80 and 83 coils

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wilcoy02

wilcoy02

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I have a 1980 gl1100 engine installed in a 1983 frame. I am trying to change the coils. I have been riding with the 83 coils which also has a white resistor bar attached to the 83 coils-- the plug and play connection has the resistor wires wired into the plug.

The 80 coils do not have the resister.

Since the engine is an 80 should I install the 80 coils onto the bike wiothout the resisters?
If I should install the resisters how would I wire them in?

This subject is beyond my capabalities and I need some guidance.
Thank you for any inpt.
 
I have just the opposite! I installed an '83 engine in an '82 frame with '81 coils (which are the same as the '80 coils with no ballast resistor). I have no problems with mine! (Just backwards from yours :hihihi: )
 
from the best info i know the 83 ignition resistant is 1.5 ohm system this is way lower than other yrs ...basicly yrs are higher ...82 different than 80-81 ...as dan said all things that fit on frame sould be from same yr ...when not theres a 50-50 chance on damage to okay ....the 80-81 yr is the hardest to work with as the resistor is built in and coils would seem to have to be right ohm or greater than stock coils info hard to come by what that is ...as most info is final result stuff ....ones with ballist that are replacable can be adjusted or have coils of final resistance already

no one mod is going to be the 1100 mod for all ...thats for sure
 
because I am having an electrical problem and trying to get rid of any thing that could cause my ole betsie from dying all the time.
frying batteries and jsut plain dying at any given unknown time.
 
Frying batteries is almost always too much voltage. Might want to get that fixed first. Dying could be a lot of things and yes coils can do that but there are two. Usually only one will go bad.
 
That is why I am trying to go through the whole bike to get rid of these gremlins.
Too much voltage yes I agree--- that is why I changed the coils to match the engine. 80 to 80 instead of what I did have 83 coils to 80 engine.
 
But the "to much voltage" to the battery has nothing to do with the coils.They do not provide juice to the battery.
Your battery problem has nothing to do with the ignition.

When the bike quites,what do you do to get it started again?
Do you need to just let it sit and cool down? Or charge the battery? Or ??
 
From what I understood, he loses everything....Lights and all....Then it started right up ...something I am doing for a while is I have hooked up a multimeter to some wires and I mounted it on the side cover on the fairing and to the battery so I can watch the exact voltage while I'm riding around.. Your problem is a bad connection to alt....Ground or main line..ha ha I act like I know what I'm talking about ahhhh I do have a volt meter too but the multimeter is more accurate.. Sure will tell you if your charging too high, [reg. in alt.] or too low and battery is dieing..It will tell you alot..
 
Everything dies lights engine radio everything.

It starts after about 5 minutes of sitting. First time it died I was at a stop light and coasted into a parking lot. let it sit 5 min and staqrted up . Went to the next light and it died. I dumped the bike walking it up a drive. Picked bike up and started it let it sit while talking and died in 3 min. Waited for 5 min and started it up and drove about 50 miles and it just died coasted to the side of the road. Let it sit for 5 min and started up and drove another 60 miles and got into traffic jam and it died. 5 min it started and I drove the rest of the 30 miles to home.

I have taken the starter selinoid the thing next to the battery and cleaned all connections any where around the battery. The ground wire included. I changed the coils from a 83 coil to 80 engine to the current 80 coils to 80 engine.

I am hoping I stumbled into the gremlin and going to try a 150 mile ride tomorrow.

Thank you for all the suggestions as I know very little about wiring.
 
Adding to Tory's questions...

When it quits, does it just die like someone shut off the key, or sputter and run rough and then die?? Also, after it dies, have you tried pulling off a spark plug wire and seeing if you have spark or not??? if you still have spark then it dies, then you might be looking in the wrong place altogether for your "she dies" problem....

When she dies, does ANYTHING else on the bike work (horn, lights, radio...) unfortunately it sounds like you have two problems simultaneously happening that have you confused and is causing you more grief than necessary.

If you were to have a bad main fuse link, it would be causing the "dies for no reason" because of the intermittent nature of a bad main fuse link, I'd check there first if the ENTIRE bike is dead after she dies, or if the lights or horn are weak and the battery shows full voltage (with an EXTERNAL voltmeter checking across the battery terminals)...

Try replacing the main fuse link first and then see what happens...

The Main Fuse link looks like a "Dogbone" in a plastic housing near the battery... I don't have a picture of one otherwise I'd include it in this post... I am sure someone else can supply a picture of it for ya...


Rich
 
Could be a bad key switch??? you could try "jumping it out with a few alligator clips and wires from the battery to the fuse block.... we would need a little more time to develop a diagram for you to use to try the jumping out of the key switch...
 
Easiest way to jump it out is to hook a jumper to the positive battery terminal and then I am pretty sure if you clip it to the headlight fuse, you will be able to start bike without key... it should "backfeed the wiring and bypass the keyswitch... just remember to turn on the switch too, so steering wont lock..

Rich
 
image.php
for the key switch hookup and wiring


Decision tree for ignition problems;
image.php



Maybe thes might help??


Rich
 
image.php
for the key switch hookup and wiring


Decision tree for ignition problems;
image.php



Maybe these might help??

If I read the diagram right, you can power the entire ignition circuit (the oone that makes the engine run, from the accessory fuse on the main fuseblock as well... the TL1 & TL2 switch part of the ignition switch seems to be for the lighting circuits... I will check my factoring wiring schematics as soon as I can to confirm this....



Rich
 

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