Would this relay work?

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=186248#p186248:1uy16psv said:
PurpleGL1200I » Sun Jan 22, 2017 6:33 am[/url]":1uy16psv]
Sunday morning idle thoughts:

Just ordered a package of 5 relays and sockets off the internet.

Plan A is to ground the headlight relay through the neutral switch so the headlight is off when you're in neutral.

Another thought is to have a coil relay that is powered by the starter button so you have full power (12V) at the coils when starting.
Full voltage to the coils at startup...is an interesting idea. :headscratch: :yes: in other words, bypass the ballast resistor. Can't see that the ignitors or coils would be harmed with only a few seconds of full voltage. Would be interesting to bypass the BR with a jumper and see if the engine springs to life with more enthusiasm on a cold start.

Not sure about switching lights off when in neutral because I usually shift to neutral when sitting at a red light. But maybe same relay as above could turn lights off on startup.

If you try these please let us know how it worked. :good:

Brian
 
Wired through normally closed contacts the relay would open when start solenoid is energized so lights would be off for starting.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=186249#p186249:m04hpa6a said:
canuckxxxx » Today, 5:51 am[/url]":m04hpa6a]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=186245#p186245:m04hpa6a said:
Rednaxs60 » Sat Jan 21, 2017 9:44 pm[/url]":m04hpa6a]
I have these relays on my 1200 LTD and have no issues to date. I use one relay to a new accessory fuse block that I power accessories and the coils from. I replaced the horns as well and use a relay to power them. Recommend browsing at Princess Auto if you have one nearby, browsing there gives me ideas and it has a lot of great stuff that is useful including these auto relays.

Cheers
Good to hear positive review of those relays.

We have a Princess Auto here in Calgary and I agree they have lots of interesting stuff, especially in the surplus section. I have meant to pay them a visit when I saw those relays on Amazon with free shipping so just went ahead and ordered them.

BTW, are you still riding on the island.

Brian

Still riding. Have the bike apart for some tuneup maintenance. Putting back together today. Supposed to turn warmer and sunnier.

Cheers
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=186251#p186251:3zw52k1g said:
canuckxxxx » Today, 6:14 am[/url]":3zw52k1g]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=186248#p186248:3zw52k1g said:
PurpleGL1200I » Sun Jan 22, 2017 6:33 am[/url]":3zw52k1g]
Sunday morning idle thoughts:

Just ordered a package of 5 relays and sockets off the internet.

Plan A is to ground the headlight relay through the neutral switch so the headlight is off when you're in neutral.

Another thought is to have a coil relay that is powered by the starter button so you have full power (12V) at the coils when starting.
Full voltage to the coils at startup...is an interesting idea. :headscratch: :yes: in other words, bypass the ballast resistor. Can't see that the ignitors or coils would be harmed with only a few seconds of full voltage. Would be interesting to bypass the BR with a jumper and see if the engine springs to life with more enthusiasm on a cold start.

Not sure about switching lights off when in neutral because I usually shift to neutral when sitting at a red light. But maybe same relay as above could turn lights off on startup.

If you try these please let us know how it worked. :good:

Brian

I have the coils on my 1200 wired so that when I turn the ignition on the relay that controls power to the newly installed accessory fuse block is switched on. The switching wire for this relay is the wire that used to go to the coils from the kill switch. The power to the coils is through a fused wire from the accessory fuse block directly to the coils. About as good as it gets for battery voltage.

The issue with these older bikes is the condition of the wiring and the parasitic losses from other items that may be powered off the same wire going to the coils.

I use the new accessory fuse block for all the add-ons and for some of the existing items such as the coils, and it reduces the number of relays to install.

I have also installed a new ground bus bar and use it for all new grounds, and have taken older grounds that used the frame as a ground and run these back to the ground bus. This bus is connected directly to the battery. I have found over the years that grounds are a key source of aggravation on an older vehicle, and this is my way of addressing this issue. I also lived on a boat for 5 years and grounding is an important issue as well.

Cheers
 
Some times it's hard to touch ground on a boat and when you do it often hurts! :smilie_happy:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=186234#p186234:7gmzfg4n said:
Ansimp » Sat Jan 21, 2017 1:40 pm[/url]":7gmzfg4n]
In a way I am glad that your other relays failed because it at least confirmed what I believed that they were only suitable for a fixed installation ( something that doesn't move ). The automotive relay that you have bought should be fine ( some cheap brands are good and some are crappy) but this is a changeover relay so you won't have 2 switched circuits with it. One circuit is normally closed ( 30-87a) and the other is normally open ( 30-87 closes when the relay coil is energised). Just pair your 2 circuits to the 87 terminal or you can buy some 5 pin relays that have twin 87 pins but there really isnt much difference. I prefer to use the modular relay mounting blocks that come with your relays so that you can swap relays easily or use a jumper wire if one fails. :good:

I don't think using those industrial relays on a GW should shorten their lifespan. No vibration because it's a GW and because I have it mounted loose.

The nice thing about them is they can be swapped out of their base easily. Also they are easy to troubleshoot and can be serviced. You can see the action of the contacts through the clear plastic cover. And you can take the cover off and touch up the contacts with fine sandpaper.

The problem with these particular relays is that they are 20+ years old and are of unknown service history. Also contact rating is only 10 A and they are rather bulky and look wierd on a motorcycle.
 
There are a lot of this type of relay on my '85 LTD and when found can be expensive. going to have to start looking for alternatives. Your picture and description gives me ideas. As long as something like this fits in the space of an old one, should work well. Now to source these. Are there any identifying P/N on this old part?

Cheers
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=186326#p186326:35io6pcc said:
Rednaxs60 » Tue Jan 24, 2017 8:53 am[/url]":35io6pcc]
There are a lot of this type of relay on my '85 LTD and when found can be expensive. going to have to start looking for alternatives. Your picture and description gives me ideas. As long as something like this fits in the space of an old one, should work well. Now to source these. Are there any identifying P/N on this old part?

Cheers
Take a look at the first post of this thread
 

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