Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive Holley,Weber 740 carb

[dan filipi]

No kidding.
I mean come on. Someone needs to set them straight and make them airtight.

 

[canuckxxxx]

I feel like puting all the grab bar, that are sawn in half and flanges ground down, in a box and send them back for a refund. I will just say I had trouble mounting them in the bathroom.

Brian

 

[canuckxxxx]

That stainless steel is so shiny...I'm sure I can make it work.

 

[joedrum]

sheesh the original poster tried to make clear you needed the exposed mounting braclet kind ...

 

[canuckxxxx]

ekvh » Mon Oct 21, 2013 8:20 am[/url]":1rtgx6zg]
The other question is whether the welds on the inside are air tight. I wouldn't think that they would be spec'd to be that way for a grab bar. It wouldn't take much to weld a flange on there with a little more meat. Stainless transfers heat slowly I think.

Speeking of heat transfer; I was in Home Depot the other day and looking at copper water line fittings. They had a bunch of 1 1/4" copper 90º elbows and a couple of 45's. Copper is a super conductor of heat and soldering the pipe and fittings together would be pretty easy. Just the flanges would be hard to do.

The OD of 1 1/4" copper pipe is 1.38" so would fit pretty good into VW manifold spigot.

I am going off in too many tangents already right now to consider it but looks interesting.

Brian

 

[canuckxxxx]

joedrum » Mon Oct 21, 2013 11:18 am[/url]":3sefaeq1]
sheesh the original poster tried to make clear you needed the exposed mounting braclet kind ...

That's what my grab bars are. The non-exposed are completely different and wouldn't work at all.

 

[82a]

canuckxxxx » Mon Oct 21, 2013 1:33 pm[/url]":g5m0rkde]

ekvh » Mon Oct 21, 2013 8:20 am[/url]":g5m0rkde]
The other question is whether the welds on the inside are air tight. I wouldn't think that they would be spec'd to be that way for a grab bar. It wouldn't take much to weld a flange on there with a little more meat. Stainless transfers heat slowly I think.

Speeking of heat transfer; I was in Home Depot the other day and looking at copper water line fittings. They had a bunch of 1 1/4" copper 90º elbows and a couple of 45's. Copper is a super conductor of heat and soldering the pipe and fittings together would be pretty easy. Just the flanges would be hard to do.

The OD of 1 1/4" copper pipe is 1.38" so would fit pretty good into VW manifold spigot.

I am going off in too many tangents already right now to consider it but looks interesting.

Brian

at one time, someone was selling a (pretty sure all) copper tube setup on ebay opcorn:

 

[dan filipi]

I'd wait on investing any money in copper fittings until we come to a solid conclusion what inside pipe diameter is best since I'm gathering from these threads so far, the I.D needs to be smaller than 1.2. More like 1-1.18.

 

[westgl]

I am working on Rev.4 and Rev.5, waiting for parts though,

both ID's are smaller than 1.200"ID at their smallest point

 

[canuckxxxx]

joedrum » Mon Oct 21, 2013 9:22 am[/url]":wq22l8c3]
well this is were the jungo runners really shine bright ...the intake horns are left stock ...and the mother Honda set up at sealing to the heads remains the same and is something I admire about how well this set up works ...the other end of the horns ..with the jungo runners is not compromised at all its strait in .....also the plenum end is totally right for type 4 hook up transistions ....

im holding off on hooches tweaking till I get the jungo runners ...

What seems a little dicey is where the runners enter the OEM manifolds. The runners are only 1 3/8" OD and the rubbers seal thing on the OEM manifolds has an ID of 1 5/8". How do you get a good seal there?

I pointed out the flange thing with the 1 1/4" Moen grab bars so people would be aware of issues they might be facing. But I still intend to carry on and use the grab bars and I am confident I can get a good seal at the flange.

Brian

 

[joedrum]

well .as in what your saying strait in piece is rather easy to fill with many different ways to seal at horn rubber ...as is the grab bar not much a problem to me ...but others do have problems it seems ...this is a mod ..theres going to be problems ....these threads are here to cut them down to a managed level for them to work ....and to bring to surface ideas that may or may not work ...there have been many good ideas surface here

 

[shovelking81]

The ones I used are flat, and the weld is leak free

 

[Denver]

Can't remember where, I saw someone used PVC 1'' for parts of manifold looked doable, don't know how well it works. Can't remember where I saw it, lot's of help I know.

 

[canuckxxxx]

I am waiting for some work to be done on my runners so have turned my attention to the 32/32 progressive carb I got from Tom Landry.

So far I have removed the auto choke and plugged the vacuum hole with JB weld. And I have removed the choke arm.

I don't see a fuel inlet filter, do you see one in the pictures? Does that solenoid on the front view need to be removed?

Any other comments will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Brian

 

[dan filipi]

I put a barbed hose fitting for fuel delivery where the plug is.

 

[westgl]

canuckxxxx » Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:39 am[/url]":2q22512u]
I am waiting for some work to be done on my runners so have turned my attention to the 32/32 progressive carb I got from Tom Landry.

So far I have removed the auto choke and plugged the vacuum hole with JB weld. And I have removed the choke arm.

I don't see a fuel inlet filter, do you see one in the pictures? Does that solenoid on the front view need to be removed?

Any other comments will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Brian

Hey canuckxxx,

1. The taped over port is you fuel inlet port, Tom already removes that screw in fuel filter, so that is already done.

2. The Idle cut off solenoid has also already be removed by Tom, and plugged.

3. No, Leave the other solenoid alone, it is not functional but it is sealed, so dont do anything there.

4. Bottom picture there is a plug that needs to be put into the threaded hole, it may have came with your VW plenum, otherwise you will have a Hugh vacuum leak.

5. I would leave the plug underneath plugged.

 

[dan filipi]

The reason I put a barbed fitting where the plug is is the hose connection is a nice straight shot in.
A fitting in the side, even a 90 degree fitting was getting in the way with carb going in and coming out.
Just worked out better for me, Jungo too.
I think the thread size where the tape is is the same as the plug.

 

[joedrum]

me three...

 

[canuckxxxx]

Thanks for all the helpful comments. Looks like I am close to having the carb ready.

I can see that coming in the bottom, as Dan suggested, would be more out of the way and I will try and find a barbed fitting with that thread size. The plug that is on the bottom now is not the same as the hole under the tape but that is no big deal.

Brian

 

[canuckxxxx]

Also here is a shot of my throttle cable setup. Seems to work pretty good.