Alternative alternator location, maybe.

[toytender01]

I don't know , but if you tie the mechanisum for turning to the flywheel bolt, is the rotation going to be such that it keeps the flywheel bolt tight, or eill the load on the bolt be such that it loosens the bolt???? :read: :ahem: opcorn: opcorn: opcorn:

 

[dan filipi]

good question toy, I was just thinking the same thing.
I thought the hose idea to be very clever thinking, would aid in vibration dampening.

 

[mortiki]

If we can attach the collar to the flywheel then that would take pressure off the bolt since flywheel is splined to shaft not bolt.

 

[mortiki]

Looked at spare motor and rotation of the flywheel is counterclockwise from the rear. Starting the bike will possibly cause bind to loosen bolt but once running the load of the alt will try to tighten it.

BTW, it looks like the flywheel turns one to one with the crank.

 

[jdegase]

the bolt on my bike has a 2 step head. I think it would be a good place to connect to.
also
when I bought the bike the PO had put this bolt in without locktite and it had backed out and bound up the engine.
he thought the engine was junk...
attaching to this bolt will work fine as long as you pull the bolt and apply plenty of locktite. and torque to 62 ft.lbs.


actually I would reccomend this to all who havent had the bolt out.

 

[mortiki]

Not trying to hijack my own thread but here is something that may help prevent similar problems or worse. That 62 ft/lbs is what is recommended but that is a dry recommendation. When you add ANY type of agent to the threads you alter that value. A good rule of thumb is to add 5 lbs per hundred. So to get that 62 ft/lbs you would be safer at 65 ft/lbs. It has something to do with hydrolics.

 

[scdmarx]

A good rule of thumb is to add 5 lbs per hundred. So to get that 62 ft/lbs you would be safer at 65 ft/lbs. It has something to do with hydraulics.

Interesting. Could you elaborate a little on this? opcorn:

 

[slabghost]

Any fluid added will lubricate some.

 

[fysty-1]

Another problem I have with front mount is balance of crank. Timing belt counter each other on the crank but adding another load to one side may unbalance it.

Not so because the front alternator uses a pulley on the crank, there is no left or right side imbalance.
Even the kit that has an alternator bolted to a custom belt cover uses a separate crank pulley.

I haven't even finished reading all the post on this topic but from what I have read so far, I would like to qwell your concerns. Although I have not got mine installed yet as I have noplace @ this time to do the work, but from all that has been said on the other forums & as Dan stated, the PB setup has been run on multi-hundreds of 1100 & 1200 bikes for hundreds of thousand of miles with no problems or let downs and if there is a Alt. failure, all you have to do is remove 4 fairing screws if you are full fairing as I am & the remove the alt. and get it to an alt repair shop or pick up another @ an auto wrecker. But even better if you do as I have planned as my stator is still good & I still have my 3 yellows intact, all I would have to do is take the side cover off, plug the stator back in, unhook the wire to the alt & switch all my excess lights off & I am back on the road to home. I also plan to copy Sundance and use a multi-blade electric pusher fan in the front of the rad & remove the stock fan. Anyway this topic proposed here is interesting tho". Good luck :Egyptian: :music: :music:

 

[scdmarx]

Any fluid added will lubricate some.

Yes, it does. But I think something is getting lost in the translation here.

When torquing a bolt, the torque is being applied against friction @ the threads. A good example is when a "clicker" type torque wrench is used on a clean, dry bolt. Many times I've seen the wrench click 2 or 3 times before reaching the desired torque value due to the friction involved. (slip-stop-slip-stop) When a lubricant is added, the concern becomes an issue of overtorquing. So I wanted to hear more theory from the school of adding 5% to increase the desired torque value. Or did I misunderstand what I was reading?

Here's a quick google search result that may help explain it better than me:
https://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html

 

[slabghost]

I think you are right and it should probably reduce torque rather than increase.

 

[cyborg]

I feel strange messing with radiator and timing belts and in the end the alt is hanging out the side up front. I am overly cautious and do not want road debris and water splashing up on it. Also I would like it to look like I do not have one. I also love a challenge.

the "poorboy" system does use a large ugly alt. and it it does hang out a bit. i have never seen an installation that looked good. but "they" are not the only way to do it. i have had an external alt. on a 1200, and have one on a 1000 that is completly hidden under the front left fairing.. one wire system. can be driven at any speed you like off of the crank. no drive shafts, couplers, welded plates. easy to do. and far cheaper then anything i've seen talked about here. if you really want an alt. driven off of the rear, install an 1800 engine. sounds like a win win to me.

