1982 Interstate

[dan filipi]

Yeah, C5 is not for everyone and not always needed, but if you want a good hot spark that's dead on every time, with ability to program custom curves that can be switched to on the fly, it can't be beat.

 

[Denver]

Yep & good used ignition parts are still around at good prices on occasion, have them in spare parts bin, for both 1200, & 1500's. :whistling: But the adjustable spark, & dependability is a nice option IF you have the extra cash. :good: Would really love to have at least four, as well as an extra or two, for any future wing's picked up. :yes: That would be at least $2200, to $3300, :shock: not likely on my income. :nea:

 

[slabghost]

wedoo2 » Fri Feb 26, 2016 5:27 pm[/url]":34pwihcy]
Even though it is a bit late for me since I have my motor back in, I looked at the C5 ignition. I see that the GoldWing units are $549. I've read here several times suggestions about throwing one of these on a project. That is quite a throw on. I'm not cheap, heck I bought two motors not knowing what was wrong with the one I had. But that is a lot of money for a hot spark. My two motors didn't cost that.

Now, be kind to me.

I'm not at all extravagant quite the reverse actually. So far I've purchased two. To me it's a bargain at the price. Many have spent much more for professional paint or polish or chrome. If stock is fine for you stick with it. I like eliminating ALL of the stock ignition components and the full control and options the C5 brings.

 

[wedoo2]

Dependability I understand, but not sure of why you would adjust the spark if you had it right. Maybe right" depends on the type of riding you do I guess. I might see that on a racing machine but these are hardly that. Would it help with horsepower, or gas mileage?

 

[Denver]

Just the fact that only solution for ignition problems till now, were old, used, parts, available but not always readily. :head bang: That's why you have acquired extra parts, at a good price, when you find them, :roll: with these or any kind of old machines. :hihihi: New ignition systems, that can be tweaked, for mileage, performance, easiest on the motor's, etc. :shock: To be able to adjust to the current situation, on the fly, is a VERY DESIRABLE OPTION :mrgreen: in my opinion :good:

 

[slabghost]

wedoo2 » Sat Feb 27, 2016 10:42 am[/url]":3so1ut8b]
Dependability I understand, but not sure of why you would adjust the spark if you had it right. Maybe right" depends on the type of riding you do I guess. I might see that on a racing machine but these are hardly that. Would it help with horsepower, or gas mileage?

C5 gives a full three spark at every fire. So the fuel is more fully burned so it does add power and mpg. Just because motors have run well and dependable for all these years doesn't mean that current curves for timing is "right". I like being able to experiment with it and maybe find a curve that is optimal. Also a modified motor benefits from timing adjustments. If you were to pull a trailer or vacation ride in hilly area you would do better with a more retarded curve. Once the load is removed the lower curve would not give you the crisp response. So it's nice to have options.

 

[wedoo2]

I found out that my head is definitely not flat. If I can find the right person I am going to have the head milled and we can see where we are after that. At this point I am considering doing a complete overhaul of the head, new valves, springs etc. Would set me back a month or so, getting parts, paying for parts. I had hoped to have a runner by now. We still have some weather to go through so I may just do it.

 

[slabghost]

Some wet/dry sandpaper on a plate of glass and you can flatten it out nice. Or you can use a large mill file and use the draw method to flatten it. Use a magic marker on the head surface and you will be able to see your progress.

 

[wedoo2]

I've seen that in a couple of threads and may try it. I really don't have much to lose. I have another head that appears to be flat so I may just go in that direction. One, maybe two of the valves may have to be replaced. I did some pricing on valve replacement parts and I would be looking at over $400, plus what it would cost to mill the head. Too rich for my blood.

 

[slabghost]

Seals are cheap. Someone posted car valve seals that are identical. Probably best to change them and install the head.Springs are seldom an issue.

 

[slabghost]

Here's the quote.

same valve seals are used on some Acura cars, Honda Civics, and Qualudes. 1.3, 1.5, 1.8 engines, mid '80s('81-'83 or so). Local parts houses list them, so Imma gunna get them from there...for waaaaay less than ebay, or any of the cycle parts places($1.98 each at O'reilly's, or a full set of 8 for $15.12).

 

[OldWrench]

I found out that my head is definitely not flat. If I can find the right person I am going to have the head milled ......

Most automotive machine shops will do that for you. They use a surface grinder resurface the head. Having the valves refaced, springs checked and new seals at the same time is a really good idea, sure it is a little more cost, but most likely well worth it.

 

[wedoo2]

The shop has my heads now. They are going to confirm that I have a warped head on one engine, and I think the other is flat. I am going to order some seals and check the springs while they are out. Seems silly not too. Give whichever head is best a good bath. I'll take some pics then. Thanks for the help guys.If anyone does know the automotive equivalent of the seals I would appreciate it.

 

[bronko37]

I used these on my 1000, they are great. High quality stuff and you know they will fit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-GL1100-GL ... HV&vxp=mtr

 

[slabghost]

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1923

 

[AApple]

Fel Pro valve seals can be bought at most regular automotive parts houses. Part # SS 72546. Complete set, intake and exhaust(they are different), for around $16.
These numbers are listed in the "Basic Part Numbers" section here(all the way at the bottom of the page), under the "Quick Specs" button at the tops of the pages. :BigGrin:
The list there has been updated from the one shown in the above link. :yes:

 

[wedoo2]

Thanks again. Looks as though I might want to change the oil seals on each end of the cam while I have it off. You all agree with part # 91209-371-003 OIL SEAL?

 

[bronko37]

Yup. Thats what I got. You need 2 of em.

https://parts.southernhonda.com/a/Honda_ ... 63A03.html

 

[wedoo2]

Yesterday was a red letter day in the wedo garage. I've had this Interstate now for a year and a half. Although a very pretty bike it has given me fits. Two failed motors and more headaches than you can imagine. But perseverance is a mighty force and for the first time since I bought the present motor on a hot day in September, she runs. To me it was kinda of like having a child, or discovering that Viagra actually works.

The past couple of weeks have been hectic as I put on a cleaned up head on the left side that solved a coolant leak. The last head was warped and I seemed to have a couple of others here in the garage. I put on timing belts for the first time myself and once you understand the process it turned out to be quite easy. I adjusted the valves on the left side and of course that had to have an issue just to keep the headaches coming. While turning the intake adjuster on number 3 the bolt just snapped. After appealing to the Lord I went to one of the other heads I have and took off the rocker. Of course the timing belt had to come off and reinstalled after I replaced the rocker arm.

I finally buttoned up the head and bolted up the carbs and of course I could not find one of the intake O rings and figured that would bring things to a stop for who knows how long while I waited on new ones to get shipped. But I have two new kittys and they had moved one of the rings to a safe place for me. I was most appreciative when I discovered them rolling the O ring on the floor testing its roundness.

Carbs ready, check. Motor back together, check. New battery that I've now had for over a year, check. Slapped on the exhaust, check. Sprayed in a bit of starting fluid and damned if the thing didn't start. Now, things are not perfect. It sounds terrible with the sound of a Jimmy Buffet steel drum band coming from the motor at low RPM, but that disappears above 1500-2000. I also have a bit of backfire so I imagine that I am running a bit lean. I can fix that maybe after I sync the carbs. That may also cure the knocking down low. Will get that done shortly.

Still some buttoning up to do, not the least is one of the forks seals leak terribly. But if all holds up I'm going to be riding this thing this weekend. Sorry for the length here but I am fired up.

 

[joedrum]

good deal ...nice when they are running ...a good run may smooth it out ...good luck