I finally got my carb kit from Randakk's and as I disassembled the carbs, everything looks good for re build, but the choke plate shafts are quite loose in the carb body. I don't think you should be able to see light between the shaft and body. :headscratch: On Randy's tech tips, it says not to immerse the body in carb cleaner as it damages the felts on the shafts and I am wondering if this happened on the last carb rebuild. My question is this; is there a way to repair this? Will greasing the shaft to take up clearance cause problems? Or is this normal...Throttle shafts are good. Thanks for your advice.
Carburetor choke shaft free-play
- Thread starter prairiewing81
- Start date
Help Support Classic Goldwings:
slabghost
Well-known member
Some have made their own gaskets for them. Yes that much play will let in too much air. One person I read made them out of leather. I think you can use the thick grease made for gas stove valves also. It should seal perfectly and last a very long time. However I haven't had the opportunity to try it yet.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 22,430
- Reaction score
- 258
- Location
- Van Nuys Ca.
- My Bike Models
- 1983 Interstate
2018 KLR 650
2018 BMW S1000 RR
- My Bike Logs forum link
- https://classicgoldwings.com/forums/dan-filipi.122/
I don't know of any way to fix the play and gap in them but I do know taking the choke shafts out then getting them aligned properly can be a bit tricky.
Bad felt I think is something we will be seeing more of as these carbs get worked on and age more every minute, we need to figure out a source.
I have seen felt pieces in auto carb kits so it is out there.
I would try it if we had a source.
Have checked with Randall?
If there is no simple solution I would expect it to run a bit lean sucking air though that space but I don't think all that severe and can likely be compensated by turning the pilot screws richer.
Bad felt I think is something we will be seeing more of as these carbs get worked on and age more every minute, we need to figure out a source.
I have seen felt pieces in auto carb kits so it is out there.
I would try it if we had a source.
Have checked with Randall?
If there is no simple solution I would expect it to run a bit lean sucking air though that space but I don't think all that severe and can likely be compensated by turning the pilot screws richer.
I had asked this same question about two years ago on a different GW website.
If you get into the actual physics/analysis of the airstream passing the chokeplates and the purpose they serve, as long as the plates cover as much of the throat of the carb as possible, and don't stick or bind in anyway, they are fine.... the choke shafts and plates are outside of the dynamic areas of fuel/air mixing... kind of like the wire mesh is inside the plenum over each bore... any leaks or play in the shafts will not affect the fuel/air mixtures and will introduce negligible unfiltered air into the intake airstream (this was the basis of my original inquiry on this subject)
Since all the metering jets and slides are on THE OTHER SIDE of the carburetor the choke plates and shafts are not going to affect the running of the bike. (as long as they fully open when the choke knob is pushed in)
If you are concerned that you might have too large a gap for there to be a vacuum differential to be developed on the underside of the choke plate when closed to cause more fuel to be drawn up the enrichment passages (full choke), don't be..... as long as you can freely move the plates and they don't bind up, the felt washers/shaft free play and or any discernible gaps in the plates not fully closing off the throat of the carb are of no consequence... Just pay more attention to all the stuff on the lower down parts of the carbs and make sure ALL the passages are clean, clear and fully open (I found that using dental brushes or "plaque removers" that the orthodontist gave my kids when they had braces on, or at your local CVS or other drug store in the dental hygiene aisle) was a great way to get into all the tight spots that I couldn't or wouldn't want to use anything sharp or damaging on.
Pay close attention to the float levels, as they all need to be as dead on as you can possibly make them to insure proper fuel delivery (some of the passages are fuel height dependent, not just vacuum drawn. Take your time and you will do fine and enjoy the results...
Rich
If you get into the actual physics/analysis of the airstream passing the chokeplates and the purpose they serve, as long as the plates cover as much of the throat of the carb as possible, and don't stick or bind in anyway, they are fine.... the choke shafts and plates are outside of the dynamic areas of fuel/air mixing... kind of like the wire mesh is inside the plenum over each bore... any leaks or play in the shafts will not affect the fuel/air mixtures and will introduce negligible unfiltered air into the intake airstream (this was the basis of my original inquiry on this subject)
Since all the metering jets and slides are on THE OTHER SIDE of the carburetor the choke plates and shafts are not going to affect the running of the bike. (as long as they fully open when the choke knob is pushed in)
If you are concerned that you might have too large a gap for there to be a vacuum differential to be developed on the underside of the choke plate when closed to cause more fuel to be drawn up the enrichment passages (full choke), don't be..... as long as you can freely move the plates and they don't bind up, the felt washers/shaft free play and or any discernible gaps in the plates not fully closing off the throat of the carb are of no consequence... Just pay more attention to all the stuff on the lower down parts of the carbs and make sure ALL the passages are clean, clear and fully open (I found that using dental brushes or "plaque removers" that the orthodontist gave my kids when they had braces on, or at your local CVS or other drug store in the dental hygiene aisle) was a great way to get into all the tight spots that I couldn't or wouldn't want to use anything sharp or damaging on.
Pay close attention to the float levels, as they all need to be as dead on as you can possibly make them to insure proper fuel delivery (some of the passages are fuel height dependent, not just vacuum drawn. Take your time and you will do fine and enjoy the results...
Rich
Thanks for the great info. Good to know its not too serious. Funny how they wore and not the throttle shafts.
They really didn't "wear out" they just got loose from years of heat, and vibration... it's not like they get moved around as much as the throttle shafts/plates do... the choke shafts and plates only get used at start up if the bike is cold....
Rich
Rich
