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Sounds great Joe, now that the work is done time to rack up some miles and enjoy :Egyptian:

Pulled my rusty crusty gas tank, gonna fill it with molasses and water for a week or so and see how it works

Did you put the chokes back in the runners or are you just running it straight up ??

:music: :clapping:

The flanges are much stronger than they look, I don't think warpage will be much of an issue unless they are way overtightened :good:

With the holes drilled in the flanges you can bolt the stock intake to the bottom side and mark your cutaway line :builder:

Looking good Joe :salute:

Looking good Joe,I did my drilling on a drill press, do very small pilot hole first, then went to size, I cut my flanges out with a cutoff wheel on die grinder, finished them up on bench grinder, I thought I would have to space mine up, but when I got it bolted up it sits about a half inch above...

I pray no doctor ever cures me of my creative madness,lol, life would be way too boring, but to stay on topic, I'm glad my idea sparked some to think outside the box and look at everyday items and use them in a way their designer never could have envisioned with stellar results. Sorry I have not...

The ones I used are flat, and the weld is leak free

I used the ultra black and the fel pro gaskets, glue the gasket to the head with a very thin coat and let it dry so it doesn't slip, apply a thin coat to the runner side and bolt it down, no leaks, the thin flange is not a problem, it is designed to carry 500 lbs on the bar, there is very little...

Sorry guys, I could be wrong about it being fuel rated, what I used is Gates stick hose, available at o'reillys, it is commonly used for fuel filler pipe connections on automotive gas tanks, but if you keep the gap between runners and intake very tight it should not cause any problems.

I think the flange may be brazed on some of these, I had one of these to begin with, and it was definitely welded, but I needed 2 that matched so I bought 2 new ones, and they look to be brazed, where I cut was not copper

No clearcoat on the ones I used, after all the grinding and deburring was done, a quick once over with the wire brush on my bench grinder turned the brushed finish into a polished look, a quick rubbing with a little mothers mag polish should keep them shiny..... the no welding thing was a major...

Welcome from the peach state, this is a great place for wing lovers, all the info you need, and if not, a great bunch to help you figure it out !!!

Thanks Joe, I just decided that using the stock manifolds was more trouble than it was worth, the smooth mandrel bends and 1 less joint looked better to me, and was definitely better than anything I could fab on my own in the cave, I figured it was worth a shot, so far I couldn't be happier, I...

Like I said before, no noticeable issues, bike takes off and runs great, will have to run a couple tanks of gas out to check mpg, I will be sure to post more results when I have them, but I couldn't be happier with the way it runs and rides so far ....

Yes Canuckxxx the moen bar looks like it would work just fine, the flange does noy have to be really thick, it is rated to hold 500 lbs , by the time you cut it down to size needed it is very rigid

I am thinking that if I had any vacuum leaks there would be obvious rideability issues, so far I have ridden it about 150 miles, no issues of any kind

Didn't measure inside diameter, yes the flanges are welded completely, smaller tubes probably would make more torque, but as is I can bring mine up between 1500 and 2000 rpm, ease the clutch out and go, I weigh 340, so that is good enough for me, I saw some smaller diameter bars on ebay, looked...