80 and 83 coils

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a friend of mine had that problem on a intruder and after he sold it all it was was a wire lose at the kill switch. it would just stopwhen he tried to ride it but as long as he set still it would run. don't know on the battery thing.
 
Looked at the wiring diagrams this afternoon, and if you connect up the "common side" of the fuse block under the shelter (can be determined by pulling two fuses and then using an ohm meter to see which of the two fuse holders are connected together electrically....)

I am pretty sure it is the tops of all the fuses are common for the engine, headlight, horn and instruments.... the accessory and parking lights are on a different circuit from the key switch... the TL1, TL2 switch...

When you hook up the common side of the fuse block to the positive terminal of the battery, all the instrumentation lights, gauges, and headlight should all come on as if you turned the key on to start the bike... if you have a bad switch or wiring to the ignition switch, this will bypass all of it (except for the TL1, TL2 switch for the parking lights and accessories)

Good luck and let us know how you make out.....


Rich
 
Started out for a 150 mile ride today. Got about 65 miles and the sky turneds black. So I turned around and headed for home. Everything seemed to be doing fine. I did stop and bought new fuses for everything and changed them.
Well I stayed ahead of the storm for about 50 milesw and the wind caught up with me. Had to get behind a semi to keep the bike upright.
Got caught in a heavy downpour--Then the bike started to sputter. Stopped in a garage and waited it out. Bike was hard to start and when it did it only ran on 2 maybe 3 cylinders. I know the weep holes were clean as I just went through them. I only had 5 miles to get home. When I pulled into my garage I noticed the headlight was not on. Hand brake did not bring the brake light on but the foot pedal the stop light diod come on. Maybe the new fuse blew.

At times I smelled a whiff of rubber burning-never could find anything and it could have been a semi or anything else running ahead of me just not sure where that came from.

I had no problem with the bike stopping and dying. BUT I did not get in a full 120 miles like the other day when it did die.
This is not a very confident feeling for starting a 1500 mile trip to Sturgis in 10 days.
I am sure it will get fixed on that trip.
 
do yourself a favour and replace the key switch - it's likely the culprit but if it isn't its a small expence
 
Ignition switch replaced. viola!! seems to have been the culpret.

Now the wiff of rubber burning---It was my bike. Turns out that the front fender bolts are gone. Hit a bump and the fender slid down on the tire. wiff of rubber. The air pushed the fender back up in place. I do (I think) look the bike over for loose bolts and nuts.

Now tomorrow I will try a 200 round trip for any more gremlins.

Thanks to all for the help.
 
The new ignition switch came with no key. Tried all my keys laying around. The last key actually fit.
Changed the coils and ignition switch. Have been riding all this week with no problems. So confidence is slowly coming back. Actually I am having fun riding with no problems and relly enjoying the converted pulley and alternator on this 1100.

Again thanks to all.
 
yes made it to strugis with no bike electrical problems.
Tried to do the trip to Indiana but had to turn around-thought it was carb problem.
Looked at the coils and one was cracked.
I took the 80 coils off the 80 engine and put the 83 coils back on which I removed earlier this spring.( ran these 83 coils for the past 4-5 years with this bike)
Now the next day the main fuse is back to blowing as soon as I turn the ignition switch on.

Can coils blow the main fuse?

I am almost ready to trash this bike and buy a Harley--Then I know I will be doing a lot of work on a bike.
 
I don't know if they can or not wilcoy, but I would pull all the fuses under the shell up top and then add them back to see which circuit pops the main fuse, at least it will point you in the right direction. If it pops the main fuse before you start adding the upper fuses back, then it's something thats direct wired off the main.
 
I don't know about the battery problem but I had a bad ignition switch on my 82'Aspencade,it would do different things,I would turn it off and it wouldn't start,I would check the starter,the battery,wiggle wires then try starting it and it would start,sometimes the headlight wouldn't come on and sometimes the instrument lights in the fairing wouldn't come on,figured out it was the ignition switch when I started flicking the key back and forth(on and off),then the key fell out while I was riding.
 
I just replaced the ignition switch first of August. My key was also falling out while riding.
The bike is at the mechanics now to hopefully find this electrical gremlin.
 

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