y type 3 way wiring connector

[akolleth]

I am installing a Dyna S to my 77 Goldwing and find myself in need of a 3 way. I am pretty new to rebuilding a bike so have rather limited knowledge.


I have seen the y type 3 way like seen here https://www.amazon.com/JT-Products-2187H-Insulated-Connector/dp/B002UZUL0C But I am not sure what to think of that.

as this will be a power feed Its pretty obvious the center will be charged when in use, right? Or am I missing something simple? Basic electrical says power has to flow throw that center to go to the other two ears. Why is there not protection on the center section, would that not lead to possible shorts if the center comes in contact with other wire/metal? Do you use something like this then just wrap it in electrical tape to cover the center?

 

[joedrum]

never used one ..you would think its all hot or all ground ..depending how its used need more info on what your doing with it

 

[RussL]

right... feed on one tab and draw from the other two... I like to use Liquid electrical tape as it won't unrap as it get old... Good luck...

 

[akolleth]

joedrum » Tue Jul 14, 2015 11:03 am[/url]":14bij057]
never used one ..you would think its all hot or all ground ..depending how its used need more info on what your doing with it

I am installing a Dyna coil. The way it was set up before the primary power feed wire is black/white wire and ended in a double bullet connector. From the double connector two black/white wires went out (one to each coil) My double connector had been heat damaged and was suspect, so I cut it off and I am left with a single primary power feed line that I need to split into two to go to the 2 dyna coils. The line that I am left with after cutting back the damaged double connector is too short to just splice a line into the middle, so I need to make a y connection there.

If that makes sense

 

[chuck c]

It's possible to run a screw through that hole to mount it either on plastic or some other insulated thing but that seems odd. You're right, you can't have that exposed metal floating around. Sooner or later it will contact something it shouldn't. If you want to use that you must insulated it with tape or better, what they liquid electrical tape, which is a kind of rubber in a can with a brush in the lid. It will toughen and won't unwind like tape.

That's made for 12-10 AWG and is probably too large for the wire you're using. I suggest doing more shopping for something that works as is without having to add insulation. I'll take a look at some sources I know.

 

[brianinpa]

I once used only crimp type connectors but then I had a problem with one: shorting that was caused by the bad crimp connector. It took me quite a while to find it. Since then, my soldering skills have gotten a lot better because I soldering every connection. For three-way's, I make my own.

 

[chuck c]

This should work for you and they are much cheaper. Check your wire to get the right size. They come in packs of 5 or 10. They crimp and then heat shrink. These would also be great for many other wiring jobs on bikes like those pesky rear tail/ brake/ turn clusters that have some Y splits too.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#electrical-wire-splices/=y1srk6

McMaster-Carr is a fantastic resource for parts and tools. They have industrial stuff you can't get at the hardware or auto stores. The website is super easy to search. I bought a metric thread restoring file from them that has saved the day a few times and just ordered some electrical terminals this morning myself. They ship fast and are nice to deal with.

 

[chuck c]

brianinpa » Tue Jul 14, 2015 11:17 am[/url]":1bn1yek4]
I once used only crimp type connectors but then I had a problem with one: shorting that was caused by the bad crimp connector. It took me quite a while to find it. Since then, my soldering skills have gotten a lot better because I soldering every connection. For three-way's, I make my own.

I went from hating crimp connectors to an uneasy truce with them. If they are done right with the correct size wire, connector, and proper crimping tool they are just fine and fast. The problem is having all those which I never do so they always come loose. If I really need a lug on the end I cut off the plastic, crimp then solder that sucker on, then use heat shrink tubing to replace the plastic.

 

[joedrum]

i dont use them the best connector to me is a wire nut ...its the spirrel clamp wedge connector ,,no connector grips in as many ways ... only thing left is clear silicone to top off the cap as sealer ... ive never had other connectors do as good ever... so im not in to spending money on lesser products at all ....i always work towards the use of them over anything else ...as far as three way goes it dont get better than right size wire nut and seal opcorn:

 

[chuck c]

Yeah they are good but take up a lot of space and can be too big to fit in small spaced like tail light housings. Not just the nut itself but the way the wires come out of them. A straight line crimp-on or solder is sometimes the only thing that fits.

 

[Ansimp]

Rather than use the 3 way ( which is designed to be mounted through the eye) just use a butt splice and slip 2 pieces of wire in one end and the other wire in the other side.

 

[chuck c]

Ansimp » Tue Jul 14, 2015 12:21 pm[/url]"rbgd4pi]
Rather than use the 3 way ( which is designed to be mounted through the eye) just use a butt splice and slip 2 pieces of wire in one end and the other wire in the other side.

See post #7. I found butt splices made just for that. I assume they have different size on each end to accommodate 1 or 2 wires and still crimp tight.

 

[Ansimp]

chuck c » Wed Jul 15, 2015 2:24 am[/url]":35wd2aw0]

Ansimp » Tue Jul 14, 2015 12:21 pm[/url]":35wd2aw0]
Rather than use the 3 way ( which is designed to be mounted through the eye) just use a butt splice and slip 2 pieces of wire in one end and the other wire in the other side.

See post #7. I found butt splices made just for that. I assume they have different size on each end to accommodate 1 or 2 wires and still crimp tight.

I use crimps all the time with more than one wire in them without purchasing special crimps ( blue can take 2 wires and yellow can take 4 wires)

 

[mcgovern61]

I'm with Brian on the crimped connectors. I only use crimp and solder type connectors for the same reason. Bad crimp will create heat or wire slip.

Also, I never use wire nuts. Wire nuts allow a stranded wire to become pinched at the connection which connection can break through vibration.

 

[joedrum]

well we all use what we think is best for us ... wire nuts have always proven best for me ...when you seal them with silicone it like locks them in place ...as stated ive never seen better or last longer ....i will always make space for them ..as i feel there so much better than everything else

 

[dan filipi]

For any connection I want to last, it gets soldered. I've had too many crimp connections with no solder come loose or over heat.
Where no plug is used, I do a western union splice, solder then tape or shrink tube.
Wire nuts are fine for most things but as already mentioned they take a lot of room, looks pretty cheesy too but it works.

 

[slabghost]

Well it seems all the bases are covered here.

 

[mike in idaho]

A very poor way to join three wires, the rivet in the center is bound to loosen up causing a loss of current carrying capacity and heating up the joint which will loosen it more.

 

[Ansimp]

mike in idaho » Wed Jul 15, 2015 11:24 am[/url]":b1t3eea9]
A very poor way to join three wires, the rivet in the center is bound to loosen up causing a loss of current carrying capacity and heating up the joint which will loosen it more.

It's a three way eye terminal that is designed to be mounted on a stud which would tighten the connection point :yes:

 

[mike in idaho]

If you're going to slip it over a stud why not save $5.07(plus shipping) and use three ring terminals for about $.75 ?