Bertha's Single Carb Conversion Chapter Deaux Plus a major transplant revival

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I did the air idle fastest rpm thing, and it is dialed in pretty nice. I have one more noticeable vacuum leak. And true to me, I caused it. Yea, got over excited I guess. I will start another thread, its repairable.

But I am going to start a new thread, this one has been a good one, and you have no idea how happy I am to FINALLY have a running GL motor and chassis. The three gauge has been burned in my psychie since I was little, and this thing is FAST. I have a bog down at roughly 3500 rpm, but when you get the pump into it, it LIGHTS up.

Yea, I looked up at 95 cause these things get a little dodgy at high speeds, but I know from winding out, I did the ton.

So thank you Joe Drum, Dan, Brian, 83Wing, weightlifter, and several others like canuck, this is the best the bike has ever run. I can feel that the bike wants to live, and is waking up. She showed me that high saddled hauling a$$ truck on a light rail take off tonight. Have that flat spot to tune out, and this other issue to handle, and that will be that.

Believe me, I have been every where else on the bike. Is summary

Motor transplant
Carb Conversion (Twice)
Timing (Three times)
New timing belts
Radiator replaced (very fresh new OEM part used for only one season prior)
New Coolant Hoses
New Tires (Kenda Challenger's) Oversized Front tire mounted with Dyna Beads
New Brake Pads Front and Rear
Refurbished Master Cylinder with DOT4 Brake Fluid Conversion
Refurbished Calipers Front and Rear
Vetter Bag Removal
Rewiring of ignition and accessory circuit
Cleaning and dielectric greasing of major connector and ground points
Replaced Battery for 280 CCA Dry Cell Battery (Smaller and Lighter than Orig SDpec battery but has more amperage)
Removal of faulty electronics and alarm systems
Seafoam and Marvels Mystery Oil System Flushes
Control and Cable Cleaning and Service
Deep Cleaning and Frame and Subframe Components including Electronics Shell and Fuel Tank
Suspension Adjustment Rear
Fork Oil Flush and Spring Boost for Vetter Fairing
Repair of Leaking Fork Soils with SealMate tool.
Wiring Harness Cleaning, Patching and Repair for faulty grounds and damaged connectors
Restructuring of electrical systems located in the headlight bowl mounted on OEM Headlight Leaves behind the Vetter Fairing
Removal of excessive chrome tail related items
Removal of CB Antenna and Wiring
Removal of Faulty Cycle Sound shell and dfunct radio

It has been a long process since May.

Could not have done it without you guys and your valuable data.
 
Oh and the throttle motion is sticky on take off. I need to releive some spring pressure so its not so jerky on take off. I was thinking the Uni Link might give me a better rolling motion? The throttle range is really short compared to stock, and if you open this thing up it will jerk.

Or is there a way I can release throttle spring tension?
 
And yes, its rich down low, top side is real good, real good...4000 and up its gone baby gone.

Intital take off is good but needs to be smooter. More throw inthe throttle or less tension onthe return spring.

It holds speed well, 55 is nice, but its more free flowing past 65./ When you lightly open it up, it dogs down, and then picks up after 3 or 4 seconds.

You get that secondary moving on the throttle and it starts to straighten out. When the accelerator pump kicks in, it will flat out move....

SO I will be looking over jetting and ordering accordingly when I have cash.
 
might want to lengthen distance from the carb shaft to the cable. Much of the jetting can be done with drills and the idle issue probably just needs more air. Great work! You'll be one happy oldwing owner when all of the kinks are worked out.
 
Here is the way she sounds after I did the "Fastest Idle" tuning technique that Dan told me about. It is idling better, and am guessing it helped overall.

[video]https://youtu.be/dQ5JT2wEw0Q[/video]

I have to get the stripped screw fixed next. I was going to start a new thread, but the job is not over yet. The screw is the one closest to the plugs on Cylinder 3. I was tightening them down with the torque wrench and it did not click, it just started to turn easy. I am sure we all know that sickening feeling. and it will not pinch the new gasket material so even though its absolutely purring now, its the flat spot on passing acceleration.

Than can I get some recommendations on how to change the jetting. I am at 1000 feet above sea level. I think I will read over the other thread I was watching earlier this week. I can start there, and maybe go one step less since his is an 1100 and mine is the 1000 cc motor.

So is this something I should take to a pro to get drilled and tapped. I dont have taps. I know the next largest size I can get is an M10 at 1.25 pitch, but there has to be something smaller. And I am nervous about drilling into the head. I got too excited and went to fast with the torque wrench.
 
might want to lengthen distance from the carb shaft to the cable. Much of the jetting can be done with drills and the idle issue probably just needs more air. Great work! You'll be one happy oldwing owner when all of the kinks are worked out.
Click to expand...

To do that I need to shorten the cable housing using the middle adjuster correct, than I can move the la bracket back or adjust the throttle accordingly. Okay, sounds like and attempt to make in the morning as i will be going over the cooling system. Oh, I figured out what was dripping from the motor, it was not coolant, thank heavens. I did everything right on that one, even sealed the threads.

Anyway, it was the pooled up WD-40 that was left over from the vacuum testing. I had to get that cleaned up as it was pooling and running down the timing cover gasket, and the holes in the head. I was thinking I had to get at the thermostat housing again, and I Do not.

So tomorrow, I get to something FUN, I am going to mount the saddle bags, but I need to get two cans of spray paint to finish that job, the old style bags are going on. They are older ABS Bates Model slimline saddlebags that were put on Hondas before Vetters stuff took off like it did. They match the curved faring better. BUT, the are old ABS, and I did clean them, but they are dull and rough, and something splattered them with orange paint. So I am going to spray paint those in black gloss before they go on for good.
 
leave the springs alone on the carb linkage ... they are there for a reason ... i dont agree one can come off to lighten pull without causing lack of pressure on throttle plates ... when i had the 32-32 dft on hooch it was missing a spring and the secondary throttle plate would get suck open a bit and that was cause a lack of return to idle after revving up the motor in higher rpm ... i found a spring and put on it ...

on hooch i have less time and monay on linkage hook up than anyone ....by using the weber linkage that i hammered flat ..in other words took out the horse bend along with cutting off the choke linkage an screw part ... fliped it over so linkage pin pointed outwards and hooked cable to that with eyelet connector ....i said all that for this ...it gave a very long pull ...it made torque require to operate it feather like but still return great .... and it took the jerky throttle action out of play .. and it actually the beast pull ive ever had on a bike .....personally i dont think buying a linkage set up is a potent move on its operation ... but thats me
 
Have you looked at a us standard size in between the two metrics.. I know it might change the tool size to remove.. but I do what I can do to try and keep it close in looks..
 
I thought about it, but I really need to put torque on it, so I am thinking heli coild will be best. But I think I see what you are saying drill it Standard and tap it with a size between M8 and M10. Hmmm....might work, I dont care about different size bolts, welcome to the world of "customs" on that...lol
 
The m8 is approximately 5/16... almost a good fit... so 3/8 should be next step up from there... not sure off top of my head if 7/16 is below or above 10mm... think it may be larger .... also if you check suppliers you could get a m9 bolt.. not real popular but would be in the step up range it is also nearly an 11/32 match... just to give you ideas of size choices...
 
Yea, either way I think I am going to defer to Chuck the Machinist on this one, drilling into the head makes me nervous as heck, if I can helicoil at the same bore, I think I can handle that
 

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