'84 1200 engine for a '82 GW

[slabghost]

Pin is also centered so it will fit 180 out.

 

[ekvh]

80-83 says to align tooth of rotor with cutout( assume they mean cutout on the back to align the pin.). If it's already together and wrong switching coil wires should work.

 

[dan filipi]

It goes only one way to align with the pin referencing the parts I have on the shelf.

 

[dan filipi]

dan filipi » 30 minutes ago[/url]":26uyjftc]
It goes only one way to align with the pin referencing the parts I have on the shelf.

Just verified this. The locating pin doesn't go all the way thru the shaft so it can go on only one way if it's assembled completely.

 

[slabghost]

Learned something new. Thanks Dan.

 

[joedrum]

it the rotor that can go on two ways and be 180 degrees out ...im sure ive done it before ...if iremember right the 1100 is part mechanical advance and vac assited advance also ..the rotor has to engage both parts of the ignition base and spring set up ...but it points just one way ...so if put in wrong it will go in and be 180 degrees out ....

 

[dan filipi]

joedrum » Today, 5:27 pm[/url]":1efvha2v]
it the rotor that can go on two ways and be 180 degrees out ...im sure ive done it before ...if iremember right the 1100 is part mechanical advance and vac assited advance also ..the rotor has to engage both parts of the ignition base and spring set up ...but it points just one way ...so if put in wrong it will go in and be 180 degrees out ....

Yes that's right. But if the rotor wasn't disengaged from the weights then there would be no chance of going back on 180 wrong.

 

[canuckxxxx]

Well I should have it together for a test firing tomorrow so we will see :beg: :beg: :head bang:.

 

[canuckxxxx]

It lives.. :Egyptian: .started right up this morning. Better lucky than good I guess.

So far no leaks, which was the whole reason for taking the engine out. My fingers are crossed. Maybe it just takes time for some oil to build up in the back cover area and then it will leak. If it does I will just put those BSA decals on live with it LOL

Full winter here and the forecast is for it to continue for the next two weeks at least :doh: :crying: so my as well busy myself with something else. Really getting sick of winter.

 

[Ansimp]

:good:

 

[canuckxxxx]

Weather forecast for coming week is really good so should be able to get some rides in.

I must say that, in the couple of short rides I've taken, I'm not liking the way it shifts through the gears. Not sure if it is trans or clutch that is the problem. Shifting and finding neutral seem better at beginning of rides but get worse as everything warms up.

I was reading another thread about the scavenger pump not draining the oil that builds up around the clutch and causing drag. This would cause the hard neutral find but it should still shift OK when riding right? When I shift when riding I have to pull up on the shifter very positively but even then sometimes it slips out under acceleration. Much different than my 1100 engine where I can snick through the gears like a proper motorcycle.

Pretty sure the ratchet mechanism behind the front cover is working right because it tries to shift each time but can't seem get the gears to mesh. Seems like the pins that are supposed to slide along the channels in the shift drum are not sliding smoothly.

Note: I'm running Rotella T5 semi-synthetic 15-40 oil.

Any thoughts on hard shifting.

Thanks in advance.
Brian

 

[slabghost]

Could be the clutch isn't fully releasing as in the other thread or the scavenger pump isn't getting enough flow. If clutch doesn't fully release it will be difficult to shift in all modes. Some shift without the clutch at all while moving but that is hard on the gears and shift mechanisms if not done just right.

 

[dan filipi]

I'll add that before I found the scavenger pump was plugged on mine, I noticed that the oil level was where I filled it to but after riding it just a few blocks then stopped back at home, the oil level was down low in the site glass. That was my clue something wasn't right. Where did the oil go.
I pulled the small clutch cover and almost a quart drained out.
After draining that quart out and refilling crankcase it shifted beautifully into gear with no clunk and into neutral VERY easy but once I rode a few blocks it started shifting very hard and impossible to get into neutral while running. Clutch would feel partially engaged as the bike would move with lever pulled in.
I was able to repeat this every time riding a few blocks.

After pulling the engine and big rear cover, cleaning the scavenger pump, no more mystery oil level drop. Shifting is as smooth as it can get and neutral is never a problem finding.

 

[canuckxxxx]

I will do the oil level check next ride but it sure sounds like what you describe, Dan. I'm getting good at pulling that engine.

You'd wonder why they couldn't just have a hole between the back cover and the crankcase for oil to drain back.

Thanks for the help

 

[joedrum]

yep i never understood this crap either ...why why why

 

[dan filipi]

Yeah I know, no path back to the crankcase besides being pumped back. Silly design could have been done better and simpler.

 

[ekvh]

I think the reason for the scavenger is to squirt oil on the primary chain. If the pump is plugged or failed, ??? No oil to the primary chain except gear splash, crank splash? If it had just a return port, would the chain get enough oil? OldFogey had a pretty good post about checking the port to feed the pump and a possible glitch from its own gasket plugging the entry port. It would be nice to have a measurement to be able to loosen the rear case, capture and measure the amount of oil that comes out to determine problems with the pump.

 

[canuckxxxx]

ekvh » Sat Mar 25, 2017 5:43 pm[/url]":a1dorn6z]
I think the reason for the scavenger is to squirt oil on the primary chain. If the pump is plugged or failed, ??? No oil to the primary chain except gear splash, crank splash? If it had just a return port, would the chain get enough oil? OldFogey had a pretty good post about checking the port to feed the pump and a possible glitch from its own gasket plugging the entry port. It would be nice to have a measurement to be able to loosen the rear case, capture and measure the amount of oil that comes out to determine problems with the pump.

Couldn't find the OldFogey thread but came across a good one by Dan.
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=106 :music2:

 

[canuckxxxx]

So, I didn't even take it for a ride to check for low oil level due to build-up in back cover. Just went ahead and pulled the engine :builder: . When I pulled the rear cover off I collected a bit more than 1/2 litre of engine oil. And that is with the bike sitting for a week :shock:

image

• canuckxxxx
• Mar 28, 2017

I imagine the hardest part of this job is getting this nut off. :head bang:

image

• canuckxxxx
• Mar 28, 2017

image

• canuckxxxx
• Mar 28, 2017

I was thinking I would make a tool out of a socket. Any suggestions?

 

[slabghost]

I have removed nuts like that with the handles of old wire cutting pliers in the notches and turn with a bar between hold the handles in place. If not too tight it will work.