canuckxxxx's Single carb manifold build

[Ansimp]

By the time you have finished you will be an expert at soldering. Just remember plenty of flux/ soldering fluid and let the heat draw the solder into the joints and they will all be strong, neat and sealed. :yes:

 

[esturdivant]

Curious to see if the end-cap plenum gets real cold with the weber carb...

 

[canuckxxxx]

esturdivant » Mon Nov 10, 2014 8:49 pm[/url]"f411ci2]
Curious to see if the end-cap plenum gets real cold with the weber carb...

I am hoping that the copper will conduct enough heat from the head to keep the plenum warm...we will see. :headscratch: :heat:

 

[slabghost]

I think it will stay warm if the carb is dialed in.

 

[canuckxxxx]

The big question that I am looking forward to the answer to is how the much smaller ID copper pipes will perform. The ID of the 1 1/4" grab rails that had used is 30mm, the 1" copper pipe has an ID of 26.8mm. That translates into a 20% smaller cross-sectional area.

Dan has been successful using 1" EMT runners which have the same ID as my copper and 1" PVC runners have been used with success and they have about 1mm smaller ID than copper. So it should be OK.

But just looking at it, the copper looks tiny. :shock: :beg:

Brian

IMG-20141111-02253

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 11, 2014

 

[joedrum]

well there is no doubt i feel the other way ...im going 1 1/2" OD grab bars id say 1 7/16" ID ... on my work i see no need to go smaller.....on my builds i am doing witch are hooched out 1200s

 

[dan filipi]

I think a major difference here Brian between this build and mine is mine dump straight in from the plenum to the heads.
There is some interruption in the flow after it enters the head port but that's minimal.
Add to that the type 4 and adaptor add volume.

Yours is much prettier that's for sure.

 

[canuckxxxx]

OK this morning I soldered together the centre section of the manifold; the plenum and the first runners out including the 45º elbows. Also soldered on the 2 to 1 adapter flange. I was so worried about doing the soldering I got up at 4:30 AM and got myself organized. The picture is after a lot of filing and sanding to clean up my crappy solder job. Big relief getting this soldering done. :heat:

soldered 1

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 12, 2014

I then put the manifold on the bike to see how every thing would line up including putting the carb on. No clearance issues. In fact the bottom of the plenum is about 1/2" above anything in the centre so I will shorten the vertical runner pieces that come up from the head to bring the plenum down to just above the centre section. :good:

manifold on bike 3

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 12, 2014

manifold on bike 1

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 12, 2014

manifold on bike 2

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 12, 2014

There is a problem with the 2 to 1 on top of the plenum flange: the inside of the elongated bolt holes on the 2 to 1 protrude into the inside edge of the plenum opening so would leak air big time. I will have to make a 1/8" plate to go between the adapter and the plenum flange with a gasket between both spaces.

2 to 1 on plenum air leak

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 12, 2014

:head bang:

 

[dan filipi]

I had to make an adaptor too but should have made it much thicker.
I used 1/8" aluminum and flat head machine screws. Not much metal left once the screw head hole is recessed so the screw head sits flat.

 

[canuckxxxx]

dan filipi » Wed Nov 12, 2014 10:28 am[/url]":2rwi0scs]
I had to make an adaptor too but should have made it much thicker.
I used 1/8" aluminum and flat head machine screws. Not much metal left once the screw head hole is recessed so the screw head sits flat.

Thanks for the tip...maybe I could go thicker so it would seal better and give my plenum a bit more volume. :headscratch:

 

[joedrum]

looks nice brian

 

[Ansimp]

joedrum » Thu Nov 13, 2014 5:30 am[/url]":17x0spgv]
looks nice brian

+1 :good:

 

[canuckxxxx]

...waiting for oring grooves to be cut... :whistling: :whistling:

 

[joedrum]

canuckxxxx » Thu Feb 06, 2014 7:09 pm[/url]":2o5anrdy]
Well I finally got my parts back from the welder. It took a while but he did a great job.

The plenum closed in with 3/8" NPT hubs.

coolant chamber 2 welded

• canuckxxxx
• Feb 6, 2014

coolant chamber 1 welded

• canuckxxxx
• Feb 6, 2014

The spacer plate with a 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD fitting to return the coolant to the pump suction

return plate 1 welded

• canuckxxxx
• Feb 6, 2014

So I will go to work putting it all together and getting it running again. I haven't bought any barbed fittings or hose yet because I want to put the manifold on the bike and see how things line up first.

Brian

the best ive seen :mrgreen:

 

[canuckxxxx]

Well I got my brass doughnuts back from the machinist who cut channels in them for OE style Orings.

soldered 3

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 18, 2014

So I went ahead and soldered all the pipes and fittings together with the last soldering done with the runners mounted on the bike. :builder:

soldered 2

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 18, 2014

soldered 4

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 18, 2014

Next I want to rig up a way of doing a vacuum leak test on the bench. :headscratch:

Brian

 

[slabghost]

Rubber plugs and one plate with a nipple to induce the vacuum. Or just plates with some sort of sealant and a valve. Shouldn't be much chance of leaks being soldered. Just as telling to use pressure though.

 

[dan filipi]

slabghost » Tue Nov 18, 2014 7:46 pm[/url]":39upynhq]
Rubber plugs and one plate with a nipple to induce the vacuum. Or just plates with some sort of sealant and a valve. Shouldn't be much chance of leaks being soldered. Just as telling to use pressure though.

Same I was thinking using a shop vacuum.
Spray water on the fittings and using either vacuum suction or pressure should show any leaks.

 

[canuckxxxx]

slabghost » Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:46 pm[/url]":hrgit0ns]
Rubber plugs and one plate with a nipple to induce the vacuum. Or just plates with some sort of sealant and a valve. Shouldn't be much chance of leaks being soldered. Just as telling to use pressure though.

I did something similar: to seal the ends of the runners, where the flanges are that go on the heads, I made pieces of lexan that I put the flanges with Orings onto and clamped them down. So the Orings should push down onto the smooth lexan and seal I figured. At the plenum I took another piece of lexan with a hole in it and stuck it onto the plenum flange with grease.

vacuum leak test 4

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 18, 2014

vacuum leak test 3

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 18, 2014

Then I used my vacuum hand pump with a suction cup attachment at the end and tried to pump up a vacuum. But it didn't work...vacuum never went up. :Awe: :head bang: Do you think a vacuum pump like mine is capable of pumping all the air out of the manifold. Maybe the pump needs some vacuum to work...I don't know. Or maybe I have a big leak.

vacuum leak test 2

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 18, 2014

vacuum leak test 1

• canuckxxxx
• Nov 18, 2014

Maybe a pressure test would work. At least with a pressure test, I could check for leaks with soapy water.

Brian

 

[slabghost]

The hand squeeze vacuum pumps will work but that's a lot of volume to pump down and can take a lot of work. Which is why I suggested pressure. Even a bicycle pump will pressurize it faster than the vacuum pump will draw it down. A shop vac as Dan suggested should suffice too.

 

[Ansimp]

slabghost » Wed Nov 19, 2014 2:16 pm[/url]":1jw6nu46]
The hand squeeze vacuum pumps will work but that's a lot of volume to pump down and can take a lot of work. Which is why I suggested pressure. Even a bicycle pump will pressurize it faster than the vacuum pump will draw it down. A shop vac as Dan suggested should suffice too.

I like the bicycle pump idea to pressurise the manifold and I would use soapy water in a spray bottle to find any leaks :good: