85LTD short battery life

[roondog]

I currently have an 85 LTD and the voltage was running low when running, hard to re-start. Ended up to be the voltage suppressor. I have another 85LTD on its way for me to look at for purchase. The guy said he replaced the battery with a gel when he bought in last October and rode it here and there for about 400 miles or so, off and on. He has had it at a dealership on consignment and when he went to pick ip up to bring down for me to check out, it would not start. Totally dead battery. Would not even take a charge.
He said no switches were left on. My question is what should I check and where to see if there is a short? Fuse box? Also, I have one of those little red multimeters that I was thinking to check the charging sysytem. What setting should I put it on and what to check when running at what RPM.
The seller is bringing a new gel battery with him so we will install that. The bike has extra lighting, 112,000 mileage, and looks in overall pretty good shape. I will have to inspect it closer when it gets here but for 2 grand, even if it needs minor stuff, it will be a good deal. I just hope I don't have any major issues with this one.
Thanks for any advice

 

[backyardtrouble]

After you put the battery on and start it, put your meter on DC on 20 volts, put the postive lead to the postive post on the battery, and the negative to the negative post, let it idle and see what you have, should read above 14 if it's really a good charging system, if not reading above 14, run the rpm's up to about 3000 and see what you have. If you never get above 12 or 13 volts..you got problems somewhere., if it's showing 14 or above at 3000 rpms, you should have a good system becasue the lights may drag it down at idle some.
also the ground and battery connections can cause a weak DC voltage below 14. Make sure all ends are clean where they connect, postive and negative ends.

 

[dan filipi]

The battery not taking a charge probably means a defective battery and not caused by any problem on the bike.

 

[Joep]

If it is a gel cell battery I wonder if it was charged with a 6 amp or larger charger... the higher amps will kill a new agm/gel cell battery.... and extra lights can take a toll on the charging system... if it has fog lights.. if they see halogen.. then they are pulling 110 watts together...pretty big load.. though many still run then...

 

[roondog]

brand new gel battery, added elctrolite, installed, bike started right up no hesitation. The starter did spin a couple of times. Bike running...across the battery reading 13.1 at approxiamtely 2500 to 2700 rpms. Bike off reading 12.1 The voltage reading on the dash stayed around 12.1 or so at any range of rpm, lights on or off. Has fog/running lights, not sure what they are pulling. As mentioned, even with all the extra lights off, the readings were the same.
The battery connections are clean. What else can I check? How would I verify the output of the stator? Would the voltage suppressor or voltage rectifier/regulator cause this symtom? Other than taking everything off and checking grounds, I am at a loss.
The bike is in pretty decent shape, a little chafing here and there, trunk has some cracks;noticeable but not too bad. For some reason, the p.o. did not put a cord to plug into the system but rather put a toggle switch where the cord should have been coming out. The CB yik yak and radio can be heard from the speakers and the push to talk switch mutes the radio. The push to talk switch for the passenger is there but the bottom of the left armrest bag has the wires cut off to the quick where the 2 plug ins are. Weird stuff. i don't what the p.o was thinking. It smokes but smells like it is running rich, doesn't idle down, stays around 1600.
I reckon it needs some TLC.

 

[Joep]

The voltage pattern says that stator it's most probably performing to specs.. voltage went up with increase in rpm.. sounds like the volt meter connections may have issues or the volt meter itself.. it is reading max stationary voltage... but not registering any volt increase.. and since it is digital there may be an issue with the logic board..

 

[roondog]

interesting. Will have to check it out. Maybe find the input to the voltage meter and check it with multimeter before the volt meter reads it. I do hope it is a simple thing. I know the bike has other issues that I hope can be worked out but a good voltage reading and verification of the charging system that is correct is, to me, the heart of it all.

 

[slabghost]

roondog » Mon Feb 10, 2014 10:43 pm[/url]":t3oufjek]
brand new gel battery, added elctrolite, installed, bike started right up no hesitation. The starter did spin a couple of times. Bike running...across the battery reading 13.1 at approxiamtely 2500 to 2700 rpms. Bike off reading 12.1 The voltage reading on the dash stayed around 12.1 or so at any range of rpm, lights on or off. Has fog/running lights, not sure what they are pulling. As mentioned, even with all the extra lights off, the readings were the same.
The battery connections are clean. What else can I check? How would I verify the output of the stator? Would the voltage suppressor or voltage rectifier/regulator cause this symtom? Other than taking everything off and checking grounds, I am at a loss.
The bike is in pretty decent shape, a little chafing here and there, trunk has some cracks;noticeable but not too bad. For some reason, the p.o. did not put a cord to plug into the system but rather put a toggle switch where the cord should have been coming out. The CB yik yak and radio can be heard from the speakers and the push to talk switch mutes the radio. The push to talk switch for the passenger is there but the bottom of the left armrest bag has the wires cut off to the quick where the 2 plug ins are. Weird stuff. i don't what the p.o was thinking. It smokes but smells like it is running rich, doesn't idle down, stays around 1600.
I reckon it needs some TLC.

