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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=117714#p117714:1mc84xru said:
backlander » Tue May 13, 2014 11:10 am[/url]":1mc84xru]
If your going to rebuild the pump Gerry, try to pick up a metal impeller pump, I was going to rebuild this bake lite one until about five minutes ago. I noticed a very slight looseness of the impeller on the shaft and closer, I mean real close inspection revealed why. Barely visible hairline cracks. View attachment 1
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Good to know.
That is probably why Honda went to metal, at least it makes sense.
 
While working on the front end prepping for paint, I wanted to also polish the forks. While everything is off the front end, I thought I would check the fork oil. It was changed in 2008 when we first restored the bike so it shouldn't have been too bad. WRONG!!!

Black as tar! :shock: It was brand new ATF when it went in! Glad I decided to check. Drained both completely, added 3oz ATF, swished back and forth and drained again. Added 9.8 oz ATF to each fork. (Oh, BTW, when you have a fork tube laying horizontal and you add ATF via the drain hole at the bottom and get about 6oz of ATF in, it will drain out the top as fast as you add it to the bottom........) :Awe:

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I also spent some time checking items on the front end in preparation to add the new headlight and turn signals. You remember that post I made a few posts back about taking the top of the triple tree off to add the headlight brackets? It is the only way to do it!! (Unless you try to do it like I did last time and pull the forks and shove the brackets into the triple tree and try to shove the forks back up....do not try this.....it is the stupid way to do it.) :cheeky:

Turns out, when you do it the right way and pull the top of the triple tree, the gaskets and seals slide right in! BUT, the top of the tree won't go back down???? You have to tighten the nut on the tree to set the bracket gaskets and then pull the nut, add the washer and then do a final tightening. This process squishes the seals to make a watertight connection for the brackets. There is no way you could do this correctly without removing the top of the tree!
 
ENGINE IS BACK IN!!!!! :party: :yahoo: :yes:

Last night I installed the new to me turn signals, tested the new to me headlight, then tested all of the electrical connections before dropping the engine in. Today I got the front tire changed and re-installed the front end plus brakes. Finished the centerstand greasing and cotter pins, same with the rear brake pedal and it came time to drop the engine in.

Could have really used my Team ( :cheeky: ), but dropped it in myself. Working with just a car jack is a pain when you are by yourself, but a block here and there and it goes in. Re-install the newly repainted battery box and battery. Finally changed out the starter solenoid/bone fuse to the new style blade fuse with a new solenoid (still going to carry my old one with because it is still in good shape and the new one is from China).

Got a few more things hooked, dielectric grease for the back of all of the connectors and thought I would check the neutral light since I cleaned up the whole front end when I replaced the water pump.

:shock: No light...as a matter of fact.....none of the lights are working correctly! :rant: :head bang: Just checked them all last night!!!!! :whip:
 
Pulling my hair out trying to figure out what is different????? Checked the turn signal and headlight wiring - good, stator not connected yet, pull the engine wiring connections, still no lights except low oil pressure. I am stumped!! :whip:

Was it the dielelctric grease??????? I was pretty sure that dielectric grease was non-conducting? Start cleaning out the backs of the connectors. ( :head bang: )

Test again.....nope. It is weird, the left turn signal and lights blink once when I turn on the left turn signal, but no neutral light or right turn signal. Take ALL of the connectors apart and reconnect one by one..................STILL NO LIGHTS!!!! :rant: :head bang: :cheeky:


I can't believe this!!!! The ignition switch isn't the issue because it is providing power when the left turn signal comes on, and that is only if I hold the turn signal switch WAY past left like it is making a ground through the switch.

Looks like the turn signal assembly and switch might have to come off to be opened and cleaned (or replaced????) :rant: :whip: :cheeky:

Getting dark......put the bike back into the garage (HEY, It's a LOT heavier with that engine back in there!) :hihihi:
 
Bike is in for the night and I start washing up.....still stumped and disappointed. :crying:




I keep thinking that it seems like the turn signal and lights are grounding through the turn signal switch when I hold it over. Almost like there is no ground at all? Re-check the battery wire......good, battery voltage......Great.......not the problem. :cheeky:


All I did was install the engine!! INSTALLED THE ENGINE!!!! OF COURSE!!!! WHAT A DUMMY I AM!!!!!! :Doh2: :whip:

When installing the engine, I had to install the radiator heat shield. To do that I had to move the ignition ground wire out of the way so that I didn't cut it while slipping the engine. You know the wire,........that little green one that attaches at the coils.....well my friends THAT WIRE GROUNDS EVERYTHING!!!!

Reconnected the wire and VOILA!!! LIGHTS!!! LIGHTS!!!!! TURN SIGNAL!!!! NEUTRAL LIGHT!!!!!



I am back in business!! :party: (Lesson Learned on this one let me tell ya!!) :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:
 
Electrical work completed for the lighting and charging system. Ordered some new bullet connectors and a new three wire connector for the stator connection from Vintage Connections.

https://vintageconnections.com/

These connectors are great! I decided that I could not cut my stator wires anymore to pull the engine. (Go figure....I have cut them three times and they are STILL too short! :hihihi: )

I cleaned up the wires, installed the new blades for the connectors which are both crimped and soldered. Reconnect and then back filled the connectors with dielectric grease.

For the new to me turn signals, there was not any chafing protection on the three wires, so I cut to length shrink wrap and they are now protected.

Tested everything and all is working great! (except the stator...engine not ready to run yet).
 
On the radiator fan, the screws that hold the fan motor to the frame have rubber bushings. (Or should I say...they used to have rubber bushings!) The rubber dried out and disappeared during disassembly. Check Honda for new rubber bushings and I almost fell over! :shock: :swoon: Average price....$27 a piece!!!


Head over to Home Depot and found some tapered plumbing bushings. Box of 10 for $.99!

I think I saved enough money to take my Wife out to dinner twice!! (That is, if I had the money in the first place. :hihihi: )
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=122673#p122673:3bya0u81 said:
brianinpa » Wed Jun 25, 2014 9:50 am[/url]":3bya0u81]
Who are you kidding Gerry! You are just going to take that money you saved and put it right back into the bike and never take the wife out to dinner... :smilie_happy:
Shhhhh.......... :smilie_happy:
 
Making slow careful progress. My Hondaline trunk broke a piece of the ABS off right above the lock mechanism. ABS cement, and it seems to feel pretty solid.

Took out my spare lawn mower gas tank and fed gas to the carbs off the bike to check for leaks into the intakes and to be sure the floats and needles are working. :shock:

GAS LEAKING!! But not where I expected! It seems to be leaking from the #2 carb to plenum underneath!! :whip: :rant: :cheeky:

Step away, and no one gets hurt..............this was not on the list!! I was only intending to check the float levels!! :whip: :doh:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=122841#p122841:3tvbimd4 said:
backlander » Thu Jun 26, 2014 1:07 pm[/url]":3tvbimd4]
Single carb, did I hear someone mumbling, single carb ?
:rant: :head bang: Not in the budget!!! :crying:
 
Despite the carb issue, here are some pics of my nice new stator connector! :yes:

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New to me turn signals and headlight are finished!

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To help protect the turn signal wires, I added some heat shrink tubing. I assume there was most likely some sort of chafing protection before.

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