1983 GL1100A Charging System

[FlyingKOW]

I have a 1983 Honda Goldwing GL1100A Aspencade.

I am having a problem with the charging system that has me baffled. In cooler weather, the system charges just fine at 13.8 volts. As the outside air temperature heats up, the charging system will not keep up. The hotter the outside air temp, the lesser the charge output.

Any ideas?

Thank you, in advance!

 

[backlander]

That's normal for the goldwing stator charging system. The higher the ambient temperature, the lower the charge rate. Just make sure all your cables and connectors and grounds are clean and battery fluids are up to snuff. If you haven't already you should consider making the stator wire mod on the three yellow stator wires. The mod could save you a lot of grief and money.

 

[FlyingKOW]

I have already soldered the stator wires into the main harness, it didn't help.

When I say the charging system starts failing as the outside air temp goes up, I mean that at about 80 degrees Fahrenheit, the charging system is only putting out about 10 - 11 VDC. At 90 degrees Fahrenheit, it won't charge at all.

Up until a month ago, it would maintain 13.8 VDC at even 90 - 95 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

[backlander]

Ok, first make sure your battery is good, then you probally should do the actual stator testing procedure as to contiunuity, voltage output and phase to ground.

 

[FlyingKOW]

Battery tests as being good. The stator test passed when I soldered the wires to the main harness, but I'll check the stator again.

Thank you!

 

[backlander]

Have you had any problems with it not starting due to discharged battery, do you have extra lighting on while running like driving lights and are you relying on a factory volt meter telling you that output while riding?

 

[FlyingKOW]

If I ride it too long when it is not charging, I have to jump start it.

The only extra lighting I have are on the bumper, and I have not been using them since the problem began.

The bike still incorporates the factory volt meter, though it has been compared with a VOM and is pretty close.

 

[backlander]

Sounds like you've ruled out all the little things that might be the culprit, so the stator test is mandatory now. I'm sure you know you have to cut your yellow soldered wires into to get the correct readings from the stator. Hope it test out good, but it sounds like it is laying down on you after it warms up. I got my fingers crossed for you.

 

[dan filipi]

I'm wondering if the regulator is going south.
It does get very hot.

 

[FlyingKOW]

Is there an easy way to check the regulator with a standard VOM meter? If so, I'll check it, too!

Thank you!

 

[backlander]

It's a pretty lengthy test to several different color wires which require different ohms readings. Do you have a Haynes manuel on you bike, if so, the test procedure is in there. If you don't have a manuel, there's one in the tech section at the top of the page you can reference.

 

[AApple]

I'm leaning to the regulator/rectifier. You can test the stator at the R/R connectors without having to cut the three yellow wires again. Just unplug the R/R, and check for A/C voltage on all three yellow wires, as well as checking for continuity, and shorts to ground.
The stator could be shorting when it gets hot, too....the insulation could be breaking down.

Check out the thread on my stator failure..it has all of the stator tests posted there, and the results. It may help.

Dagnabbit!!! (stator failure)

 

[danf]

Mine was doing that just before I decided to do the alt. conversion, now I'm glad I did, I think my stator was going south because it read a low output before the soldered connection and after it, so when I tested it the reading was the same, sad..to low...Stator issue...

 

[mcgovern61]

Silly as it may sound, on my '81 engine, I lost my RR and had the same issue. Turned out the connector was just ever so slightly loose. Pulled it, cleaned the ends and plugged back in (with pliers) to get it all the way in....worked fine for 2 more years!