gee weez ...this sounds like the carb got some rather bad treatment done to it ...well i am glad you were able to get the jets and tube out sheesh .....especially on a brand new carb ...no matter you can recover from this i am sure ....
75 v 82 cams
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Well gentlemen, I have to say that I have learned a great deal about my carburation (right or wrong) in the last week, so I am still no expert, but here's what I discovered,
1, the 220 air correction jet (that I had to drill out completely) is totally unavailable,
2, Tom Langdon is not just a buddy of Brian's that sold him a carburetor. This guys website https://www.langdonsstovebolt.com sells 32 DFT Weber's, brand new for $95, all day long.
3, They, are a major exponent of heating the manifold, and outdoor ambient temp°, Texas/California, and cutting away the plenum bulkhead (like I have,) has nothing to do with it, it is all about internal gas condensation inside the manifold and the freezing thereof. They did send me a cut sheet explaining why, but unfortunately I drunk deleted it. Sorry.
4, I am still waiting on confirmation of this from the above mentioned company, but it appears that primary jets are meant to be bigger than secondary jets, because once the butterfly's are all open, they are all working together and the extra initial gas is supposed to overcome starting torque. I am trying to equate this to an electric motor with a variable speed drive, (only for my benefit) once it's rolling it's easier to make it go faster.
That's what I've learned this week, you know I'll pass on all that I find out, 'cos that's what I do.
1, the 220 air correction jet (that I had to drill out completely) is totally unavailable,
2, Tom Langdon is not just a buddy of Brian's that sold him a carburetor. This guys website https://www.langdonsstovebolt.com sells 32 DFT Weber's, brand new for $95, all day long.
3, They, are a major exponent of heating the manifold, and outdoor ambient temp°, Texas/California, and cutting away the plenum bulkhead (like I have,) has nothing to do with it, it is all about internal gas condensation inside the manifold and the freezing thereof. They did send me a cut sheet explaining why, but unfortunately I drunk deleted it. Sorry.
4, I am still waiting on confirmation of this from the above mentioned company, but it appears that primary jets are meant to be bigger than secondary jets, because once the butterfly's are all open, they are all working together and the extra initial gas is supposed to overcome starting torque. I am trying to equate this to an electric motor with a variable speed drive, (only for my benefit) once it's rolling it's easier to make it go faster.
That's what I've learned this week, you know I'll pass on all that I find out, 'cos that's what I do.
paul the info they give and opinions are basically for car motors that come no where near the rpm of a oldwing motor 1/2 way at best .......and it is also information for a carb that has all the extra devices on it ...like the power valve being the biggest effect on gas charge ...i havnt a clue what on your carb ...but if has a power on it and not disable like mine is ..even though carbs are the same there not and completely different ...there is no way my bike would run with the stock jetting for a economy carb that pulls no rpm close to a oldwing motor ....on my bike the jetting is completely the opposite ...jetting is much smaller in the primary barrel as is the air flow...as the secondary is completely closed to air .....then when the secondary comes in as dose double the air flow ...the gas jetting is way bigger ...so it can match the increased air flow along with the high rpm that makes this seemingly small to run at low rpm create airflow twice as much as the carb was ever design to deal with.... in jetting the secondary ....in my opinion ...
Not sure what to suggest about your damaged 220 air jet. Maybe contact those Weber parts vendors that Joe and I suggested and ask them. Also, I have found this carb at the local pick-a-part, if you could find one it might have the 220 jet or some smaller jet that you could drill out to 220. Don't know what shape your drilled out jet is but could you solder up the hole and them drill it to 220? :headscratch:[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=137370#p137370:3aye7p25 said:
Anyway, once you get the 220 air jet solved you should swap the 60 idle jet into primary side and 50 into secondary. That might just be all that you need to do to eliminate bog.
Brian
I found the carb at pick-a-part on a mid-80s Ford escort.
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=137370#p137370:2tqte52b said:
My experience: if the plenum is heated to the point that it is too hot to touch for more than a second or two and if that heat extends up into the base of the carb, the bike will run flawlessly from idle to redline using the standard jets that come with the Tom Langdon carb...the same jets that you and I have. IMO the only way to get that much heat is to close in the bottom of the plenum and run engine coolant through it. :heat:
Joe, and others have shown that it can be made to run very well without heat. :good: Your manifold is way different than mine so it might work well for you cold.
Just saying what worked for me.
Brian
Posts #183 and #190 of "Canuckxxx single carb build" pretty well sum up what I did and the outcome.
