Carb Fustration ... Wondering what to do

[bronko37]

83gl1200 » Wed Sep 10, 2014 3:06 pm[/url]":2rvio8mv]
I was in the same boat and people told me to rebuild my carbs with nothing less than a randakk kit. After finding out that was $300 I decided to put on a PVC manifold and vw carb which was a lot cheaper than rebuilding those carbs, then sold my OEM carb rack and came out getting more $ for my old carbs than the diy cheap used single conversion cost me.
In the future I plan to upgrade to a weber single carb for more top end, but this will do for now. I'm happy not having to deal with 4 carbs again or syncing and tuning them. Also happy that when I need to rebuild one of the singles a full rebuild kit only costs $30 or less and will be much much easier.

I dunno where u been shoppin but my randakk kit was about half of what you are saying the price is. That was with the step by step DVD where he walks you through how to do it. Give me $300 and ill do it for ya and put $150 in my pocket. That being said, i know there are a lot of guys that have done successful single carb conversions and love it. Part of that joy is tearing it apart and adjusting to get it just right. Personally i saw no reason to re invent the wheel and i dont feel that i can do a better job than a team of Japaneese engineers so i just rebuilt the stock. Either option you decide to go with is going to take time, patients, and careful execution to get it right.

 

[dan filipi]

I guess it could be said that we re-invent the wheel here :smilie_happy:

When I got a Randakk several years ago it was around $200 without the DVD.
Has the price gone down?

mespock, I think if your float(s) are hanging up and causing it to flood it could appear that there is a leaking seal or just one of the float bowl gaskets could be leaking.

 

[mespock]

dan filipi » Fri Sep 12, 2014 4:18 pm[/url]":1okk94nk]
I guess it could be said that we re-invent the wheel here :smilie_happy:

When I got a Randakk several years ago it was around $200 without the DVD.
Has the price gone down?

mespock, I think if your float(s) are hanging up and causing it to flood it could appear that there is a leaking seal or just one of the float bowl gaskets could be leaking.

I am thinking that also. I just never worked on the Goldwing Carbs. My carbs on my 1200 have been fantastic and never had an issue.

I have had this GL1000 rack off and I did give it a good cleaning. At the time I didn't have the extra cash to rebuild the set. I cleaned them well put them back on and the bike ran fantastic until. I am currently working getting my 1200's rear brake to get pressure. I am no longer getting any air bubbles and the master cylinder seems to be working good. It is taking up the space that I need to put my 1000 so I can start pulling the carbs. I only like one project at a time. But I am seeking knowledge so when I am able to pull the carbs I know the way I am heading.

I like the concept of having only 1 carb. Working with my 750's 4 carbs is enough of a pita. The GSXR solution has been a godsend. Would love another godsend as I like riding more than I like working on my bikes.

 

[joedrum]

:builder: :builder: :moped: :moped: riding is more fun :mrgreen:

 

[mespock]

joedrum » Sat Sep 13, 2014 6:03 am[/url]":10l6bu8a]
:builder: :builder: :moped: :moped: riding is more fun :mrgreen:

I have to agree ... was disappointed this weekend as it was the annual TWALD gathering in Boscobel and I wasn't able to show off my 78 wing what I had planned on doing.

But on another note or a thought. I repaired my air cutoff valve before I got the leak, maybe about 2 or 3 weeks before. This might sound stupid but this does not effect fuel correct? nothing there could cause leaking of fuel? Just want to double check as that would have been the only thing that I did to the carbs prior to this leak.

 

[dan filipi]

I'm not too familiar with the 1000 carbs but usually any point that's below the gas level in the bowls has a possibility leaking.

 

[mespock]

dan filipi » Sun Sep 14, 2014 9:48 am[/url]":188oijvd]
I'm not too familiar with the 1000 carbs but usually any point that's below the gas level in the bowls has a possibility leaking.

The 1000 carbs only have 1 air cut off valve and it's on the top front of the carbs. Again being a green horn at times I don't believe it would have any connection with fuel only air. But I just thought I would ask.

 

[tom foreman]

its,for the air flow to the pilot jet.if I remember right..for high air flow,to pilot jet when you downshift,it cuts it off,so no popping out of exhaust..i,ve forgot more than I know...tom :builder:

 

[mespock]

tom foreman » Sun Sep 14, 2014 10:09 am[/url]":1545ruvb]
its,for the air flow to the pilot jet.if I remember right..for high air flow,to pilot jet when you downshift,it cuts it off,so no popping out of exhaust..i,ve forgot more than I know...tom :builder:

Yup that's what I understand it to do. Just wanted to double check as it was what I last did to the carbs. Now it's just waiting for time to be able to pull them and get to work.

 

[slabghost]

Have you located the leak? Crossover tube, bowl seal, over flow tube???? Is it a static leak? Or does it leak while the bike is running? It'd be nice to know this before removing the carbs.

 

[83gl1200]

Don't forget the angle it sits at on the side stand... Just guessing these might be the cheap fix:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/75-76-77-78-79- ... 53&vxp=mtr

 

[mespock]

I haven't had time to hunt the leak. Real busy too many things going on right now. Got my 750 to play with. Things slow down in a few days.

 

[bronko37]

I would be reluctant to use any type of adhesives or sealers on the bowl gaskets to stop the leak. There are small channels that run through those gaskets that fuel needs to flow through to the idle jets in the venturi. Any type of adhesive could easily clog this passage or the jets themselves. The idea is to get all the junk out of the carb set, not add more to it, lol.

My guess on the leak is that 1, the bowl drain screws on the bottom have bad O-rings. Probably a $2 fix. Or, maybe more likely, your floats are sticking or the needle seat is gouped up so the needle cannot stop the flow of gas properly when the float rises in the bowl. This would cause gas to get pushed up into the plenum causing the leak when the bike is running. If the bike leaks when it not running its probably the bowl drain screws or possibly the bowl gaskets themselves. If it leaks when the bike is running its probably something to do with the floats and needle seats as the pump will just keep pushing gas into the carb. When that happens you need the float and needle to prevent the gas from flooding into the plenum. It has to go somewhere.

If you like you can PM me and I can ship you my Randakk video so you can see exactly what it takes to build the carbs from start to finish. This was my very first carb job in my life and I was able to do it successfully on the first try. You just have to take your time, do your research, and make sure everything is super clean. I took over a month doing mine right. This is nothing that cant be done in your garage with basic skills and tools.

Also you should be aware of the infamous jet mix up in the Clymer manuals. Randakk addresses this in the video but basically the book has the primary and secondary jets backwards.

https://randakks.com/collections/honda-g ... ombo-offer

FYI here is the link to Randakk for the rebuild. You dont need to purchase the video as well though, you can just borrow mine.

 

[mespock]

Here are my Carbs done by Pistol Pete. Nice work! Can't wait until Spring...

 

[Ansimp]

Looks like they are itching for Spring also. :good: :moped:

 

[joedrum]

i have gotten to where i dont even like the sight of stock carbs and all the work ive done on them ....i must say there a great carbs to school on ..once you get carbs for all the yrs oldwings working good and figured ...you are a carb guy ..and can deal with any kind of carbs ......

make sure your gas tank is clean ... and filter up to par .... and after carbs are installed always mix atf in your gas ... i did this on a 79 after carbs were cleaned and it went for 5 yrs with no problems ..when i took them off they were as cleaner than the day i put them on in the inside ...i was not taking them off because they were a problem ...but changing the motor to a 1200 ....atf works great to good carbs good