canuckxxxx's Single carb manifold build

[Ansimp]

Sounds like a good plan. opcorn: opcorn:

 

[dan filipi]

Ansimp » Tue Nov 04, 2014 12:53 pm[/url]":2fvt18rn]
Sounds like a good plan. opcorn: opcorn:

Yes!

 

[joedrum]

sounds good and a lot like something i am doing ... but not real close to the same ... good plan...

 

[canuckxxxx]

Don't eat that popcorn too fast...I haven't even started taking it apart yet. Lots of nonGW stuff going on right now. :head bang:

Will take the old manifold and carb off tomorrow morning. :builder:

 

[canuckxxxx]

Reporting in: Took the single carb and manifold off my '82 this morning. Here are some pics.

Top of engine is now bare. Still need to put a plug in the threaded hole at the back of my cooling centre thing.

image

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 6, 2014

Didn't take the coolant return plate out of the pump suction but just closed the valve in the return line.

image

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 6, 2014

Not single carb related by found a pool of engine oil against the inlet valve of #4 cylinder. Valve stem seals leaking. How bad is this?

image

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 6, 2014

Took one of the grab rail manifolds off and looked at the inside of the fuel hose. It looks just like the day I bought it...no deterioration at all.

Brian

 

[dan filipi]

Looks like a lot of oil but nothing I'd be very concerned with if it doesn't use oil while running or fouling the spark plug.

 

[canuckxxxx]

Here is something that you can relate to Dan, since you are an sparky. Here is my 3/4" knockout cutter inside a 1" copper coupling. So the OD of the cutter looks to be very close to the OD of 1" copper pipe...maybe just a bit smaller. Which is good because, if I make the holes for the runner in the end cap with this KO cutter maybe I can rig something up to force the pipe into the hole for a very tight fit. If I cut the pipe with a pipe cutter then the end will be slightly small so might work. Will make for nice braze or solder joint.

knockout cutter in coupling

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 6, 2014

Still haven't bought any copper stuff yet...will try and find a 1 1/2" end cap and some 1" pipe soon. The reason I say 1 1/2" is because the round hole at the bottom of the 2 to 1 adapter is 1 5/8" which is the OD of 1 1/2" copper pipe. So the ID of the end cap should be 1 5/8". Will check before I buy. I thought about a 2" end cap but the ID would be 2 1/8" and the distance between the inside of the bolt slots in the 2 to 1 is only 2 3/16" so might be hard to seal.

Brian

 

[canuckxxxx]

OK, I got some 1" copper pipe, some 45º and 90º elbows and a 2" end cap. I also bought a 3" x 12" x 1/4" piece of brass. I used my hole saws to make 4 doughnuts for the flanges for the heads and a square flange for the bottom of the 2 to 1 adapter. Still have to get channels machined into the bottom of the head doughnut for the OEM O-rings.

I know I said I was going to run the runners straight into the plenum from the heads but I ruined one end cap trying to cut the holes at an angle to the end cap surface so I decided to make holes square to the surface which is easier. Also I Home Depot does not have long radius 1" elbows so I went with the standard elbows.

Anyways I used my trusty layout board to set the whole thing up. Still need to trim the ends of the pipes inside the plenum and then solder or braze the whole thing together. :builder:

Head flange

IMG-20141109-02246

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 9, 2014

Plenum made from 2" end cap

IMG-20141107-02239

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 9, 2014

Using same flange plates that were on my grab rail manifold

IMG-20141110-02250

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 10, 2014

Manifold waiting for solder

IMG-20141110-02248

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 10, 2014

With 2 to 1 adapter

IMG-20141110-02251

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 10, 2014

 

[dan filipi]

I like it!

 

[slabghost]

Ohhhh! That'll look so nice shined up with Brasso!

 

[canuckxxxx]

It'll look like a steam powered GW :smilie_happy:

 

[canuckxxxx]

It'll look like a steam powered GW :smilie_happy:

 

[dan filipi]

slabghost » Mon Nov 10, 2014 4:49 pm[/url]":ssr55oza]
Ohhhh! That'll look so nice shined up with Brasso!

Yes.
Do a nice neat solder job then clear coat it!

 

[Ansimp]

+1 :good: :clapping:

 

[joedrum]

i think it it looks good ...lots of nice work brian .... if it was me id would be seeing if i could mount it on the motor all put together intake horns bolted snug ...then solder it up ... no better jig than where it goes

 

[esturdivant]

You planning on soldering with a propane/mapp bottle? Or a proper oxy setup? I'll be watching!!

 

[dan filipi]

This is a fun project and I'm very interested to see how it runs because I've been wanting to build one from copper and brass, my 2 favorite metals.

 

[canuckxxxx]

esturdivant » Mon Nov 10, 2014 7:19 pm[/url]":26ywgavo]
You planning on soldering with a propane/mapp bottle? Or a proper oxy setup? I'll be watching!!

I was planning on using propane torch and low temp solder. ..like plumbers do. I soldered the ruined end cap onto a piece of scrap pipe and it is pretty strong.

 

[canuckxxxx]

dan filipi » Mon Nov 10, 2014 5:53 pm[/url]":cdz5n5vd]

slabghost » Mon Nov 10, 2014 4:49 pm[/url]":cdz5n5vd]
Ohhhh! That'll look so nice shined up with Brasso!

Yes.
Do a nice neat solder job then clear coat it!

I don't know if a nice neat solder job is in the cards Dan. I tend to suck at soldering.

 

[canuckxxxx]

joedrum » Mon Nov 10, 2014 7:06 pm[/url]":23r65gui]
i think it it looks good ...lots of nice work brian .... if it was me id would be seeing if i could mount it on the motor all put together intake horns bolted snug ...then solder it up ... no better jig than where it goes

Good idea Joe. I can partially solder it together on the bench, like the centre section and the pipes coming out from it then solder the rest of the runners on the engine.