1980 Standard running again

[Arnold]

Thanks for the advice. I cleaned up the front calipers and pads, then ran an orbital sander around the disks while turning the wheel. It made a nice sheen. When I got to the back caliper, I discovered the pads were way worn, with a little metal visible on one side. I replaced them with new pads and sanded down the rotor with 100 grit sandpaper on the orbital sander. When it gets warmer I will take it for a test ride.
Presently I have taken one of the rear shocks apart to replace a seal. I appreciate the advice given in the forums.
Arnold

 

[Arnold]

I replaced both rear shock seals and replaced the ATF fluid by using a squeeze bottle through the air hose orifice. About 11 ounces in each side. Then I added about 18 lbs of air pressure. Took it for a ride from Boise up to Lucky Peak which is the reservoir in the foothills. Nice fall colors. Up at the top, I noticed my rear brake rotor was warmer than the front pair of rotors. The rear has the new brake pads. It wasn't too hot to touch, just very warm. Will that go away as the pads wear in?
Also, whenever I shut off the engine, I notice that the electric radiator fan motor is running. Even on very cool days like today. My radiator is full. How do I fix that?
Arnold

 

[slabghost]

Calipers do not "return" they simply release so there will be some contact of the pads most of the time. So yes the rotor will likely always get warm. Many disconnect the fan switch and wire in a toggle switch. That way the fan is on only when you want it on.

 

[dan filipi]

Does the fan eventually turn off?
Could be a bad thermo switch making it run too long.
Many put in a switch like slabghost mentioned but there's always replacing it as a better option, IMO.
They're still available from Honda, $60 or so.

 

[Arnold]

Thanks for your advice. I really appreciate the quick answers I have been getting from this site. Since I didn't get a service manual with the bike, you guys are the next best thing (even better, I think, because of shortcuts).
While riding in the dark recently, I noticed one of my speedometer lights is out and I can barely read the needle. I assume you get to these bulbs by taking off the fairing and undoing the screws behind the idiot-light display which holds the speedo-tach assembly together. Anybody know what size the bulbs are?
Arnold

 

[danf]

I think I got mine off without removing the faring, I remember removing that little bulb and going down to OOOO'Riley's and I matched it up with one the had there...I replaced the one's on the tech too...I'm sorry I can't give you the numbers on it...But I suggest you do the same...

 

[Arnold]

This past week I removed the old fork seals leaving the tubes in the triple clamps while disassembing the bottoms, then reassembling. I pulled the tubes out of the triple clamps in order to press the seals into place with the 1.5" PVC pipe. Then, I reinstalled the tubes in the triple clamps. I rotated the tubes so that the air hose fittings were on the outside. I had removed the rubber hose that balances the air pressure, because I didn't plan on putting any more air in the front forks. Instead, I found Napa Auto parts had a little red metric plug that was 8mm in diameter with threads of 1.0 that worked just fine, with an o-ring, to stop the fluid from coming out. So, on each side of the forks, the cap orifices face outward instead of inward. That made it easy to add eight ounces of ATF, then screwed the red plugs in. I took it for a 30 mile ride and no ATF leaked from these plugs (see photo).
Arnold

 

[joedrum]

i have some of my bikes set up this way ....but i have several leaks just not the red filler plug.... :rant: :cheeky: :mrgreen:

 

[GILLT]

if the bikes running good and up to par its worth going through the brakes also

I agree with ya on this one Joe. :good:

 

[Arnold]

Thanks for the tips. I lightly greased (silicone grease) the floating surfaces behind the rear brake pads and the rotor doesn't get as hot anymore.
I decided to change out the timing belts because the bike had 90K on it before I replaced the speedo cable. I am using LittleBeaver's method of clamping the pulleys, though my Gates belts won't arrive from Amazon until December 5th. The old belts looked good, but were awful loose in there.
Does anyone have a method of evaluating the condition of the belt tensioner rollers? If I spin them with my finger, each one takes an equal amount of time to slow down to a stop--about 5.5 seconds. Is that a good sign?
Arnold

 

[mcgovern61]

Thanks for the tips. I lightly greased (silicone grease) the floating surfaces behind the rear brake pads and the rotor doesn't get as hot anymore.
I decided to change out the timing belts because the bike had 90K on it before I replaced the speedo cable. I am using LittleBeaver's method of clamping the pulleys, though my Gates belts won't arrive from Amazon until December 5th. The old belts looked good, but were awful loose in there.
Does anyone have a method of evaluating the condition of the belt tensioner rollers? If I spin them with my finger, each one takes an equal amount of time to slow down to a stop--about 5.5 seconds. Is that a good sign?
Arnold

Rolling for that long is a sign the bearings are spinning. Listen for any noise, try to twist them side to side or get any movement other than spinning as intended. These are hearty rollers, but they do wear out sometimes. The fact that the belts were loose speaks to age of the belts more than anything. Once these tensioners are set, they remain that way until the next time they are adjusted manually.

These belts are gear belts and only allow for marginal growth from age (very..very minimal). If they were not limited in growth, your timing would go foul real easy (and engine damage would happen all of the time). The problem is, you cannot always visibly tell when a belt is ready to give up the ghost....that is why there is a change interval regardless of visible inspection (meaning they appear to still look good...not a good way to determine if they are good).

 

[cyborg]

Thanks for the tips. I lightly greased (silicone grease) the floating surfaces behind the rear brake pads and the rotor doesn't get as hot anymore.
I decided to change out the timing belts because the bike had 90K on it before I replaced the speedo cable. I am using LittleBeaver's method of clamping the pulleys, though my Gates belts won't arrive from Amazon until December 5th. The old belts looked good, but were awful loose in there.
Does anyone have a method of evaluating the condition of the belt tensioner rollers? If I spin them with my finger, each one takes an equal amount of time to slow down to a stop--about 5.5 seconds. Is that a good sign?
Arnold

if they are not noisy when you spin them, prbably o.k. be sure and clean the surface that the belt rides on of any rust or dirt, etc

 

[Arnold]

From what you tell me, it sounds like I got to the belts just in time. My new Gates belts departed Salt Lake City this morning at 4am so maybe I will have them here in Boise by tomorrow (unless UPS doesn't deliver on Saturday). Amazon.com had the Gates belts for just $14 each. They also carrry oil filters and repair manuals.
Arnold