to the extent of checking the stator windings for shorting if you've got good voltage at the battery like already mentioned. Voltage is a quick simple check for health of the charging system as a whole.

Agreed! This is all that you would need to do to check if it is working.

 

[Ansimp]

As Omega man said it was for when he went bike shopping so checking charge voltage is all he needs ( does it really matter if it is stator or regulator/ rectifier that is faulty) to make an informed decision on a potential new purchase.

 

[mwbill37841]

don't feel bad i'm ele. challenged too.

 

[toytender01]

[u]ZERO[/u]Means run away

 

[Anonymous]

If your going to be keeping the bike then you should check the yellow wires on the stator for sure - nice if the plug is there, have to cut the wires if it is not. Problem is you can get 14v at the battery and not know one phase of the stator is going bad.

Cut the yellow wires and with the bike running measure the voltage (AC) from wire to wire - (all combinations) you should read 75v at idle everywhere if one is high or low you can expect it to fail some time in the near future -

 

[joedrum]

yes I think that nails it ...when there first going bad its hard to tell ....I screw around on hooch long enough to see it it progressively get worst ...even though ground to case and ohm resistance test on the yellow wires were all showing good at first and as it went along the tests started to show problems ....but the problems in charging were already happening for a while ...as 1060 said I think fluculating meter reading are a clue its toast ...why I hate this digital meter and flashing reading ...makes it hard to tell what the dam thing is doing .. :rant: :cheeky: .rant over :mrgreen: