back brakes gl1100 piston

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I usually put the two old pads in the caliper and use them to pry the piston back in, With the old pads you can apply even pressure to the piston just use a screwdriver and sort of center the tip of it about center of the piston and use steady pressure to push it back.
 
I use one old pad and an 8" C clamp to push the piston in fully and with new pads it still just barely slides over the rotor.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=88936#p88936:i2tbygxs said:
slabghost » Sat Jul 13, 2013 3:04 pm[/url]":i2tbygxs]I use one old pad and an 8" C clamp to push the piston in fully and with new pads it still just barely slides over the rotor.


I tried the c clamp and wont. Budge. How do I tel if they r seized
 
If it won't seat into the caliper fully you may need to remove the piston and clean off corrosion on the piston and inside the caliper. remove the brake pads and insert a rag folded several times in place of the pads and apply the brakes several times until the piston pops out. At least that's my plan. Others prefer using a grease gun which will be a bit more controlled.
 
I usually use a c- clamp or a set of welding vise grips and apply pressure while loosening the bleeder valve and then tightening the bleeder valve back down before the piston stops inward travel so air will not enter the caliper. After installation is complete I go back and bleed the caliper in case a little air made it's way in.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=88945#p88945:3mvnasul said:
Steve83 » Sat Jul 13, 2013 4:25 pm[/url]":3mvnasul]If the piston is that tight, you need to rebuild the caliper.



It wont move. Parson Cycle says goldwing '83s were know for seizing piston calipers. How the hell do I rebuild the caliper? Took every bit of muster to get up confidence to try replace brakes..... :shock: :sensored:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=88944#p88944:1iqhicdb said:
backlander » Sat Jul 13, 2013 4:17 pm[/url]":1iqhicdb]I usually use a c- clamp or a set of welding vise grips and apply pressure while loosening the bleeder valve and then tightening the bleeder valve back down before the piston stops inward travel so air will not enter the caliper. After installation is complete I go back and bleed the caliper in case a little air made it's way in.



Bleeder valve is stripped. I didn't strip it. It was already stripped. What can I do for that?
 
the hex head is stripped or the threads stripped where it screws into the caliper ? If the hex head is stripped use some vise grips to take it out, If the threads are stripped in caliper, you will have to remove the caliper tear it down, and tap it to a larger bleeder size or get another caliper. You will have to make sure you get all the metal shavings out or they could eat up the caliper piston seals.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=88955#p88955:3ofr80nc said:
backlander » Sat Jul 13, 2013 5:11 pm[/url]":3ofr80nc]the hex head is stripped or the threads stripped where it screws into the caliper ? If the hex head is stripped use some vise grips to take it out, If the threads are stripped in caliper, you will have to remove the caliper tear it down, and tap it to a larger bleeder size or get another caliper. You will have to make sure you get all the metal shavings out or they could eat up the caliper piston seals.



Threads.... this job is getting more fun by the minute!!!! NOT! :sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :evil:
 
If your brake like is still hooked up you can give a couple pumps and it might un-stick it , sometimes they get a little off center pushing them back in and you need to go forward to set them free.
It sounds like a hinky caliper so maybe re build is best.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=88965#p88965:nfvfzjws said:
backlander » Sat Jul 13, 2013 6:35 pm[/url]":nfvfzjws]Here's the link rebuilding the rear caliper in the manual on 1100's that's in the gallery. gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1158&image_id=11693


Thanks... but WAY ogre my head... now how the hell am I going to get this bike to a shop!!!
Well this :crying: :roll: might be up for sale next week .. or thrown in junk yard!!@@#!!#!!
:rant: :rant: :rant: :head bang:
:evil: :sensored: :sensored:
 
Why don't you just take the caliper loose and carry it to a shop for them to rebuild, easier than moving the bike. Disconnect the brake line from it, let the brake fluid drain out of the line, put a ziploc bag over the end of the line with a zip tye so it won't get contaminated while the caliper is being rebuilt.
 
/Users/scott/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2013/Jul 13, 2013/MOV049.mp4

i don't know if i did this right.. or how to upload a video... but please watch and let me knwo what i can do... if the only option is rebuild caliper... its going into the nearest river/lake here in MN.... :sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :evil: :evil: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant:
 

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