OP
OP
Guys, like I said, I ain't no expert, I am not and will not get opinionated about this stuff, I just want to learn enough to get my bike running good, my name is NOT captain 12 o'clock.
When I said I drilled out my jet, I meant I drilled out all but the threads and then picked those out with a dental pick, it was totally destroyed. I did search both of those websites and many many more and the nearest I could find was a 200 for a DFTA, which I bought hoping it would fit and that I could just give it an extra .2mm.
Joe, by power valve, do you mean the brass cylinder at the 6 o'clock position on the carb that has the thick spring loaded needle in it?
When I said I drilled out my jet, I meant I drilled out all but the threads and then picked those out with a dental pick, it was totally destroyed. I did search both of those websites and many many more and the nearest I could find was a 200 for a DFTA, which I bought hoping it would fit and that I could just give it an extra .2mm.
Joe, by power valve, do you mean the brass cylinder at the 6 o'clock position on the carb that has the thick spring loaded needle in it?
If you can get the 200 give it a try without drilling. It is the primary side that you need to concentrate on now anyway. You just need that air jet so you can put the jet holder back in for now.
yes on the non throttle cable hook up side ... this device is non adjustable and is design for the economy cer motor and jetting the carb comes with ... in my opinion this is not what best for the oldwing high reving motor ....power valvle dumping gas in the primary barrel can be the cause of the bogging on the oldwing motor ...it was in the carb i was working with it seemed early on ..to be fair there were other issues at the time to ...and i did not know the carb good back then
OP
OP
On the adapter gasket part of this thread I thought you guys might be interested in this one I bought for mine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/WEBER-DMTL-DMTR ... 3f427456a4
I figure, with 7mm of rubber inside of 2 gaskets it would be compliant enough to overcome any alignment problems that may cause leaks and it would increase the size of my plenum slightly, (which right now is only the volume of the adapter,) even if only by a cubic inch, that can't be a bad thing.
And since buying it, I found out they are also available in the US for about $18 shipped.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/WEBER-DMTL-DMTR ... 3f427456a4
I figure, with 7mm of rubber inside of 2 gaskets it would be compliant enough to overcome any alignment problems that may cause leaks and it would increase the size of my plenum slightly, (which right now is only the volume of the adapter,) even if only by a cubic inch, that can't be a bad thing.
And since buying it, I found out they are also available in the US for about $18 shipped.
its what i have on hooch ...its great for me its been on and off many times and reseals good with smart hands not over tightening it :good: glad to see where to get one ...thanks :mrgreen:
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Nice gasket, I'll get me one.
Does anyone have these specs as well as lift for a 1200?[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=132858#p132858:umtd2g4c said:
Thanks
Brian
BTW...Merry Christmas!! :fiddle:
i should know them well ...1200 cam has a more low lift and longer duration and is cut in a more smooth way ..id say this was to reduce load on cam for the hydro lash adjusters ...if like a 1000 early cam was used and piston cutout made to work i bet the 1200 head have trouble dealing with cams profiles of the earlier wings
Thanks Joe,
Seems like 1100 cams are only a bit milder than 1000 cams.
Just thinking if I could find a 1200 engine and put my 1100 heads and cams on it, it might be almost as hot as a 1200 with 1100 heads/cams.
What do you think?
Brian
Seems like 1100 cams are only a bit milder than 1000 cams.
Just thinking if I could find a 1200 engine and put my 1100 heads and cams on it, it might be almost as hot as a 1200 with 1100 heads/cams.
What do you think?
Brian
slabghost
Well-known member
1100 cams have more lift than the 1200 and if I'm not mistaken the 1100 valves are a bit bigger so the valve reliefs on the pistons will need enlarged to make this work. Should be a very nice combo once completed.
1000/1100 intakes are 2mm larger, 38-36, exhausts are the same, 32mm. I don't recall seeing lift values, but 1200 valves open and close at 10-40 intake and 10-40 exhaust. That ten degrees helps, but 75-83's can be tweaked that direction. 2mm isn't much, but combined with the lift it begins to gain a lot at upper rpm. I'm toying with using 1100 cams on my current 1200 project.
on the subject of 1100 cams ..they the closest to 1000 37- early cams ..but there is a sweet spot they fall under and the 1000 cams pretty much nails it ....it would be a good build with power over the 1200 set up for sure ....only the 1000 early 371 cams bring in the power up top the oldwing motor is calable of ...thats my opinion ...1100 cam would my next choice of cams available for sure
