1982 Interstate

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I no longer use the 1"couplings or flex pvc. Use regular sch 40 pvc for runners. Look at the Jig I built, It will make alignment easy. At the end of runners use 1 1/4 by 1 pvc socket bushing to go inside the rubber manifold boot, fits perfectly.

The drop to manifold boots will come by slightly rotating the pvc 45 degree ells.

P.S. That is a scrap blown motor I use for parts and pattern to see if stuff works,,,,Nasty Yes---Usefull Very !!!!!
 

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Thank you. After looking at the pictures again I noticed that the end couplings are actually a reducer and go from 1" to 1 1/4" That jig is great and very clever to use the stock carbs as a template. I ordered the carb today and I will start with your 2 1/2 out on both of the screws, and set the idle at 1100 or so. That seems to be the only adjustments that can be made. See how that goes.

I did see that the acceleration you had was real sluggish over 85 on your bike, and I don't normally roll down the road any faster than that, but you never know. It is not enough of a concern to me to try a 2 barrel. I'm all twiterpated over this and ready to get it done.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=170077#p170077:1dj62amn said:
dan filipi » Sun Mar 20, 2016 1:36 am[/url]":1dj62amn]
Every time I see the dkl manifold I think damn, that is so easy and cheap to make!

+1
I think this setup deserves a sticky so that anyone that wants to do an SCC has a play book to go by that we know works well :yes:
 
A basic starting point, known to work is a nice place to start. :good: Being able to ride,an otherwise unrideable bike, because of the expense of stock carb parts, repairs, & the like, :roll: this is a great option! :yes:
 
I will go ahead and start taking pictures as I get parts, and write a description as I go so if anyone wants to copy, and maybe avoid my mistakes, the procedure they can. I will not start getting everything until later in the week. Only thing left to find is 1.25" to 1" coupling. and then figure out how to connect the pull throttle cable to the new carb.
 
Agreed. I would get the cable attached simplest way you can at first then when it's rideable you can judge if the throttle twist length is okay. I made mine a longer pull because throttle twist right off idle was too quick/harsh, especially in lower gears. The stock bell crank puts it like I want it and it's what I used.
 
Right now the cable has something to hold it while the inside moves. Did you guys have to have some kind of mount to hold the cable? Or a picture of how you hooked it up? I imagine that I am overthinking it and it will be easy when I get ready to do it.
 
Even though I won't start getting the rest of the things I need until later this week, I decided to get things started. First thing is to get the stock carb off the bike. Take take off the old air box.

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After I'm done this may, along with the old carbs, finance this little project.

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You'll notice that I have a K&N filter. I know that some here don't care for them but they came with the bike and someone will be in the market for it.

Then it's time to get the carburetor off the bike. Take off the bolts holding the manifolds to the heads, then loosen the choke cable, take off the vacuum and fuel lines into the carb.

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Now that the carbs are off the bike I can see the why I am getting a coolant leak onto my pipes on the left side. Coming from the water crossover pipe and some leaky seals. Will get some of those.

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I ordered several things from the FlexPVC web site but could not find the bushings that go into the manifolds. I got those (it reduces from 1.25" to 1") and a length of 1" PVC locally and now was the time to see if it all fits as DKL said it would. It did.

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You may notice that I always mark each manifold so I always know where they come from. The bushing fits nice and snug into the rubber end. I imagine that they will be fine and not leak once the clamp is tightened. We'll see.

Now, on to making the wooden template to put the pieces together. Will post as I go along.
 
I could not help but notice in your pictures that there are quite a few cut wires. Did you make those cuts or was it like that when you got it?
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=170392#p170392:3c9o4ko0 said:
mcgovern61 » Thu Mar 24, 2016 4:21 am[/url]":3c9o4ko0]
I could not help but notice in your pictures that there are quite a few cut wires. Did you make those cuts or was it like that when you got it?

I think that is just an optical illusion Gerry if you are talking about the wires with the brown plugs.
 
I just clipped the damn things off. Got in my way you know.

Nah, they are fine. That round thing (condenser I think) wants to keep falling off though. When I find my stapler or some nails it will stay.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=170401#p170401:2genm116 said:
wedoo2 » Wed Mar 23, 2016 4:34 pm[/url]":2genm116]
I just clipped the damn things off. Got in my way you know.

Nah, they are fine. That round thing (condenser I think) wants to keep falling off though. When I find my stapler or some nails it will stay.
:heat: :smilie_happy:
 
My mail lady brought me some stuff today and it looks like most everything I need. Will take some pictures tomorrow and move forward. I even got a USB/cig lighter that was supposed to be coming from Hong Kong but got here in three days. I love logistics.
 
Oh Oh, I didn't order that gasket shown here.

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Maybe someone local has one. I don't know how to keep that bottom sealed, if the gasket will do the trick. The carb has a gasket, but.... ??? Oh well, time for bed.
 
Be sure and grind out the stop on the flange throat so the hole matches the opening of the gasket.
 
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