back brakes gl1100 piston

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If you have good pressure then there should not be any air in the system. Brake fluid does deteriorate and most manufactures recommend changing it every two years. You will need to repair or replace the calliper that you cannot bleed atm when you change the brake fluid. :yes:
 
Whoa back up a bit!

Didn't you say earlier you had to pump the brake 3-4 times to get brakes?
This concerns me and could be seals giving up in the master cylinder.

I had seals start leaking on mine which came on as suddenly NO brakes when they were working fine before.

After rebuilding and flushing the lines, it was still acting up like this but after using vacuum bleeders the pedal has stayed firm.
Evidently there was still air in the lines earlier.
 
After installing new brake pads it is necessary to pump out the pads. Without fully rebuilding the brake system there is always potential for failure.
But as has been proven in the past sometimes only doing minor things can be effective and still give good service.
 
Yes I understand having to pump out the pistons after replacing pads to seat them but I understood he had to pump them repeatedly 3-4 times before getting brakes.
That is not normal.

Just trying to prevent a real bad situation here going to grab brakes and there aren't any.
 
SRC, can you take a close up picture of your bleeder valve on your rear caliper and post it please? From your earlier post about the condition of the bleeder valve, I personally don't see how you have any rear brakes at all, the caliper and lines should be full of air because your disconnected the brake line to the caliper. I sure would hate for you to need good brakes and end up getting hurt. You said the threads were stripped on the valve so I don't understand how the bleeder is staying put and how your keeping fluid in the caliper.
 
Hey Backlander, I think SRC still might be confused about the meaning of threads being stripped. In post #40 he said "my bleeder valve (threads) is completely stripped (rounded all the way around)". Obviously if the threads were really stripped (pretty rare) and assuming there is no blockage in the brake line to the caliper, he would have no brake pedal at all and there would be brake fluid all over everywhere. Sounds to me like a small vise grip and a new bleeder fitting is in order but of course not seeing it I could be wrong..
 
sorry... just got home. here is a pic. best i can get.

when i mean stripped... i mean to get it to loosen up and if i wanted to remove it, to take it off. did i say that wrong?

thx
 

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yes... yes they are... it stops... SWEEET....

I tried vice grips... my buddy who knows about cars.. and works on our vehicles.. tired with some really good vice grips... he couldn't get it either. he said next time i take off the caliper put it in a table vice grip and just vice it really hard, but he said i would def have to get a new bleeder valve
 
When you try it next, make sure the vise grip is clamped on real solid then give the handle of the vise grip a firm solid hit in loosening direction with a light hammer. This way will almost always break it loose.
If you try twisting the screw by pushing on the grips, the screw just might break. The impact of hitting with a hammer is what breaks it loose.
 
Take you buddy's advice and leave it alone until you have a problem. It is possible to crack the calliper if the bleed screw is corroded into the housing of the calliper. Just remember you have an old calliper with new pads, not a new brake system.
 
WHOOO
Didnt you show a picture with the caliper off in your hand?
How did you bleed the brakes with a bleeder that does not open?That is absolutly nessecary if it was off the line.
I just had a similer problem with my 83 in that the pistons did not push in as smoothly as I would have liked.I spent $25.00 on a kit and 5 minutes on the bench and rebuilt it.It is just a matter of cleaning and replacing a couple o-rings.
 

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