 

[cyborg]

OE stator is non-vented and attached to the motor directly. A new one here would have vents and be seperated from direct motor contact so heat should be improved.

Another problem I have with front mount is balance of crank. Timing belt counter each other on the crank but adding another load to one side may unbalance it. Removing old stator and installing this will keep same balance overall. The removal of the stator would save weight but also a little load off motor. This would be a parasitic load from a non-functional stator.

the stator does not turn. it is fixed to the rear cover. as long as you left the rotor installed the engine would not know the difference from a balance stand point. and i have run an alt. off the front crank for years. many thousands of miles, without a problem

 

[cyborg]

I am not an electrical buff by no means, I have a question about these exterior mounted alternators though, Does rain affect them..?

the ones i use are designed to run in wet weather. so no, if you use the right one

 

[cyborg]

Not so because the front alternator uses a pulley on the crank, there is no left or right side imbalance.
Even the kit that has an alternator bolted to a custom belt cover uses a separate crank pulley.

The timing belts pull the crank in opposite directions. Adding another pulley pulls in only one direction. I know its not a lot but I want mine to last another 30 years. Even the one made into the cover puts an extra load to one side.[/quote]
i don't believe the load is a factor, any more the the constant changing load created by the timing belts as the load on them changes

 

[cyborg]

I agree, forget about the poorboy, it's been done to death. Hanging it off the back is more fun.

I've run mine for many miles without the plug because I forget to put it on and found only a very very small amount of oil specks on the cover and frame, seems like not much of a seal is needed.
At least that was the case on mine, maybe more comes out on others I don't know.
I think if the alignment and drive are worked out the seal is a minor issue.

your right it does sound like more fun. go for it. do a write up on it...with pictures....and be sure to let us know what it costs opcorn: opcorn: opcorn:

 

[cyborg]

I checked out the alt I have in the battery box and it may work with few mods to bike. Gonna build a box to replace tail light and mount tail light to back of it and attach box to luggage rack. Gonna move battery and solenoid to this box and battery box will be DCed. Looks like the shaft from stator will go under the cross member and alt will fit where solenoid is now. The bracket on the alt will snug in behind the tank against inner rear fender. I can mount a support bearing on the cross member and use small pulleys to run alt. I can mount pivot bracket on top frame and adjustment bracket to bottom where battery box mount is. Due to the size of the Alt I will probably have to put an extension on the rear side panel mount to bring it out about an inch at the rear. Besides that and with motor cover in place no one will know it's there.

go for it. can't wait to see it :clapping: :clapping:

 

[scdmarx]

i have had an external alt. on a 1200, and have one on a 1000 that is completly hidden under the front left fairing.. one wire system. can be driven at any speed you like off of the crank. no drive shafts, couplers, welded plates. easy to do. and far cheaper then anything i've seen talked about here.

A picture would be cool. I would like a cheap easy way to do this. :Egyptian: opcorn:

 

[fysty-1]

I think you are right and it should probably reduce torque rather than increase.

I beg to differ as the Little denso is quite small & the ones that Bill & I (& a few others) use is only 4" in diameter. with this alt, there is no ears to cut off & no grinding. Also because it is driven off the Drive shaft there is almost no drag on the engine at all. And there is NO wear on the crank bearing. Just spend a few hours reading the posts @ https://www.gl1200goldwings.com/viewforum.php?f=52 & all will be answered. There is also no need to remove the stator. Just leave it to go roun & roun. Here is the link to the alt that Bill & I have. https://www.rareelectrical.com/RACING/AL ... 60945.html

 

[fysty-1]

I checked out the alt I have in the battery box and it may work with few mods to bike. Gonna build a box to replace tail light and mount tail light to back of it and attach box to luggage rack. Gonna move battery and solenoid to this box and battery box will be DCed. Looks like the shaft from stator will go under the cross member and alt will fit where solenoid is now. The bracket on the alt will snug in behind the tank against inner rear fender. I can mount a support bearing on the cross member and use small pulleys to run alt. I can mount pivot bracket on top frame and adjustment bracket to bottom where battery box mount is. Due to the size of the Alt I will probably have to put an extension on the rear side panel mount to bring it out about an inch at the rear. Besides that and with motor cover in place no one will know it's there.

go for it. can't wait to see it :clapping: :clapping:

You want pictures? Just start reading here. https://www.gl1200goldwings.com/viewforum.php?f=52