First off gel battery doesn't get filled by the purchaser. It's sealed. Second you don't mention charging it which most batteries require a specific initial charge. I'd charge the battery as described in the instructions that came with it. Are you taking all your readings with a multimeter or relying on the stock meter? Over 3000 rpm voltage at battery should be 14+. Did you remove the battery ground cable at the frame and clean the connection? Did you clean the connections at the voltage regulator rectifier and make sure they are tight? If all that is good then you need to check stator.

 

[backyardtrouble]

something else to consider.....check your plug that is coming out of your stator, if it still has one. It may have been hard wired already. If not, check each leg (ohm), use the manual for this process to make sure it has all 3 good windings, it's pretty easy to do this with your meter. You may also have a bad or weak winding. I've had bikes to run on 2 good windings, but would never get above 13 volts.

 

[dan filipi]

A fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts minimum.
If after charging it the reading is lower than that, suspect a faulty meter or battery.
Don't trust the bike's volt meter. They are almost always wrong.
Mine reads almost 1 volt low so I simply add a volt to what it says.

 

[roondog]

not too familiar with gels. Thats what the guy said that brought it. I just went out and attached a trickle charger to the battery. It is from NAPA GS 50-N18L-A3. I seee 3 yellow wires joined to 3 red wires by heat shrink and zip tied on both ends. I took pictures. I will try to upload.

 

[roondog]

I will try to follow the guide for attachments here. Hope it works. I have resized the pics to a lower kb.

 

[roondog]

are these ok? All the lights work and didn't make a difference in the voltage, which I think should have had some difference. The fog light/running lights added to the front may be drawing more than its share. Maybe I should trace those wires to disconnect them to see if it makes a difference? When the bike was taken to the dealer to be on consignment, the po said it was starting right up but then it sat there for a couple weeks and the battery went dead. I am using a simple digital multimeter (red) 7 function for checking voltage and I have a SEM 156 2A 1.5 amp auto speeed charger maintainer hooked up directly to the battery now. It shows it is charging.

 

[roondog]

Yes, that is a my harley drarfed beside it. gotta go to the darkside every now and then.

 

[joedrum]

seems the stuff ive ran into is worst than what I see going on here ...I don't see it as great that's for sure and the bike is diffinitly tapped out in power id say 1200 ...1200s dresser were like that stock it seemed and anything extra was overloading ...seems to be how its played out on 1200s in reality even though the stator were suppose to put out more ...

 

[mcgovern61]

If the battery goes dead while sitting, it is from parasitic load or bad connections. Parasitic loads can come from the radio, gauges or other items not being completely disconnected when the key is off.

 

[roondog]

hopefully that will be the case. The yellow wires accessable in the battery area......are they at DC voltage? i understand the stator puts out AC, goes to the rectifier/regulator, then to t he battery. i was thinking to poke into each of the 3 yellow's while the bike is running to check volts.

 

[joedrum]

yes

 

[skiri251]

slabghost » Tue Feb 11, 2014 5:32 am[/url]":1uj0q6oc]

roondog » Mon Feb 10, 2014 10:43 pm[/url]":1uj0q6oc]
brand new gel battery, added elctrolite, installed, bike started right up no hesitation. The starter did spin a couple of times. Bike running...across the battery reading 13.1 at approxiamtely 2500 to 2700 rpms. Bike off reading 12.1 The voltage reading on the dash stayed around 12.1 or so at any range of rpm, lights on or off. Has fog/running lights, not sure what they are pulling. As mentioned, even with all the extra lights off, the readings were the same.
The battery connections are clean. What else can I check? How would I verify the output of the stator? Would the voltage suppressor or voltage rectifier/regulator cause this symtom? Other than taking everything off and checking grounds, I am at a loss.
The bike is in pretty decent shape, a little chafing here and there, trunk has some cracks;noticeable but not too bad. For some reason, the p.o. did not put a cord to plug into the system but rather put a toggle switch where the cord should have been coming out. The CB yik yak and radio can be heard from the speakers and the push to talk switch mutes the radio. The push to talk switch for the passenger is there but the bottom of the left armrest bag has the wires cut off to the quick where the 2 plug ins are. Weird stuff. i don't what the p.o was thinking. It smokes but smells like it is running rich, doesn't idle down, stays around 1600.
I reckon it needs some TLC.

First off gel battery doesn't get filled by the purchaser. It's sealed. Second you don't mention charging it which most batteries require a specific initial charge. I'd charge the battery as described in the instructions that came with it. Are you taking all your readings with a multimeter or relying on the stock meter? Over 3000 rpm voltage at battery should be 14+. Did you remove the battery ground cable at the frame and clean the connection? Did you clean the connections at the voltage regulator rectifier and make sure they are tight? If all that is good then you need to check stator.

> First off gel battery doesn't get filled by the purchaser.

I don't know the difference between gel and AGM (absorbed glass mat) but my Yuasa AGM battery came with electrolyte packed in a container. I then needed to pour it into the battery and put the caps for semi-permanent sealing. This is maintenance free battery.

 

[dan filipi]

This is the first I've heard having to fill an agm.
My understanding is they are 'prefilled' and the electrolyte is absorbed into the glass matt, in a sense making it a 'dry' cell battery.

Is your battery clear to see fluid level and does it use a vent hose?